A great route, with tricky route finding on the main pitch, and an appalling belay, which can be avoided by linking the second and third pitches. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay.
1) 5a, 34m. Move left to a right-facing groove and climb this to a ledge. Up and right is a left-facing groove, between you and this feature is some exciting but ultimately easy ground. Move through the weirdness and follow the groove, which leads right to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Head up and slightly left, into the sandy chimney fault-line. Follow this to just below a peg, where the way forward looks impossible. Traverse left here, for about 4m, until you can make a move up into another chimney, follow this to a shallow depression and a host of ironmongery and make a poor but memorable belay on these stubs and some cams in what appears to be dust, or carry on up P3 to the top.
3) 5a, 20m. Continue up the chimney line, passing numerous spikes and dodgy rock, to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The starting rung on the foot ladder of extreme ledge shuffling.
North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The Road to Shibboleth, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, 30 For My 30s, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.
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