Rockfax Description
Excellent wall climbing, on solid rock once out of Red Wall. The route has reasonably good protection and is sustained at an interesting but never desperate level. Start as for Red Wall.
1) 4c, 34m. As for Red Wall, P1.
2) 5c, 50m. Follow Red Wall for about 10m to a move right that leads to a sandy cave. From a peg at its right-hand side, move around onto a red wall. Go straight up, then move a little to the left, passing the remains of a peg, before gaining a small hanging groove. From the top of this, bold and technical moves left lead to larger holds and a looser finish. An exit up the chimney to the right is another option. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

FlavioL1989 25/Aug Lead O/S
with Jenny
JendeHoxar 25/Aug 2nd
wynaptomos 13/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Aug 2nd rpt
Alex Mason 20/Jan Lead O/S

Awesome route. Very intimidating with some sections pressing blindly on into the unknown. Ace. Felt more like E4 but I am fat and weak at the moment.

Hidden 25/Oct/16 AltLd
Hidden 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
GeoffG 08/Oct/16 2nd

great pitch. bit too hard for a warm up. started from the sandy cave.

Brannock 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1,

Martin Haworth 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, Absolute top quality wall climbing in an awesome location on a superb day. Scary getting into the sandy cave, then once you pull onto the wall it's committing and hard sustained climbing all the way. Mainly good gear but a decent run out with hard moves when you leave the groove and go up and left.

pete johnson 04/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
geoff b 04/Sep/16 AltLd

Easy, tho' sandy, P1 followed by a sustained P2 which Pete led with some style. Nice climbing so long as you can cling on long enough. Thank heavens the holds got BIG at the top.

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 29/Oct/15 Lead
Derek Ryden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Parkin
Neil McA 03/Oct/15 2nd rpt

Felt harder than 20 years ago!

with Andrew James
wynaptomos 02/Oct/15 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Oct/15 AltLd dog
Hidden 18/Sep/15 Lead
climbingpixie 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Awesome route! Felt pretty hard and sustained, with techy and pressing climbing between decent rests. Found the moves up the face, once I'd pulled out of the sandy cave, the hardest but that might have been a reach issue. Gear was pretty good, if spaced at times, and most of the rock was solid.

with Andy
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 19/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 19/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
tim newton 06/Sep/14 Lead β

Lead P1 and then P2 on mostly Rach's gear

Rachel Slater 06/Sep/14 2nd

I took an age leading the second pitch until I got about 3/4s of the way up and just felt so psyched out I came back down and Tim lead it. Not having a great few days!

Rich Kirby 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Total quality. A great day on RW.

PaulTanton 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead rpt
JBO 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Did this with Dad on his birthday, he cruised it in a very relaxed fashion but he won't let me lead anything on Red Wall:( anyway well done dad!

Steve Long 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I've done this route several times. Awesome. The final few metres are a quite worrying though, suggest you step right to join the chimney unless you want to savour the position longer.

centurion05 01/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch of Rapture of the deep by mistake to the obvious old bolt belay. Good solid second pitch, take a lot of runners. 3 star.

with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 01/Aug/11 AltLd

Not sure if I was just having one of those days but the main pitch felt pretty tough to me. Brilliant sustained climbing.

with Andy
Hidden 14/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
philhilo 26/Sep/10 2nd

Steep with solid 5c moves, but never out of sight of good holds. 'Technical bold crux' sequence seemed straight forward and well protected, top section (going straight up) seemed more sustained until....I departed with a large undercut still clutched in my hand! The joys of climbing on cheese.

with misha
Misha 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic! The sandy cave was a bizarre feature. Was glad that the rock was solid out on the face as the climbing was pretty sustained at 5b/c and a bit runout, in fact mostly climbing above gear. Finished up some fairly steep cheese, thankfully on large holds - worryingly, Phil managed to pull one of them off on second (presented to Su as a present and due to be turned into a club award!). Took 1hr 25mins to lead it, Phil took about 25mins to second, back at the car at 8pm and back home at 1am - another great sea cliff weekend.

with Phil
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Pete Graham 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rick Graham
IOAN D 16/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Mills
Brown 09/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Max
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/96 AltLd
michael burrows 03/Aug/96 AltLd rpt

this was my second attempt,lowered off the peg on the previous attempt

with steve ward
Steve Crowe 04/Nov/95 AltLd O/S

Karin led the crux pitch.

with KM
Hidden 15/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/95 2nd
Hidden 15/Oct/95 2nd
michael burrows 13/Aug/95 Lead dnf

got to peg

with steve ward
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Campbell42 07/Sep/91 AltLd O/S
with Chris Gooder
wynaptomos ?/Sep/89 Lead rpt
jon 26/Sep/87 Lead
with H
andy gittins ??/1985 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
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High E2
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Low E2
Votes cast 16
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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