Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Summer 2022
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
Rockfax Description
A great route, with tricky route finding on the main pitch, and an appalling belay, which can be avoided by linking the second and third pitches. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay.
1) 5a, 34m. Move left to a right-facing groove and climb this to a ledge. Up and right is a left-facing groove, between you and this feature is some exciting but ultimately easy ground. Move through the weirdness and follow the groove, which leads right to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Head up and slightly left, into the sandy chimney faultline. Follow this to just below a peg, where the way forward looks impossible. Traverse left here, for about 4m, until you can make a move up into another chimney. Follow this to a shallow depression and a host of ironmongery, then make a poor but memorable belay on these stubs and some cams in what appears to be dust, or carry on up P3 to the top.
3) 5a, 20m. Continue up the chimney line, passing numerous spikes and dodgy rock, to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The starting rung on the foot ladder of extreme ledge shuffling.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Road to Shibboleth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 30 For My 30s , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , North Wales To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| planetmarshall | 27 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found both the GroundUp and Rockfax descriptions to be unnecessarily confusing. The second pitch goes in a plumb straight line, it is logical, never "looks impossible" and there is never any need to traverse left. Route finding couldn't be easier. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Found both the GroundUp and Rockfax descriptions to be unnecessarily confusing. The second pitch goes in a plumb straight line, it is logical, never "looks impossible" and there is never any need to traverse left. Route finding couldn't be easier. |
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| barny | 1 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Err. Exciting, I think that's the word. Epic on dusty/scary but not AFAICT loose rock but what a position! I would advise not thinking of this route as one to push your grade on because failure is not a viable option - much more sensible to do this when you're confident/competent on E2+/3 and fancy the adventure. YHABW - caveat emptor. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Err. Exciting, I think that's the word. Epic on dusty/scary but not AFAICT loose rock but what a position! I would advise not thinking of this route as one to push your grade on because failure is not a viable option - much more sensible to do this when you're confident/competent on E2+/3 and fancy the adventure. YHABW - caveat emptor. |
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| Andy Stewart2 | 15 Sep, 2018 |
Show βeta
βeta: From the ledge at the top of the short right facing corner (start of pitch 1), don't go straight on up the quartzy vein like we did, even if it does look attractive (Red Haze- not the best warm up.). Never found the traverse on pitch 2, but followed the obvious line to a step left at a steep block with a welcome spike runner just below the crap belay. Awesome pitch- no pushover at the grade! Although it pains me to admit...If only we'd had the Rockfax description! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: From the ledge at the top of the short right facing corner (start of pitch 1), don't go straight on up the quartzy vein like we did, even if it does look attractive (Red Haze- not the best warm up.). Never found the traverse on pitch 2, but followed the obvious line to a step left at a steep block with a welcome spike runner just below the crap belay. Awesome pitch- no pushover at the grade! Although it pains me to admit...If only we'd had the Rockfax description! |
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Primate
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)