Excellent wall climbing, on solid rock once out of Red Wall. The route has reasonably good protection and is sustained at an interesting but never desperate level. Start as for Red Wall.
1) 4c, 34m. As for Red Wall, P1.
2) 5c, 50m. Follow Red Wall for about 10m to a move right that leads to a sandy cave. From a peg at its right-hand side, move around onto a red wall. Go straight up, then move a little to the left, passing the remains of a peg, before gaining a small hanging groove. From the top of this, bold and technical moves left lead to larger holds and a looser finish. An exit up the chimney to the right is another option. © Rockfax
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