60m, 2 pitches. From the ledge at the base of britomartis swing out onto the wall to the left of the crack of that route and traverse left in an increasingly upward manner for approx 30 ft until an open blind vertical crack/weakness is reached, climb this on positive holds, (crimps, layaways and all sorts) and with excellent protection until in another 30ft the wall steepens and the holds reduce in size a little at a small bulge/overlap, surmount this and continue more easily to the belay about 15 ft above.
No info on pitch 2.
A superb route, spacey position, excellent rock, good runners, positive holds and so steep if you fall off it you'll not hit anything and even if you solo'd it you'd fall into the sea, only reason it gets E2 is because of the exposure, worth 3 stars!

G.Gibson, D.Beetlestone 03/Apr/1980

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North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
morganator 20 Sep Lead O/S Top pitch only after Nicky led the main pitch of Britomartis. Nice combo
Top pitch only after Nicky led the main pitch of Britomartis. Nice combo
Lewis Perrin Williams 8 Aug Lead O/S Sustained interest all the way, hold broke off in my hand on the lower traverse which was exciting!
with John Tatam
Sustained interest all the way, hold broke off in my hand on the lower traverse which was exciting!
with John Tatam
Ted F 19 Jun Lead O/S
with Chelsea
with Chelsea
Matthawkins1234 ?Jun -
Bruise Apprentice 19 May AltLd O/S Led P2 - quite committing and the top 10m is unprotected. Good lead by Peter on P1 - pretty sustained.
Led P2 - quite committing and the top 10m is unprotected. Good lead by Peter on P1 - pretty sustained.
poeter210 19 May AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Apr 2nd
Hoyes 21 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Ace route. Sustained but well protected first pitch (me) and delicate second pitch (Spraggs). Probably low in the grade?
Ace route. Sustained but well protected first pitch (me) and delicate second pitch (Spraggs). Probably low in the grade?
spragglerocks 21 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2.
with Hoyes
Led P2.
with Hoyes
murray 11 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
J_Spooner 23 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Led 2nd Pitch, after seconding up Britomartis 1st pitch. Gear was okay.
with Eve Lancashire
Led 2nd Pitch, after seconding up Britomartis 1st pitch. Gear was okay.
with Eve Lancashire
alexm198 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Intended to do Spider Wall but I think I must have done the first pitch of this instead. Steep, plumb vertical crack leading directly into the Britomartis stance. I noticed a line of jugs leading diagonally leftwards (which I assume is the Spider Wall line) but given that Rockfax referred to it as a 'straight' crack, I fired up this instead. Superb climbing on great holds for the most part. Jack finished up Spider Wall P2.
with JackM92
Intended to do Spider Wall but I think I must have done the first pitch of this instead. Steep, plumb vertical crack leading directly into the Britomartis stance. I noticed a line of jugs leading diagonally leftwards (which I assume is the Spider Wall line) but given that Rockfax referred to it as a 'straight' crack, I fired up this instead. Superb climbing on great holds for the most part. Jack finished up Spider Wall P2.
with JackM92
JackM92 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P1 of Toiler and P2 of Spider Wall. Very good combination.
P1 of Toiler and P2 of Spider Wall. Very good combination.
lanky 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Rich
with Rich
Hidden 3 May, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 3 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Apr, 2017 2nd
Jmpollard 12 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Wanted to do spider wall but couldn't remember where it went, so went up the crack which I believe is this route. Fully committed pulling the ab ropes too! Really good pumpy P1, then P2 of spider wall.
Wanted to do spider wall but couldn't remember where it went, so went up the crack which I believe is this route. Fully committed pulling the ab ropes too! Really good pumpy P1, then P2 of spider wall.
