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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Gain the top of the ivy-covered pillar, then move down and right onto the face. Head up past a peg and at a ledge, go left (peg) and move up onto the left side of the ledge. Gain a crack on the left and follow it past a ledge to join and finish as for Last Call. © Rockfax

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
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High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lunar Bass

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)

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