Rockfax Description
The crack that runs the full height of the crag shows the line of this route. The top is very loose and can be dangerous for all parties below you, were you to knock stuff off. If the tide is in or the sea is rough, start from the top of the first pitch reached by an exciting diagonal abseil.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the chimney, and thread yourself through the hole with as much dignity as possible. Then follow the thin groove above to reach good ledges, and belay just to the left of the main crack-line.
2) 4c, 40m. Move over to the crack and follow it up to a hanging stance where the crack is widest, level with where a corner-crack leads leftwards out of the main crack.
3) 5a, 35m. Move over the bulge and gain the corner-crack on the left, climb this with extreme care. An awkward move gains the start of a long ledge, which is followed left to a belay on the wall just below the top. Scramble easily up and left to the hillside above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Hidden 11/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
afearn91 18/Oct/17 2nd
james.slater 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S
afearn91 08/Oct/17 2nd
tomos.jenkins 08/Oct/17 2nd
danjouan 23/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Sopping wet- started up Dream, bumbled up this due to rain. Finished direct, didn't seem as dangerously loose as advertised.

Mark Fairhurst 19/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Rob Harden
Scraggadoo 25/Aug/17 AltLd

Led top pitch; Dave nearly came a cropper when foothold broke off (so did Ads who was belaying underneath!)

Silasatkin 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Freddie
Libla85 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Abseil 35 meters to start of second pitch - tide was in so couldn't do 1st pitch. I lead first pitch and belay just below small bush. Dave lead second but didn't do the exact finish, he continued up the wall above instead of the traverse finish. Time: 3.5 hours

with Dave Jones
Hidden 31/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Just_Waltr 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Jo Trendall
murray 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Felicity
Felicity Eperon 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Murray
HannahC 15/Jul/17 AltLd


poeter210 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with HannahC
mapperley samurai 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Andy Brown
Harry Ellis 09/Jun/17 Lead
with Ewa
Javis 28/May/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/17 AltLd rpt
Flavio 27/May/17 AltLd O/S

So good we even climbed it again in the pouring rain..

dr_botnik 25/May/17 AltLd O/S

From high tide mark, led the final traverse pitch. Climbed the route in a t-shirt and shorts! Lovely weather, sublime climb

the power 25/May/17 AltLd
with rob
Jules Lane 12/May/17 AltLd O/S

Fabulous. Tough finish !

with Mynydd Mark W, Mynydd James
Hoyes 12/May/17 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 3. Led P3.

Dan724 09/May/17 Lead O/S

'Guiding' Sean. He had only done 1 multi-pitch route before so I led all pitches. A good way to get your bearings in the Wen Zawn as this is the most obvious line of weakness.

with Sean Mitchell Wales
seanwales91 09/May/17 2nd dog

Missed the first pitch - high tide, rested on the rope on the second pitch due to a very stuck nut! My first multi-pitch! WOOP

Sarah Roscoe 29/Apr/17 2nd

first trip to gogarth, lovely climbing once you get over the exposure!

gav 29/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Only the top 2 pitches of which I lead the first. After my battle with gogarth, was mentally and physically drained, so the easy 4c pitch was a real battle in its lower half. After a good rest and acclimatising to the exposure, enjoyed the final pitch more.

with Katie M
K Mckay 29/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led P3.

accordion_to_who 01/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
beagly77 ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd
rob.grafton ??/2017 -
liebs 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
john_mx 11/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
SamT_01 11/Sep/16 2nd
with john_mx
adie84 13/Aug/16 -
GregM1 13/Aug/16 2nd
steveboote 13/Aug/16 Lead

First trad route for Greg Munsch

Anti-faff 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Abbed in to do Concrete Dream but had to shuffle up this due to a punter queue for the last pitch of Dream of White Horses and the onset of rain. Not a bad route though.

with Jas Wood
khalidq 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Top pitch

with Peter Harris
natetan 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Too lazy to change out of trainers - it is basically a slab with jugs.