Jack93 26 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Didn't traverse far enough for Spider Wall and ended up on this by accident, finished up the last pitch of Spider wall
Didn't traverse far enough for Spider Wall and ended up on this by accident, finished up the last pitch of Spider wall
adie84 13 Aug, 2016 -
jsmcfarland ?Aug, 2016 AltLd Overall soft E2 I would say. First pitch isn't too physical or unprotected, though second pitch is very delicate without much gear. Good route on great rock though : ) Standard chossy topout
with Robert
Overall soft E2 I would say. First pitch isn't too physical or unprotected, though second pitch is very delicate without much gear. Good route on great rock though : ) Standard chossy topout
with Robert
Hidden 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd
DaveThexton 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Kelly
with Kelly
The Grist 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Phil Leng
with Phil Leng
philhilo 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led top pitch - the easy ground finish consisted of suspect rock and no gear, nice finish!
Led top pitch - the easy ground finish consisted of suspect rock and no gear, nice finish!
andycash 14 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Luca Celano
with Luca Celano
LucaC 14 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S P1
P1
Sardien 14 May, 2016 2nd O/S Loved P1!
with nawface
Loved P1!
with nawface
saintlade ??, 2016 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
richgibson 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p2
with John, coombsy
Led p2
with John, coombsy
D.Russell 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Ally Baba 11 Aug, 2015 Lead
The old James turnbull 11 Aug, 2015 -
with John Crook
with John Crook
Davesmith1981 16 Jul, 2015 2nd
with duncan darnell
with duncan darnell
duncandarnell 16 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with dave smith
with dave smith
mike mo 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Did 1st pitch in 1977 instead of spider wall
with Roger
Did 1st pitch in 1977 instead of spider wall
with Roger
Jake Young 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
James Oswald 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
smallerrich ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Britomartis into Toiler, led 2nd pitch of Toiler
with Dave Smith
Britomartis into Toiler, led 2nd pitch of Toiler
with Dave Smith
jonleighton 20 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 20 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with John Leighton
with John Leighton
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
will9911 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
ferdia 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Andrew Wilson 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd rpt
with ferdia
with ferdia
Andy Clarke 9 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Another fine Gogarth E2 with very contrasting pitches. P1: steep and juggy. P2: fingery technical moves to get established on the slab - bold climbing in an exciting position. Led P2.
with Dale
Another fine Gogarth E2 with very contrasting pitches. P1: steep and juggy. P2: fingery technical moves to get established on the slab - bold climbing in an exciting position. Led P2.
with Dale
wi11 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1 - Jug fest. P2 seemed steady. Soft for E2?
Led P1 - Jug fest. P2 seemed steady. Soft for E2?
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Dale ?Jul, 2014 Lead O/S I had the first pitch Andy had the second pitch. Went off route on the first pitch and climbed the middle of the wall between britomartis and toiler. Eventually got into the steep crack at the top. Think I did the crux although felt all about the same sustained on amazing holds. The second pitch me and Andy both thought was the crux pitch run out 5b climbing. Awesome
I had the first pitch Andy had the second pitch. Went off route on the first pitch and climbed the middle of the wall between britomartis and toiler. Eventually got into the steep crack at the top. Think I did the crux although felt all about the same sustained on amazing holds. The second pitch me and Andy both thought was the crux pitch run out 5b climbing. Awesome
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2014 AltLd
littleduck 3 May, 2014 2nd
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
Andrew Wilson 12 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
Si ??, 2014 -
Pete_Frost 29 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2. The holds on P1 are so good you'll want to take them home; on P2 you won't want to, but you will be able to. Take a micro cam, micro to medium wires and super-glue.
with Megan Beaumont
Led P2. The holds on P1 are so good you'll want to take them home; on P2 you won't want to, but you will be able to. Take a micro cam, micro to medium wires and super-glue.
with Megan Beaumont
Simon Allcock 20 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S I led 2nd pitch
with Wilki
I led 2nd pitch
with Wilki
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 2nd
andyinglis 21 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P2. P1 is fantastic, but both pitches are easy for an E2 route.
with dave o
Lead P2. P1 is fantastic, but both pitches are easy for an E2 route.
with dave o
dave o 21 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2013 AltLd rpt
Hidden 5 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
captain ??, 2013 -
Dave Almond 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Helen Rennard
with Helen Rennard
Cardi 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Jack led P1. I led P2 of Spider Wall, as we had already done P2 after Britomartis
with Jack S
Jack led P1. I led P2 of Spider Wall, as we had already done P2 after Britomartis
with Jack S
Hidden 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Nik Jennings 10 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S 2nd pitch only.
