Rockfax Description
A great route, and the most compelling line on this wall. Whilst there are no stopper moves, the climbing is sustained and involved throughout. Start from the foot of the rock gully by a block belay, about 10m down and left from the start of Red Wall.
1) 4c, 35m. Move left into the sandy groove, and take the easiest line up and left, following the fault-line to a sloping ledge.
2) 5b, 45m. This pitch tackles the continuation of the large sandy fault/chimney/crack. Climb up past a shallow depression, and make a committing move to gain the start of the corner. Continue up this, passing two sloping ledges, and belay on the third which is to the left of the final corner.
3) 4b, 14m. Move back into the main corner and follow a line up this; great care is needed with both rock and protection. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome outing up another of RHRW's lovely chimneys. Friendly and well protected for a route on this cliff!

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, The Road to Shibboleth, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

southern_smit 24/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

ab down the left using 60m ropes made for a exciting outing making a 4 pitch route pitching out the grassy aproach. great route really enjoyed it

Hidden 17/Sep/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/17 2nd
Flavio 25/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Absolute epic on the ab down. So windy that the ab rope resembled a fur-ball 15m right to the line of abseil. Impossible to get closer while hanging like a punter in space with no slack to pull through the belay device. Almost considered getting rescued, tugged for ages and some of the rock broke off freeing the rope... took an enormous swing. The route was good route though!

Hidden ??/2017 -
Greg Cunningham 28/Nov/16 AltLd
with Rich Cross
The Grist 31/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Really enjoyed this.

Hidden 23/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
pete johnson 23/Sep/16 AltLd rpt

Wild and windy. Blown about and almost off the crag. 80m Ab rope blown back up and over the top of the cliff!

Hidden 28/Aug/16 2nd
Adam Long 27/Aug/16 AltLd

Faffy approach via promontory. Fun climbing, some wacky rock at the top

with Jason Pickles
Hidden 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S
geoff b 13/Aug/16 AltLd

Mark's first route on Red Walls. Done in 2 pitches: loads of cams to protect it & more pleasant than some of the other routes hereabouts.

with Mark D
DaveThexton 05/Aug/16 AltLd
with Dave Searle
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 04/Oct/15 Lead
with Metal
mr mills 26/Sep/15 AltLd rpt

Pitch 1&2 apparently I did a slight variation on the start of P2 which Al thought was harder than the original, I thought it was ok ...

with alun hughes
Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

2 pitches, belaying at Blue Remebered belay.

Adam Ellwood 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Rich
dan gibson 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
pete johnson 20/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
with Chris Parkin
Duncan Campbell 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Did in 2 big pitches, I led P1 to the Blue Remembered Hills Belay, Bubbles Led to the top. Prob 5a, 5b for the pitch grades. First time on Red Walls. Keen for more... I think! Soft E2 (but serious!)

with Bubbles
Hidden 01/Sep/14 AltLd
Martin Cooper 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Excellent Approached by ab straight to Red Wall start. Could have been further L to bottom of pillar and start of P2 Wendigo. P1 go up slanting ramp E2 5b

with Stan
Brannock 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First ascent since the bans came off, very dirty. More like e2, very good though.

Martin Haworth 09/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
Steve Long ??/2014 -
Steve Long ??/2014 -
Derek Ryden 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Better and slightly easier than Red Wall

with Elfyn Jones
Martin Haworth 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt
tim newton 09/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
AJM 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and an extended p3 from the lower sloping ledge - Toms lead on the main pitch and he had used every runner above a size 5 wire by that point! P2 even to the higher ledge is more like 35-40m than the 50m quoted in North Wales Rock. E2 5b, we thought a bit more sustained than Red Wall but no move as hard as the Red Wall crux. Good climbing, good route!

Hidden 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead
Andrew Sloan 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.Beautiful rock but no idea how it gets E3 as was a pretty soft 5b. I've done far more demanding E1s.

Martin Haworth 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, quite serious but only worth E2.

with Andy
mr mills 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with sion
McGuinness 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Mills
piersg ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
david morse 29/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

stunning line, much more solid than red wall. Bring plenty of big wires and slings. amazing

with chris todd
Hidden 29/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 26/Sep/10 AltLd
with Chris Parkin
philhilo 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Very easy although comprehensive guide book made no sense - go down and left???? Up and right from 15m up Escape Route. Did technical crux through bulge. Misha the rest.

with misha
Misha 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

First route on Red Wall proper. Amazing rock formations giving interesting 3D climbing, never hard but fairly sustained. A bit of a jugfest really which at times felt like a 5+ at the wall! Not a great deal of gear though. Led P2, though I think Phil ended up leading the first 10m or so of the 'official' P2, which included the technical crux. No way is this E3 - easy E2. Thought it had an easier crux than Red Wall but was more sustained. It's not the grade that counts though but the experience.

with Phil
Hidden 09/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Lenny 26/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Steve
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd
willoates 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

belayed in the wrong place twice, and found it quite run out coming up to the corner, easy climbing tho, was nice.

with john
Owain Llewelyn 13/Aug/10 Lead
with Dad
centurion05 07/Aug/10 AltLd
with patch
Hidden 07/Aug/10 AltLd
Jen Crook 07/Aug/10 2nd
with Andy Woolston, Rob Patchett
phil64 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
centurion05 ??/2010 AltLd
with patch
Hidden ??/2010 -
Luke Brooks 24/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 13/Sep/08 AltLd


with Dave Almomd
WB 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

easy for grade

with Guy
GuyM ?/Aug/08 AltLd
with will
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 23/Oct/07 Lead
datoon 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Done in 2 pitches - which was quite scary!?!

with MJ
Hidden 07/Oct/07 AltLd
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Hidden 28/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 05/Aug/06 -
pauldrew 05/Aug/06 2nd
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
switch ??/2005 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 09/Oct/04 Lead
with Lun
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 08/Sep/02 2nd rpt
with KM
Ian Jones ??/2001 Lead O/S

Not E3 and NOT ***.

with Karen Ghiselli
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/98 AltLd
sadams 28/Sep/97 AltLd
with Hugh Cottom
Steve Crowe 27/Sep/97 Lead O/S

Great climbing, memorable route.

with KM
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Roget 30/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with jon
michael burrows 03/Aug/96 AltLd rpt
with steve ward
frost ?/Jul/96 AltLd
with S Raw
Hidden 15/Oct/95 AltLd
Hidden 15/Oct/95 AltLd
duncan ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
Hidden ??/1993 -
Hidden 19/Sep/92 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
jcw ??/1987 -
with Simon Donowho
Neil McA 13/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Satish Patki
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden 08/Sep/84 Lead
mikej 18/Sep/82 AltLd
with Mike Byles
mikej 09/Aug/79 Lead dnf

Got put off when a big block broke off while I was standing on it.

with Mike Byles
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Falko 12/Apr/75 AltLd O/S

Wendigo, Rat Race and Big Groove in a day. Pete Holden (rarely given to effervescence) commented "a good day lads".

with Howard Lancashire
Pete Nugent ??/1945 AltLd
with Andy Gill
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High E3
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High E1
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High 5c
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