RM199 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Jonathan Hall 30/Jul/16 AltLd
dan-8990 29/Jul/16 AltLd
with SW
lorens holm 27/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Our second big route, Oscar and I, after 'Dream...'. Another mind-blowing approach down to that tat, another big route on that big slab. I did the top pitch, Oscar the first.

with Oscar
Hidden 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
RebekahD 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Started on dream but bailed onto wen because of queues.

with Calum
jonleighton 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Emily C 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Jon
Cheeks 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

On sight for me, 1st time at GG and what a sight. Led final pitch. Cannot wait to return with a little more technique.

with Richard Toon
robhunt 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Nathan Rostron
Nafclimbsrocks 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Rob LCCC
dtalbot 27/Jun/16 Lead

Nice sustained route

with Roger B
davewsargent 24/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with andy neath
Hidden 20/Jun/16 Lead O/S
J_Spooner 20/Jun/16 2nd
fizzychewitt 18/Jun/16 AltLd
with Jayne
hazeysunshine 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Laura S
Hidden 14/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jun/16 AltLd
Charlie Low 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led from the high tide ledge, did P2. Last pitch was pretty loose, good climbing though!

Jack93 11/Jun/16 AltLd

Did from the high tide ledge, led P3. Cool climbing, last pitch takes a bit of care to avoid the loose bits though!

Hidden 07/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/May/16 Lead O/S
SAF 23/May/16 2nd O/S
with Phil
Markheighton 21/Apr/16 2nd
withey1992 21/Apr/16 2nd
Alex_Derbyshire 21/Apr/16 2nd

Led by John Orr on University trip. First time on a sea cliff thrilling experience and awesome route!

spragglerocks 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Didn't do p1 (done it before). Led p2

with John
Hidden 16/Apr/16 AltLd
lanky 15/Apr/16 AltLd
with Mike
drobin 12/Mar/16 AltLd
MSchobitz 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Poor top pitch.

saintlade ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
suds_01 02/Nov/15 AltLd
dobby 200 02/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

I led p3, it was horrible! Constantly pulling lots of lose rock out, as well as everything being soaking wet

Graeme Hammond 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
rich_hw 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Michael Morrell 30/Sep/15 AltLd

Awesome crack line running through the middle of the crag. Loads of placements for big cams and nuts. Really long pitches which played to my strengths.

Chris Manasseh 19/Sep/15 AltLd

Led P2. P1 very wet. John had to go for a swim after setting up the second ab too far left (looking in) and couldn't pendulum across. Set it up to the right of the crack line.

with John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 19/Sep/15 AltLd

led p1&3. Bit of boulder-hopping /swimming as ab'd in directly below top of p1. Not recommended! Best to ab in further right (looking in)

with Chris
Gareth T 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with AndrewP
AndrewP 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

From the ledges. I lead P2 which is amazing. On any other crag this would be ***, but I suppose it's not quite as good as Dream or Concrete. Some suspect rock on P3.

Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd
Tony Ryland 31/Aug/15 AltLd

Led long pitch 1 Gogarth effect was out in force Great finish but glad I wasn't leading it

wrapped in bacon 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Chris, Daryl
Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd
kelly_426 19/Aug/15 AltLd
LDudill 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Started from ledge. Kelly p1 me p2.

Helen Boothman 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Martin A
Gabe Oliver 14/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

First time on Gogarth. Originally planned to do Dream but got stuck behind another party and did a weird amalgamation of the two. I lead 1st pitch of Wen up into the traverse of Dream and then Luca finished up the rest of Wen. Going to come back to claim the proper ascent of Dream

LJC 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S

All pitches

with Seb
Hidden 14/Jul/15 2nd
neal 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

From the bottom in 3 pitches (used someone elses 60m ab rope). Led P2. first pitch a bit greasy, 2nd easy, 3rd quite atmospheric.

jmills94 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, bit loose between the good holds but easy enough. Top pitch was utterly fantastic. Moving up the groove to the crack is splendid and the move to stand up in the crack is superb and beautifully exposed. great route.