2nd pitch only.
leon 10 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Lead 2nd pitch. Richard led first pitch of Britomartis
Lead 2nd pitch. Richard led first pitch of Britomartis
Rachel S 10 Aug, 2012 2nd P2 only
P2 only
kdalzell 7 Aug, 2012 2nd
with Konrad Doyle, Liam FLeming
with Konrad Doyle, Liam FLeming
pie_eater_pete 3 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
Alex Mason 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2. Good first gogarth lead from Sam.
with Sam
Led P2. Good first gogarth lead from Sam.
with Sam
mick1jones 21 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S Rich led P2 as a finish to Britomartis
with Rich Rogers
Rich led P2 as a finish to Britomartis
with Rich Rogers
Hidden 19 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jun, 2012 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 6 May, 2012 Lead What an amazing route. Jugs, loads of gear and a beautiful place.
with Viv
What an amazing route. Jugs, loads of gear and a beautiful place.
with Viv
chris m fisher 6 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Liam FLeming 7 Nov, 2011 -
with stuart lade
with stuart lade
Hidden 24 Sep, 2011 AltLd rpt
Drew M 24 Sep, 2011 Lead
with Ed F
with Ed F
Hidden 27 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
willoates 27 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Both pitches, 1st pitch is piss (5a), hardest bit was finding the crack and all you have to do is keep traversing until you do. 2nd pitch was more techy, gear was ok where you needed it.
with Iona
Both pitches, 1st pitch is piss (5a), hardest bit was finding the crack and all you have to do is keep traversing until you do. 2nd pitch was more techy, gear was ok where you needed it.
with Iona
Exodus 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Sophie
with Sophie
MikePycroft 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd rpt l p1, damp
with Chris P
l p1, damp
with Chris P
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 2nd
Owain Llewelyn 11 Jun, 2011 Lead
with Dad
with Dad
dan ely 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with steve
with steve
Dangerous Dave 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch thought start was harder than the main crack. Very good.
with Wild Beast
Led 1st pitch thought start was harder than the main crack. Very good.
with Wild Beast
Hidden 3 May, 2011 2nd dog
Pete Graham 2 May, 2011 AltLd
with Rick Graham
with Rick Graham
haydng 30 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S With Britomartis top pitch as I was weak!
with Rob
With Britomartis top pitch as I was weak!
with Rob
benkelsey 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S pitch one has all the holds its just a case of using the right ones and powering through.. felt quite pumped towards the top. second pitch felt commiting as there is a lot of loose rock around and the holds/ route finding wasn't obvious. 3 stars.
with remus
pitch one has all the holds its just a case of using the right ones and powering through.. felt quite pumped towards the top. second pitch felt commiting as there is a lot of loose rock around and the holds/ route finding wasn't obvious. 3 stars.
with remus
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
mux 17 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S great route with 2 ver good and contrasting pitches, not sure I would recomend it as your first E2 though as its a bit run out on pitch two with some loose bits thown in for that true Gogarth top out.
with frost
great route with 2 ver good and contrasting pitches, not sure I would recomend it as your first E2 though as its a bit run out on pitch two with some loose bits thown in for that true Gogarth top out.
with frost
frost 17 Apr, 2011 AltLd dog Hung around too long on the traverse and got pumped stupid.
with D Garry
Hung around too long on the traverse and got pumped stupid.
