Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
The impressive roof at the right end of the cave is more reasonable than it appears from a distance. Well-protected but strenuous with generally good holds linked by great moves.
1) 6b, 21m. Somehow gain jugs on the lip and follow these into a thrutchy crack leading to a hanging stance. No big cigar?
2) 6b, 21m. The crack above the stance has one very hard move and excellent protection throughout. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1976. Free climbed over two days..
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , The High Tor Top Ten , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Hard Peak Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dave Musgrove Jnr | 3 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: It’s pumpy (in case you didn’t realise) | βeta? | |
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βeta: It’s pumpy (in case you didn’t realise) |
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| Boy | 22 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Above comment refers to the top pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Above comment refers to the top pitch. |
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| Boy | 10 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: The first and most important gear placement(the one stopping you landing on the belayer) is blocked with snapped stuck wire. Would be advisable to ab the route first and either remove or failing that thread the nut. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first and most important gear placement(the one stopping you landing on the belayer) is blocked with snapped stuck wire. Would be advisable to ab the route first and either remove or failing that thread the nut. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Silk
Grade: E5 6c ***
(Stanage Plantation)