with pip
Hidden 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
08nbrierley 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with jamie
Charlie Zephyr Booth 27/Jun/15 Lead
davebrox 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Vanders
Hidden 22/Jun/15 -
Martin Cooper 14/Jun/15 AltLd

Sea level start- damp James led P2

with James
rd20 25/May/15 AltLd O/S


with David P
dprctr 25/May/15 AltLd O/S

Started from high tide. Lead pitch 3. Great exposure.

guy757 04/May/15 -
cmoxon ??/2015 -

Aimed to do dream. Beautiful day and crowded with very slow party ahead. Chose Wen instead - good but sad to have missed a dream assent - will have to come back!

Jim Walton ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
MarkRoe 29/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Done in two long pitches from the ledge system. What an amazing place! and seals, seals everywhere.

with Smithy
Mike Lates 06/Oct/14 AltLd
with Lucy Spark
Pete_Frost 28/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

Led final pitch. Esther led P2 as we began this at high tide and started with P2.

with Esther Bott
w-watson 06/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
andyjirvin 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led p2, Michal p3. P1 too wet and smashed by waves. Thought the third pitch was easily better of the two. P2 nothing to get excited about. Great fun right at the top of the climb! Only 2 stars for me as it seems unbalanced. Maybe p1 is also really good, shame we missed it.

will moy 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

went a bit off route at the top.

roundabout 20/Jul/14 2nd

Waited for dense fog to clear, then it was roasting hot, and no water, got pretty dehydrated (won't make that mistake again). What a position, what a route. First Gogarth adventure. Tony had to ab to save my chalkbag dangling off a ledge at the top when it flew out of the sac. Not the most comfortable belays, but what a place to hang out.

with Tony
Josiemc 10/Jul/14 AltLd
JamesWilliams 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

starting from the ledges lead p1(p2) pretty easy romp up good holds

with Rafe
UncleMephisto 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Started from the ledges as the tide was in. Mike led p2, very windy, quite sustained and a long pitch. I led p3 fairly steady over the buldge and up the left corner then out on to an extremely exposed traverse. Nice end,

with Mike Roberts
robpartridge ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Harry Wickham
augustus trout 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Started from the ledge belay at end of P1.

with Dr Julie
MaccMark 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Led P1.

james1978 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with pam
chris fox 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Rapped down to about 10m right of belay for 2nd pitch. Ran out the pitch for 55m and set up belay. Superb climb, superb setting, clear skies and cliff to ourselves. Great to be back on Gogarth after a 7 year absence.

jamesgodwin64 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Bang on! started on P2 and led P3 first sea cliff climb.

with Chiris Fox
DaveThexton 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Guy Ruyssevelt, John Crewe
James Oswald 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd & 3rd pitches after it drizzled when we abseiled in to do Zeus.

Johnmuff ?/Jun/14 AltLd
Martin Haworth 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
maria85 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2, soaking wet, pity as would've been lovely if dry! P3 dry & nice.

with Robin, Amy
amy 25/May/14 2nd
KeenClimber 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Ron
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Cake 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

No P1. Matt P2, me P3. Steady 4c both pitches really. I stood up on the ledge first then moved across, but that was scary. Left a wire and extender in at top because second didn't want to traverse high.

with Matt
Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
ianstevens 14/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 06/May/14 AltLd
David Sherratt 06/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Nick Nitro 10/Apr/14 AltLd
anthonydouglas 10/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

First climb of the year, lead pitch 1 & 3, bum twitchy move on final traverse.

with Joe Fraser
Tomprusk 10/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Moritz L 29/Mar/14 AltLd

Only top two pitches. I lead P1. Fairly easy but nice long crack

David Kay 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Jack Graham
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Bill Lawrence 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

led the long pitch, could tell the climbing was nice but it was wet all the way up which was disappointing. top pitch was nice and much more enjoyable

with andy lawrence
Anna Riley 20/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
geoff.comley 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Took the original line and traversed left at the top. Didn't really rate it. awesome cliff and a first visit, looking over at quartz icicle for my next trip.

