Rockfax Description
Lots of great climbing on the first pitch. The route described is slightly different to that in other guidebooks taking in a better stance and line. Start at the left end of the low overhang at the base of the slab, 8m right of the arete.
1) 5b, 23m. Move through the overhang at a notch and climb the widest of the thin cracks to a thin horizontal break. Go left along this to the base of a right-facing corner and climb it to an overlap. Move left to a flake and take this until it is possible to move left once again across the main overlap with difficulty. Downclimb leftwards to the stance of Midnight Cowboy.
2) 4c, 34m. Move up rightwards above the overlap to a smaller overlap and horizontal break. Climb the thin diagonal crack leftwards to broken ground and finish up the cleanest line with care. Stake belays on the left and right. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Hidden 14/May Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 05/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

P1, proper slabby moves

Lizard Ollie 05/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Joe took P1 which was really good. It sickens me to the core to say this but I actually enjoyed the slab climbing! However, the elation was quickly extinguished by a handful of grass and eyeful of soil above non-existent gear on P2.

Stanners 12/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Superb first pitch and unusual climb in that it reverses the crux of another route! Contrary to others on here, I think the step down to midnight cowboy works well, but just make sure you traverse far left enough before stepping down! Top pitch, very serious..very serious indeed. No shame in pre-lowering a rope I reckon because it is no test of skill or nerve, it's just a bit stupid. Nearly came off myself near the top which would of been messy.

with James Rich
JamesRich 12/Sep/17 2nd O/S
stella imong 13/Jul/17 2nd O/S

2nd pitch only

with Dan Frean, Dominic Acland
sinbad 15/Apr/17 AltLd

I led first pitch - very good, a little bold in places but lovely climbing (for a slab!). Pete called for a rope on top pitch - loose choss with no gear - took 'bucket man' well over half an hour to drop a rope - but it was gratefully received!

with Pete
Pete Burgess 15/Apr/17 AltLd
with simon tong
Jamie Skelton 07/Apr/17 TR O/S

Top 1 maybe 2 pitches

morageagleson 06/Apr/17 TR O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
Hidden 08/Jul/16 AltLd
catty_9 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Hardest moves are the thin crack on the first pitch but generally the first pitch was lovely climbing. Second pitch pretty green and horrible though

Angrypenguin 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

First pitch wonderful, gorgeous technical but well protected climbing. Second pitch and absolute horror show. No gear anywhere, not easy climbing and then degenerates into a mess of mud and loose grass clumps. Ran P1 into P2 by not downclimbing to midnight cowboy belay, wouldn't recommend as too much rope drag.

with catty_9
JackM92 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. First excellent. Didn't bother downclimbing to join the Midnight Cowboy belay, there's a perfectly adequate stance on route. Top pitch an unprotected horror show, very tenous!

Jelly Mould Surfer 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S


with Mike Thorpe
Hidden 09/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
dpalmer1961 17/Jul/15 Lead
AngelaC 21/Mar/15 2nd
ewalker278 04/Jan/15 AltLd
andrewmc 04/Jan/15 AltLd β

Led pitch 2. Pitch 1 is really nice. Pitch 2 starts nicely but then rapidly degrades into a vegetated horror. First all the holds and cracks start to fill with mud and vegetation. Digging these out may yield some holds, but no gear appears except dubious shallow micro placements. As you ascend footholds become replaced by loose tussocks of grass which you desperately hope remain attached. The rocks then takes on a wonderful loose and flakey character, and in keeping with the other topouts in this section you then have 15m of steep unprotected grass and loose rock to negotiate. Could do with a clean in advance, or leave a rope in the place? Surprisingly horrifying, and much worse than the top pitch of Midnight Cowboy! I may have also used my nutkey for a bit of aid on the final damp grass topout (plunging it into the soil)...

jamie ward 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
peter.ravenscroft27 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

First Pitch 3 star, an amazing sequence. night came in for the second pitch which was chossy loose and covered in lichen have no idea if we followed the correct line but well done dad for doing the pitch with very little gear.

with Dad
Marti999 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Big Lee 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Didn't really know where the pitch went so took the weakest line I could find. Not much gear on offer. First pitch was awesome. Good lead by Anna.

with annak
annak 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Big Lee
dready 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

pitch 1 lovely!! avoid no pro second pitch its loose and overgrown

Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 28/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 28/Jun/13 AltLd

Climbed the first pitch. Lead pitch 2 but went of f route onto the end of long rock eliminate.

with gerwen
Freshprintce 25/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Will Warrington
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Jams Crwca 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Almost lost partner due to tide!

