Rockfax Description
A semi-sport pitch that uses the brutal start of Castellan to a rest. After this move right up the pocketed wall and climb up to a rest in the groove of Hot Gossip. Reach left then climb up and left to the belay. It can be done as a sport route with two ropes and some jiggery-pokery with bolts and a stick-clip at the start. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A hybrid pitch which borrows the brutal start of Castellan to gain the hanging pocketed rib on its right.
1. 25m Climb Castellan for 8m (7b!) to a bridging rest. Move right onto the rib. Sustained pocket climbing past four bolts leads to a peg on Hot Gossip. Stretch left to clip a final bolt and climb past the peg until a move left gains a bolt belay.

Handy hints. 1.Best climbed on two ropes and then jettisoning one of the ropes at the bridging rest to eliminate drag. 2. A couple of bolts in the roof to the left can be optionally stick-clipped (or aided) to additionally protect the initial moves of Castellan. 3. Most of the gear can be pre-placed if abseiling down from the easily accessed Castellan tree belay at the top of the crag.

Simon Lee and Nick Conway 05/Aug/2016.

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