Big Lee 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P2 & 3 only. Led the top pitch. Felt more like VS 5a as 4c all the way until one delicate move at the top to gain the ledge.

annak 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lovely. Straightforward with one 5a move at the crux.

Hidden 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/13 -
cbeard 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
deklan 25/Jun/13 Lead
with Tom, Jacek
TCarrick 24/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead most of P2 but backed of the crux which was annoying as seconding was pretty straight forward.

TomMorgan 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ben Rigby
colin milton 19/Jun/13 AltLd

lead P1 &3. P3 is easy only 4c

with shaun l
R0bbie 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with leighn
tsl42 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Awesomeness.

with David Fountain
Simon Allcock 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Mary, Wilki
mes32 30/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch. First Gogarth lead.

with Simon Allcock, Wilki
stuaart 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 (we skipped P1). Mark led P3.

with marq, Neil Redgrave
Marq 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Stuart 2nd pitch then me for the third pitch

with Stuart (Neil's mate), Neil Redgrave (LMC)
Hidden 01/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/13 -
Jillybean 27/Apr/13 AltLd
with Brad
arose 25/Apr/13 Lead

Topped out at sunset - great fun

Tightsgirl 25/Apr/13 AltLd
Skinny Kin 19/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

We didn't do the first pitch as even at lowest tide, the sea was a bit rough. Neap tide didn't help. 4c pitch, Pete put tons of gear in. The traverse near the top was tricky to start. Nevertheless, quite exciting climbing. Don't do it in the shade of the morning. We were almost frozen to death! It's definitely an afternoon route in the sun.

with Pete Frost
Pete_Frost 19/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Had to miss pitch 1 as low tide neaps are not low enough to give a dry belay with even a slight swell. Pitch 2 was wet and cold. Great line and would be superb on a summer day.

Hidden 13/Apr/13 AltLd
pete87abs 13/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Johnywilks 07/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Steady climb and tame for HVS 5a.

herman0055 07/Apr/13 AltLd
with Wilki
Alex the Alex ?/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climb in an amazing zawn. no more than VS.

pete87abs 31/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 31/Mar/13 AltLd
DJayB 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Steve Mooney 01/Mar/13 AltLd

Started on Dream but moved onto Wen due to extreme cold, faff and traffic!

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
jimxxx ??/2013 -
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Gerallt Owain 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul Davies
tedburt 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Skipped P1 Led P2 2nd P3

with Aaron Burdett
keith Lonsdale 21/Jul/12 2nd
andybirtwistle 21/Jul/12 Lead
duncandarnell ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 29/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/12 Lead O/S
SamuelHarris 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Started on Dream and then moved into Wen due to traffic and heat.

Hidden 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
highclimber 09/May/12 Lead O/S

Got there at high tide so started from P1 stance. I don't think the middle pitch is a hard 4c IMO. Nice route nonetheless.

Hidden 09/May/12 2nd
Lenny 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Top pitch

with John
minaturechris 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Barra
NickJH ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with M Bennett
Hardonicus 28/Apr/12 AltLd rpt
with Kay Martin
jezb1 24/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Traversed into start of P2. I lead P3. Absolutely cracking route.

Hidden 24/Apr/12 -
Maken 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
williamsd79 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 2

HIGHTOWER 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Started from a hanging stance about half way up the first pitch as the very bottom was wet. Led P1&3.

