UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Description
A superb pitch which follows the continuous line of right-leaning cracks up the best section of the slab. Start at a crack-line 5m right of the left edge of the slab. Follow the crack in its entirety with the main difficulties located in its upper half. Good gear. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , I want a Pasty! , Culm Along , 22 For 2022 , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 102
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 92
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shangri-La

Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)

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