with Craig
sgl 06/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with ben
Stephen Shaw 24/Jul/12 AltLd
with simon
stephen ashworth 22/Jul/12 AltLd
with john frost
Frostie 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Probably 5b on first pitch

with Steve Ashworth
mikemontain 15/Jul/12 Lead

Beyond description! Simply the best. Do Sexi - Cowboy the ultimate climb on this slab. 1st pitch sexilegs and 2nd, 3rd pitches midnight cowboy. Brilliant

with alison williams
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Rollo 24/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Mike did the 1st, delicate, I nearly fell on second! I lead the 2nd pitch up through badly protected grass and loose rock

mike.moss 24/Jun/12 AltLd
with Rollo
Sarah Welsh 26/May/12 AltLd O/S


steveprice.exmouth 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

led P1

eroica64 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Tried Gladiator and backed off, doing Sexilegs instead. I led pitch one, Mark led pitch 2

with Mark Lee
Ybot Htulk 07/May/12 AltLd

Not done this one before. First pitch is good.

with Duncan
tim exley 06/May/12 Lead O/S

1st pitch then second was made up

Country_Boy 06/May/12 AltLd β

Toby led P1, I led P2 although might have gone a bit off route.

with toby
Hidden 26/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
alan moore ??/2012 -

Some very hard bits.

Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd
Ian JL 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
rfdl100 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Climbed top pitch after Kinkyboots first pitch

with Simon Waters
Em66 05/Jun/11 AltLd
with Freg1
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
kdalzell 25/Apr/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 25/Apr/11 Lead
Kevster 27/Mar/11 Lead

1st pitch only

sammycolon 26/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Craig Geddes 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with George Porter
Paul Eckton ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with steve read
Joolz 25/Oct/10 Lead β

Lead both pitches as Jonnie was new to it all. Lovely to have lead what I've seconded once.

with Jonnie
Steve Woollard 10/Oct/10 AltLd

Led P1

with Helen
Chris the Tall 25/Sep/10 AltLd

Led the first (crux)

with Vic
gareth r 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Keith
RagingPuffin 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

2 contrasting pitches; the first, brilliant climbing on perfect rock, the second, loose choss composed mostly of plant life, with crap gear.

with Claire
culmclimberRob 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S

all in one pitch decided to burn through the pitchs instead of faf with a belay as tide was coming in last pitch pretty shite, but made it to belay in time with my belayer having about a foot of space between him and the incoming tide

with hamish
Joolz ?/Jun/10 AltLd

lead 2nd pitch nearing dark... need to get back and lead the 1st!

Julesthe1st 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Paul Wolf
MGrock ??/2010 -
mattf77 19/Aug/09 AltLd

lovely first pitch. rich lead second overgrown pitch

with rich
Hidden 23/Jul/08 2nd
Bob M 23/Jul/08 Lead
csd23 ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch, bold in places but good fun!. second pith is somewhat overgrown

with Mark Bunyard
John Lisle ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
brian watson ?/Sep/07 -
Caralynh 26/Aug/07 AltLd

Not the best ascent in the world. Went off route on first pitch and belayed where I could, not where I should. Dan then needed rescuing off second pitch. By which time we were both dehydrated and sunburnt. Bit of an epic :)

with dpmUK
Hidden 04/Aug/07 AltLd
Jon Evans 24/Jul/07 AltLd
with Paul
John Lisle ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Marq 16/Sep/06 AltLd O/S


with Daniel Dennehy
John Lisle ??/2006 -
BruceW ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Scary top pitch

with bectodd
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead
migs493 13/Jan/05 Lead O/S

Second pitch

Hidden 16/Oct/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 12/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Mark Watson
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Sanderson
reg_measures 29/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
with pete kenyon
Steve Webster 25/Aug/02 AltLd
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/02 AltLd
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with MGrock
MGrock ?/Aug/02 2nd
nickdonohue ?/Mar/02 AltLd
with Dave Chapman
rockjedi12345 ?/May/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
prometheus ??/1998 Lead
with Martin
Mickdenali ??/1998 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ??/1997 AltLd
Andy Chadwick ??/1985 AltLd O/S
tapley 14/Sep/84 Lead
with Chris Seymour
Hidden 21/Aug/83 Lead O/S
The Reaper 19/Mar/83 2nd rpt
Mike C 04/Jun/82 AltLd
with Andy Winfield
Simon cook ??/1982 -
Hidden 14/Nov/81 Lead
The Reaper 22/Aug/81 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 07/Dec/80 2nd
Ken Taylor 16/Apr/79 AltLd O/S
with Richard Langthorp, George Diprose
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Mike C 25/Jun/78 AltLd
with Kevin Howett
Steve Lewis 02/Jul/77 Lead O/S
with Gary
Dave Musgrove 29/May/72 AltLd
with Speedy Smith
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High E1
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
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