Hidden 06/Mar/12 -
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
Hidden 28/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
willoates ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Iona
Hidden ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
melonmike 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Missed out the first pitch

with Pete Bugryniec, Nick
nic42 05/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with pete, mike
Hidden 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Lead main pitch. Tricky route finding for the top pitch, not a clear ledge on the left so Matt carried on straight up under the overhang and rightwards.

with Matt Harris
Matt Cooke 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

Jonny Nick 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S

John did the leading on this one, little bit above me at the moment, plus I was absolutely shattered having climbed for about 9 days solid. Really should have worn better shoes, struggled to trust my big slippers. Bloody epic route with amazing exposure. Definitely need to return when comfortable leading hard HVS and have a go at 'Dream of White Horses'

simon kimber 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Ben Hirst
dan ely 01/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with helen
Hidden 27/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
metal arms 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
stephenhartley 20/Jul/11 2nd
nickmattia 20/Jul/11 AltLd
bsmedz 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Peter Sargent
pie_eater_pete 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with ben smedley
Lawrie Brand 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Finished direct instead of traversing left at the top, more like E1 5a

with Jo
Luis SD 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 AltLd
Jim Slater 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P2/P3 - Led top pitch.

zukator 03/Jun/11 AltLd
with Sarah
egg-man 01/Jun/11 AltLd

First pitch not done

with Pete Nugent
Smelly Fox 31/May/11 AltLd O/S

Did a variation finish up the red slab to the left of the main crack-line. Some snappy holds and not much gear, E1 5a.

with Steve Addy
egg-man 31/May/11 AltLd
Pete Nugent 31/May/11 AltLd rpt

omitted p1. I led p3, this time traversing at the top with feet in the break. [GP seconded with hands in the break]

mr mills 31/May/11 Lead O/S
with Gareth
tomdude 30/May/11 -
with shamonster
Hidden 30/May/11 -
David Sherratt 30/May/11 -
Pete Graham 02/May/11 AltLd
with Rick Graham
Slarti B 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S

First pitch seemed easy, but fun

with Chris Bull, Eric
Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

In two pitches. Led last pitch. All got a bit silly. After being very relaxed on the first pitch found some of the loose rock on the second pitch a bit unnerving. Small internal hissy fit. Arrived on the other side of the top traverse a broken man. Conclusion: Total Punter.

Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead
colkurtz 06/Apr/11 2nd
with Robb
Hidden ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
tuftynick ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
maxamusdecamus ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
MarekM ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
dan-8990 07/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with AO
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Tommy Cole 08/Oct/10 AltLd dog
with Max Stanley
Niall Ewen 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tom.e 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Claire
NaomiHart 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
PeteH 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
colenn 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Quite a surprise at the top.

with Peter Britton
healeyduk 02/Aug/10 AltLd
Dunx ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Joe M
hardoreVdiffBen 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 (from ledge)

with Remus
Hidden 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
tigertim 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Melenie, Tony Payne
Diggler 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with andyob
philhilo 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Now warm and sunny but with a fog bank just off shore. Best bit was the traverse at the top. Good lead of P2 by Roni, I did top pitch which was over too quick.

Purple Roni 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

abbed in to ledge as second route of the day...Dave led the 4c pitch I got the top...its cool nice traverse at top. prob easy HVS if you do it this way...

david morse 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Duncan
Hardonicus 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

Did properly by abbing into the bottom of the Zawn. First pitch definitely the hardest can see why no one does it. Thrutchy, slimy etc. Those saying it is easy HVS probably abbed in to the ledge. I lead P2 40 m epic jugfest at 4c. Traverse on P3 exciting!

with Chris Surfleet
willworkforfoodjnr 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

Started at the bottom and lead pitches 1 & 3. The final traverse is a bit intense, serious exposure!

Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
willson 16/Apr/10 2nd

In one pitch just.

with ben
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd
Sgt. Vest 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
ian d f 06/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
andyob ??/2010 AltLd O/S

good warm up to get used to the rock, it can pull away,lead the first pitch

with Diggler
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Steve Long ??/2010 -
surfbish 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great route with a spicy move at the top. The crack smells like old mans wee!

with Tom
Hidden 11/Sep/09 2nd O/S
dave o 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Julia H
jiles 07/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Alex Winter
Alex Winter 07/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
bob johnson 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S

very atmospheric conditions prevailed this day adding to the flavour of the overall climb - all goes smothly until you hit that final move on the top pitch then with salvation at hand you need to keep your nerve.

