Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
The initial pitch has gone along with Meshach chimney. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , UK road to wide crack mastery , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales Jam and Wide Cracks
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jane Weir | 8 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I spent quite a while today wondering if I was losing the plot because I couldn’t see the start of this or shadrach and wondering why the path to this classic had become so overgrown. Gave up and climbed other routes, then read that the Shadrach block has been removed. Meh. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tremadog-rockfall-big-changes | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I spent quite a while today wondering if I was losing the plot because I couldn’t see the start of this or shadrach and wondering why the path to this classic had become so overgrown. Gave up and climbed other routes, then read that the Shadrach block has been removed. Meh. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tremadog-rockfall-big-changes |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Creagh Dhu Wall Direct
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))