with D Garry
tuftynick ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Pippa 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd
soph ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
Dave Foster 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead P1. Suprised at how far I had to traverse left before I got to the correct crack. There's a line that leads up too early which looks hard and not very well protected - epic potential. Great sustained juggy climbing once in the crack and well protected, maybe a good first Gogarth E2 (do Britomartis first and imagine a vertical line that leads to the belay when you're on the traverse of Toiler, you'll go far enough then!). P2 shortlived but looks like a worrying lead, gear's pap and the holds get smaller.
with Andy
Lead P1. Suprised at how far I had to traverse left before I got to the correct crack. There's a line that leads up too early which looks hard and not very well protected - epic potential. Great sustained juggy climbing once in the crack and well protected, maybe a good first Gogarth E2 (do Britomartis first and imagine a vertical line that leads to the belay when you're on the traverse of Toiler, you'll go far enough then!). P2 shortlived but looks like a worrying lead, gear's pap and the holds get smaller.
with Andy
tomhull 18 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S lead 2nd pitch, tricky in an awesome position
with mike thomas, sally wheatley
lead 2nd pitch, tricky in an awesome position
with mike thomas, sally wheatley
London Luke ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Dan
with Dan
tobydunford 24 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
Hidden 15 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 15 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S first pitch
with Ed F
first pitch
with Ed F
Steve Long ??, 2010 -
Hidden 12 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 12 Jul, 2009 2nd Brilliant pumpy first pitch, scary second pitch.
with Andy Hobson
Brilliant pumpy first pitch, scary second pitch.
with Andy Hobson
Speeddemonsi 27 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 27 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch. Probably the best E2 I've done.
Led 1st pitch. Probably the best E2 I've done.
Hidden 11 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 11 Apr, 2009 AltLd Went a bit off route leading p1
with long
Went a bit off route leading p1
with long
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2009 Lead O/S
centurion05 14 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
with chris thorne
with chris thorne
alaan 14 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Lead both pitches.
with Pete
Lead both pitches.
with Pete
petellis 14 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
with alaan
with alaan
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
kingholmesy ??, 2008 AltLd O/S 5b,5b. Led 2nd pitch.
with Brian
5b,5b. Led 2nd pitch.
with Brian
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
Ben Wolstenholme ??, 2006 AltLd
with JR
with JR
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
accynez ??, 2005 2nd
with Boggy
with Boggy
DaveHK 3 Mar, 2003 AltLd
with Steve Wells
with Steve Wells
jgordon75 ??, 2003 Lead O/S Off route trying to do something else I think
with Dan Rigby, Owen W-G
Off route trying to do something else I think
with Dan Rigby, Owen W-G
Hidden 5 May, 2002 AltLd O/S
MikePycroft 5 May, 2001 Lead
steveb2006 5 May, 2001 2nd Lead top pitch
Lead top pitch
chrishedgehog 3 Sep, 2000 Lead dnf Led most of this under the misapprehension that it was Brito...
with Dan Bailey
Led most of this under the misapprehension that it was Brito...
with Dan Bailey
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
zero six ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Ched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Julie Hamilton
with Julie Hamilton
pete johnson 2 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
Andy Say 1 Aug, 1995 Lead
pauldrew ??, 1995 AltLd
Hidden 3 Oct, 1993 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1993 AltLd
WB ??, 1992 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
steveb2006 14 Jul, 1991 Lead Led first (main) pitch
with Simon Mee
Led first (main) pitch
with Simon Mee
whispering nic 27 May, 1991 AltLd
with Ali W
with Ali W
steveb2006 19 May, 1990 Lead Lead both pitches after Mervyn fails on top pitch
with Mervyn Dudley
Lead both pitches after Mervyn fails on top pitch
with Mervyn Dudley
Nick Rundall ??, 1990 2nd O/S
Neil McA 14 Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
with Burt Levy
with Burt Levy
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
johno072 ?Jul, 1979 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 30
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set