with Rich Ball
Leelogs 08/Aug/09 2nd

Skipped 1st pitch

with Chris
Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd
JEP 05/Jul/09 Lead
with Julie Cunningham
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/09 Lead
Different Steve 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Clare
lukehunt 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
nic42 05/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Luke
mic_b 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Skinner
Hidden 11/May/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 26/Apr/09 AltLd
with dan
mike lawrence? 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch

with Giles
gdb4060 18/Apr/09 AltLd

Skipped first pitch, Lead 2nd Pitch

with Mike
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
eagleopus 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alys
lamma_hippie 21/Mar/09 Lead
with Jon Lawton
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
windy100 ??/2009 -
antarcticfox ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Mark Lawton
Hidden ??/2009 -
nigel pearson 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

missed out first pitch. did rest of climb as two pitches. Finished straight up crack.

with Robin
mattyork2 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S

First Pitch only then into Concrete Chimmney

with John Vincent
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
jeffb 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Did the top pitch after doing Zeus

with stemill
Glyn 28/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Sally
stemill 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Top pitch only. Ended up on this after doing part of Zeus by accident.

with Jeff
Hidden 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Chad123 03/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Started up Quartz Icicle but when heavy rain started finished up this instead. Not bad route but concrete chimney much better....

with Jo
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/08 AltLd O/S
jimsim55 24/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch, some 40m of 4c, but was slightly miffed to find the next pitch graded 5a when it seemed quite simple.

daveclarke5 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Jim
Tom Eagle 19/May/08 AltLd
with skygod78
peter myers ??/2008 AltLd
with Tom Sylvester
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
tonanf ??/2008 -
Hidden 10/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 04/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

Good fun, but not nearly as big, scary & intimidating as I expected.

spum 21/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with mike reading
phil stubbs 11/Oct/07 AltLd O/S


with Chris wood
Hidden 29/Sep/07 AltLd
givemetea 27/May/07 AltLd O/S

did pitches 1 and 2 of Dream of White Horses followed by pitches 3 and 4 of Wen

with Ann Chong
ewen 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
John Kettle 29/Apr/07 -
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
barni ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Omar
Hidden ??/2007 -
mux ??/2007 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Chris Watkins
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks ??/2007 -
Rob Davies 14/Oct/06 AltLd rpt

We attempted to start from sea-level, but it's hard to identify when low tide isn't low enough. Not P1 of Wen or Zeus but something (unclimbed?) that Phil had to aid up to get us back to the usual ledges.

with Phil Ashton
Will1 ?/Jul/06 -
with Mike
Carl Smethurst 04/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Tony Woods
Hidden 27/May/06 AltLd
Ben Wolstenholme ??/2006 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
spidey 29/Aug/05 AltLd
datoon 13/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with RT
Owen W-G 17/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

A little disappointing compared to the other HVSs on the slab.

with Jim
jgordon75 17/Jul/05 AltLd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
A Crook 20/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Caught in a severe summer down pour. Wen becomes a drain pipe. Finshed vi athe rather loose clay like left hand finish

Hidden ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead
mike fenwick ?/May/04 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
chris wyatt ??/2004 AltLd
1202alarm ??/2004 -

On AMA AGM weekend

Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Gman ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Robbie H 27/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 felt sustained - spacey belay

with Mark Harrison
James B 29/Jun/03 -
with Phil
Hidden 29/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
Jon Pilling ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S

Great final pitch

with Ben Hardy
geoff b 11/May/03 AltLd

A pleasant romp.

with Rod W
reg_measures 16/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
with hugh thomas
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Kerm ??/2003 AltLd
chrishedgehog ??/2003 AltLd
with Joe Thompson
nickdonohue ?/Jul/02 AltLd
with Joe Brown
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S

Missed the belay on the second pitch so went to the top with horrendous rope drag.

with Martin Flint
jgordon75 ??/2002 Lead O/S
Brown ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Unknown
Hidden 02/Aug/01 AltLd
kato'sdad ?/Jun/01 AltLd
RobSimmo ?/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
cem 30/Sep/00 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Cam
WB 01/May/00 Lead O/S
with Paul
alan moore ??/2000 -

On a wild day of flying fog and upside down drizzle.

