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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A lovely pitch, varied with the main interest at the start and end. Start up the steep crack just right of the cave and as the left wall is encountered, head rightwards to a midway easing at small vegetated ledges. Climb the steeper wall and flared groove until a final sequence reaches a tree and easier climbing to a big tree on the edge of the cliff. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff Nose , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , 23 HVS routes for 2023
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| No? Yes! | 8 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abseil station needs replacing - take cord and knife | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Abseil station needs replacing - take cord and knife |
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| Katsmiff | 6 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Low in the grade. Loads of good gear. You can lace it, so take lots of 1-8 nuts. Would be good for someone\'s 1st HVS lead. Hardest bit is the beginning. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Low in the grade. Loads of good gear. You can lace it, so take lots of 1-8 nuts. Would be good for someone's 1st HVS lead. Hardest bit is the beginning. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Bitter Battle Tears
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)