A thrutchy chimney leading to more open climbing above. Start below the chimney.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the chimney - harder inside, easier, but bolder outside. From the top of the chimney step left and climb the flake and wall to a belay at the base of a big flake/pinnacle.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb the flake/pinnacle then make hard moves left past a polished and often-damp crack to a fin. Move up and right to gain a shallow groove. Climb this to its end and then move right onto the final slab. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
No longer climbable after significant rock removal. Now climbed as Momentum E2 6a.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , MIA logbook must haves! , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , High Quality Adventure routes , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Welsh Roadtrip
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