3 pitches. Previously VS 4c, now HVS 5b due to rockfall on the first pitch

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HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs, Sub Extreme South West Sea Stacks, Lundy, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Ultimate Sea Stack

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cpoad 27 Aug, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Think the boulders have moved again at the start. The first pitch is no way 5b, more like 4c perhaps, and I'd say it's back to being a VS again. Horrendous scrammble/prussik back up the ab rope. Hand and foot holds just coming out as you use them.
βeta?
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βeta: Think the boulders have moved again at the start. The first pitch is no way 5b, more like 4c perhaps, and I'd say it's back to being a VS again. Horrendous scrammble/prussik back up the ab rope. Hand and foot holds just coming out as you use them.
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User Date Style Notes & Partners
Julesthe1st 26 Aug AltLd O/S Our first sea stack. Low tide at 8.30am so an early start needed (with a hangover). Still didn't start climbing until the tide was coming back in. This made things a tad urgent. Some good climbing (at least the way we did it) and the abseil from the summit really wild. Though we had no time to remove the tat cluster at the top (due to encroaching tide). The ascent back up the cliff very much part of the experience.
Our first sea stack. Low tide at 8.30am so an early start needed (with a hangover). Still didn't start climbing until the tide was coming back in. This made things a tad urgent. Some good climbing (at least the way we did it) and the abseil from the summit really wild. Though we had no time to remove the tat cluster at the top (due to encroaching tide). The ascent back up the cliff very much part of the experience.
Rollo 21 Aug AltLd O/S Mike did P1 and 3 I did P2. The groove at the start is probs 5a, needs small protection. You can scramble round the back if you want to bring the overall down to 4c which must be for the top pitch which is excellent. We added to the tat disaster at the top as we couldn’t work out what was good. Probably needs sorting out ...... Good fun mind!
Mike did P1 and 3 I did P2. The groove at the start is probs 5a, needs small protection. You can scramble round the back if you want to bring the overall down to 4c which must be for the top pitch which is excellent. We added to the tat disaster at the top as we couldn’t work out what was good. Probably needs sorting out ...... Good fun mind!
mike.moss 21 Aug AltLd O/S P1&3 - Mike, P2 - Roly
with Rollo
P1&3 - Mike, P2 - Roly
with Rollo
Jonathan Hall 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd P3
with Hoyes
P3
with Hoyes
LDJ 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd Scrambled to start of 2nd pitch. VS 4c
with Tilt
Scrambled to start of 2nd pitch. VS 4c
with Tilt
Tilt 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd
with LDJ
with LDJ
Hidden 2 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 29 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
mapperley samurai 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P3. Hard(ish) move(s) on first pitch soon over. Last pitch a nice airy finish. Not convinced HVS/5B.
with Blake
Lead P3. Hard(ish) move(s) on first pitch soon over. Last pitch a nice airy finish. Not convinced HVS/5B.
with Blake
cpoad 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Think the boulders have moved again at the start. The first pitch is no way 5b, more like 4c perhaps, and I'd say it's back to being a VS again. Horrendous scrammble/prussik back up the ab rope. Hand and foot holds just coming out as you use them.
Think the boulders have moved again at the start. The first pitch is no way 5b, more like 4c perhaps, and I'd say it's back to being a VS again. Horrendous scrammble/prussik back up the ab rope. Hand and foot holds just coming out as you use them.
Tom.Priestley 30 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S In 2 pitches, cool route
In 2 pitches, cool route
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 Lead
petecallaghan 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Amazing adventure. We got the tide times right: started 3 hours before dead low. Initially intended to retreat via Hobs Lane, but it looked horrific so we opted for Fifth Appendage instead. This turned out to be wet, and the off-route moves were extremely challenging: some of the hardest moves I've made on trad, made spicier by Scott's warning that the belay was not good so 'dont fall off'
with Borden
Amazing adventure. We got the tide times right: started 3 hours before dead low. Initially intended to retreat via Hobs Lane, but it looked horrific so we opted for Fifth Appendage instead. This turned out to be wet, and the off-route moves were extremely challenging: some of the hardest moves I've made on trad, made spicier by Scott's warning that the belay was not good so 'dont fall off'
with Borden
Borden 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Great adventure chasing the tides- exited via 'Fifth Appendage'
Great adventure chasing the tides- exited via 'Fifth Appendage'
Georgie25 31 Aug, 2016 2nd With Keith, abbed into beach fine, climbed sea stack fine, abbed off pinnacle ok, pulled rope, wouldn't come! Keith had to prussick up to retrieve ropes whilst I scrambled up the loose chossy slope to avoid incoming tide, got out fine, what an adventure, brilliant!
With Keith, abbed into beach fine, climbed sea stack fine, abbed off pinnacle ok, pulled rope, wouldn't come! Keith had to prussick up to retrieve ropes whilst I scrambled up the loose chossy slope to avoid incoming tide, got out fine, what an adventure, brilliant!
Keith Swainson 31 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Lead all pitches to race tide.... Jammed rope and a 45m prussick later, still dry! Type 2 fun, great adventure climbing.
with Georgie
Lead all pitches to race tide.... Jammed rope and a 45m prussick later, still dry! Type 2 fun, great adventure climbing.
with Georgie
Stanners 24 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S (p2 and p3 only, avoided P1) not great but had to be done! DEATH descent if ab rope not used ! no idea how we survived. Moronic to deter lower grade climbers from the adventure by giving it HVS 5b..just scramble around the side and avoid the first pitch giving VS 4c.
