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Rockfax Description
A great route, with tricky route finding on the main pitch, and an appalling belay, which can be avoided by linking the second and third pitches. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay.
1) 5a, 34m. Move left to a right-facing groove and climb this to a ledge. Up and right is a left-facing groove, between you and this feature is some exciting but ultimately easy ground. Move through the weirdness and follow the groove, which leads right to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Head up and slightly left, into the sandy chimney fault-line. Follow this to just below a peg, where the way forward looks impossible. Traverse left here, for about 4m, until you can make a move up into another chimney, follow this to a shallow depression and a host of ironmongery and make a poor but memorable belay on these stubs and some cams in what appears to be dust, or carry on up P3 to the top.
3) 5a, 20m. Continue up the chimney line, passing numerous spikes and dodgy rock, to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The starting rung on the foot ladder of extreme ledge shuffling.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The Road to Shibboleth, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, 30 For My 30s, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.

Feedback

User Date Notes
barny 1 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Err. Exciting, I think that's the word. Epic on dusty/scary but not AFAICT loose rock but what a position! I would advise not thinking of this route as one to push your grade on because failure is not a viable option - much more sensible to do this when you're confident/competent on E2+/3 and fancy the adventure. YHABW - caveat emptor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Err. Exciting, I think that's the word. Epic on dusty/scary but not AFAICT loose rock but what a position! I would advise not thinking of this route as one to push your grade on because failure is not a viable option - much more sensible to do this when you're confident/competent on E2+/3 and fancy the adventure. YHABW - caveat emptor.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 40
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Resolution Direct

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)