GuyM ??/2000 AltLd
with neil
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
with Jon
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Duncan I ?/Aug/98 -
with Toby Hulf
Rock Fairy ?/May/98 2nd
with Carl
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead O/S
with gaz
Hidden 17/Aug/96 Lead
pete johnson 02/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Lun
Hidden 03/Mar/96 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/95 AltLd
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 31/Oct/94 -
with Duncs
Chris Ellis 20/Jul/94 AltLd
with Dan Morgan
biggianthead 25/Jun/94 -
with HT
frost ?/May/94 2nd
Colin Edwards ??/1994 -
with Simon Gough Brown
adi bryant ?/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Sean Kelly ?/May/93 Lead

Seemed only VS.

with Paul Harding, John Hynes
Hidden 31/Jan/93 AltLd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/92 Lead
whispering nic ?/Jun/92 -
Hidden 19/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr/91 AltLd
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 23/Aug/90 AltLd O/S

Abseil epic

with John Buckley
Andy Say 11/Aug/90 Lead
pingora 12/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Bankhead
daviesxxx ??/1990 -
babymoac 07/Aug/89 Lead
michael burrows 28/May/89 AltLd rpt

led 2nd pitch

with pete roberts
conradallen 20/Apr/89 AltLd
with Jigsy
Andy Nicholson ?/May/88 AltLd O/S
with Spike
Hidden 05/Apr/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 -
Neil McA 02/May/87 AltLd O/S

An adventure in a force 8 gale. My rack was blowing upwards off my harness!

with Martin Mandel
Hidden ?/May/87 2nd
wynaptomos ?/Jan/87 AltLd O/S
keefe ??/1986 -
uphillnow 13/Jun/85 Lead

done various times, most recently on 1sept 2011- top 2 pitches only. Easy for grade but nice situations

Hidden 02/Mar/85 AltLd
jcw ??/1985 -
with Simon Donowho
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
Roy Stuart ??/1984 AltLd O/S
with Billy Bones
Hidden 30/May/83 AltLd
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead
with Derek Shaw
AlanLittle ?/Jun/82 AltLd

Finished direct up the horrendous loose crack. Next time RTFM!

with Dave Hayward
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 AltLd
Ian Jones ?/Oct/80 Lead O/S
with Pete Butler and Little Pete
Martin Bennett 12/Apr/80 -
with Stella Adams
Hidden 05/Apr/80 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/80 AltLd
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
with Barbara
mikej 10/Aug/79 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Mike Owen 17/Sep/78 AltLd O/S
with Pete Craig
johno072 ?/Jul/78 Lead
neilh 25/May/78 Lead
with john bish
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 04/May/77 AltLd
with Tom Walkington
Hidden 08/May/76 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/76 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1976 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1976 Lead
with Will Walker
Rob Davies 02/Sep/75 AltLd

1st HVS lead on P3 at Pete's insistence. Omitted P1. Bought Whillans harness and figure-of-8 for this.

with Pete McNulty (ICMC)
RichardMc 03/May/75 Lead
with Ken Salter, Betty Seifert
Mark Kemball 12/Apr/75 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
Hidden ?/Apr/75 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 27/May/73 Lead

Mike fell into sea at bottom of first pitch. I had to lead whole route whilst he dried out.

with Mike Butler
Tom V ?/Mar/72 -
with Dave Garner
eroica64 21/Feb/71 Lead
with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker
mikej 25/May/69 AltLd

We had a grandstand view of EWD leading the first ascent of his new route If just to our right.

with Bill Church
mikej 18/May/69 AltLd dnf

Forgot my rock boots! As a consolation we observed the first ascent of Igdrazil at the back of the Zawn by the Holliwell bros, including a huge rock trundle created by Les while he was leading.

with Wil Hurford
Seymore Butt ??/1968 Lead
with Keith Roberts
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 84
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 79
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set