(p2 and p3 only, avoided P1) not great but had to be done! DEATH descent if ab rope not used ! no idea how we survived. Moronic to deter lower grade climbers from the adventure by giving it HVS 5b..just scramble around the side and avoid the first pitch giving VS 4c.
Geoffers 18 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tim
with Tim
cymjt 16 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S P3. Grades, lines, pitches, who knows if they're right. It's a good summit though!
with Chris Sutton
P3. Grades, lines, pitches, who knows if they're right. It's a good summit though!
with Chris Sutton
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S An outstanding adventure! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/lundy-lessons-in-adventure.html
with Emma, Fred
An outstanding adventure! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/lundy-lessons-in-adventure.html
with Emma, Fred
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden 22 Aug, 2014 -
Big Lee 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Drama on the abseil descent. Anna went first but I was wearing the rack. We had a 70m rope but the ab was closer to 90m. Fortunately Anna manged to setup some intermediate nut anchors after I lowered some gear to her on a half rope. I strung pitches 1 & 2 together. Wasn't totally clear about where this route went based on the vague CC description. Started via the V-shaped groove with the slim column forming it's right-hand side. Anna led the top pitch up the face.
with annak
Drama on the abseil descent. Anna went first but I was wearing the rack. We had a 70m rope but the ab was closer to 90m. Fortunately Anna manged to setup some intermediate nut anchors after I lowered some gear to her on a half rope. I strung pitches 1 & 2 together. Wasn't totally clear about where this route went based on the vague CC description. Started via the V-shaped groove with the slim column forming it's right-hand side. Anna led the top pitch up the face.
with annak
annak 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
victim of mathematics 19 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Perhaps the boulders at the start have moved again, as it would currently be easy to scramble up to the start of P2, and the right-most groove is 4b, not 5b. Led this and P3. P2 was worrryingly loose (P1 of White Riot might make a better alternative) and P3 was stout for VS, but a great experience.
Perhaps the boulders at the start have moved again, as it would currently be easy to scramble up to the start of P2, and the right-most groove is 4b, not 5b. Led this and P3. P2 was worrryingly loose (P1 of White Riot might make a better alternative) and P3 was stout for VS, but a great experience.
crossdressingrodney 19 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S A bit crappy except for the top pitch, which felt HVS to me (on second).
A bit crappy except for the top pitch, which felt HVS to me (on second).
Nick Russell 16 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S The first pitch (as described in 2008 CC guide) is tricky, but not 5b. More like a 5a boulder problem up a groove, protected by a small wire. An awesome route, definitely worth 3 stars!
with Emily
The first pitch (as described in 2008 CC guide) is tricky, but not 5b. More like a 5a boulder problem up a groove, protected by a small wire. An awesome route, definitely worth 3 stars!
with Emily
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
greedo ?Aug, 2012 AltLd Climbed when still Vs
with Guy reid
Climbed when still Vs
with Guy reid
Headjamm 1 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S First pitch climbed White Riot followed by second pitch Devils Chimney.
with Geoffers
First pitch climbed White Riot followed by second pitch Devils Chimney.
with Geoffers
Kevster 31 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 31 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 2 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden 28 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 2nd
Hidden 8 Sep, 2006 AltLd
Hidden 7 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
Geoffers ?Aug, 2006 Lead White Riot pitch 1, Devils Chimney pitch 2
with Tim
White Riot pitch 1, Devils Chimney pitch 2
with Tim
Duncan Hardy 3 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Paul Smith
with Paul Smith
Neil Ireson 22 Sep, 2005 AltLd The boulder has moved from start of the climb so there is now 20ft of unprotected climbing to reach the platform below the cracks. This definitely increases the grade to HVS.
with John
The boulder has moved from start of the climb so there is now 20ft of unprotected climbing to reach the platform below the cracks. This definitely increases the grade to HVS.
with John
BALD EAGLE 18 Sep, 2005 Lead
with Jenny Smith
with Jenny Smith
AJM ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
with stuartf
with stuartf
Hidden 11 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
ferdia 3 Sep, 2004 2nd
with ccliff
with ccliff
Bob M ?Sep, 2001 -
with Jill Stevens
with Jill Stevens
Hidden 13 Aug, 2001 AltLd
alan moore ??, 2000 - Great outing. Huge descent to the Tunnels of Lovely and took in a solo of the Needle on the approach. A tough Lundy VS in an amazingly isolated spot. Thankfully easy scramble back to the plateau.
Great outing. Huge descent to the Tunnels of Lovely and took in a solo of the Needle on the approach. A tough Lundy VS in an amazingly isolated spot. Thankfully easy scramble back to the plateau.
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 16 Sep, 1999 Lead
WB ?Sep, 1999 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
Rock Fairy ??, 1999 2nd Picnic on top
with Carl & Chris
Picnic on top
with Carl & Chris
pauldrew ?Sep, 1998 AltLd
with Julian Cox
with Julian Cox
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
pgac 12 Sep, 1997 2nd O/S
with si bourne
with si bourne
Pete Nugent 31 Aug, 1996 AltLd led p.1
with Ian Makin
led p.1
with Ian Makin
Hidden 17 Aug, 1995 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz ??, 1995 -
colin milton 27 Sep, 1994 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
mattnuttall ?Sep, 1992 AltLd O/S in the rain I think - otherwise why were we on a VS?
with Alan Holden
in the rain I think - otherwise why were we on a VS?
with Alan Holden
D Tempest ?Aug, 1976 -
Steve Woollard ??, 1973 AltLd
with John Barnett, Martin Crocker
with John Barnett, Martin Crocker
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set