No description has been contributed for this climb.

steve_gibbs 20/Oct/17 2nd rpt
with Colin Knowles
AngelaC 14/Oct/17 2nd
Swanage luvver 13/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Did this route about 18 years ago but was stopped yesterday above the little slab above roof as the moves to the hidden wire placement had serious ground fall possibilities if i messed it up, so ended up shuffling leftwards onto the E2 which seemed more amenable, and finished on that. Cant believe that there is no real pro for that move at that height. Maybe i missed something!

Nono 08/Jul/17 2nd
fuzzysheep01 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Think I did a mixture of this and the E2 and E3 on either side - found route finding surprisingly tricky, particularly near top. Top end 5b at least and top end E1 if not E2.

with Nono
rurp 27/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Hard and serious moves up and right to blind gear placements in thin crack. Awkward.

Graeme Hammond 30/May/17 Lead O/S

Good climbing, a bit bold near the start getting onto the slab and at the end but well protected middle section.

with Chris Hindley
steve-grigg 23/May/17 Lead O/S
kierankeavy 23/May/17 2nd O/S
MD 07/May/17 Lead O/S

Felt hard 5b not 5a/b per the CC guide book. Had to place a blind wire to protect this move so felt like hard E1 to me. Not sure why this only gets two stars. It follows a more logical line than anything on the musketeers buttress and is more sustained.

with Mark H
mikeski 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
rosiehawker 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
evhall 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Tim Bray
David Clover ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
ripper 18/Jun/16 Lead
jon_gill1 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/16 Lead O/S
Roget 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Nichols 15/May/16 2nd O/S
with Roger
Marktrin 07/May/16 TR dnf
with Eddy
timtimpeggy ??/2016 -
jordana86 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Stickle Tarn 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
cwildblood 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Jack Porteous 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Doug miller 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
cem 02/Aug/15 Lead β

First time I had led it.

with Deniz Sumengen
Andrew Sloan 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

A big pitch. The crux on the first half is delicate and suboptimally protected.

with Tim
No? Yes! 27/Jun/15 Lead
No? Yes! 23/Jun/15 Lead
with Derek
bpmclimb 21/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 21/Jun/15 2nd
Didymus 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
Nick Russell 11/May/15 2nd

Solid in the grade. High heel-hook mantel/rockover above small, blind gear is not a move I expect to find on a limestone E1.

alastairbegley 11/May/15 Lead O/S

Felt pretty solid 5b to me, and certainly no pushover at E1.

jsmcfarland 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Routefinding is hard and at various points there is lots of checking out the next holds before retreating to resting holds while deciding on where to go. Good enough climb though lots of awkward and bold-feeling moves. How the CC guide can justify E1 5a/b is beyond me, E1 5b+ would be more appropriate...!

with Uncle Kev
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
3 Names 31/Aug/14 2nd rpt
steve_gibbs 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
zcsharp 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ash Sayers 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
frank ramsay 17/Aug/14 Lead
with Aaron
Aaron Lines 17/Aug/14 2nd
NickNixon 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Julian M
gripped01 18/May/14 Lead
with Elaine Smithson
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd
Alex Winter 03/May/14 2nd O/S

Really good, sustained climbing. Compared to the other routes we did at Shorn Cliff, this is pretty solid at the grade.

with Ben Darby
Cheese Monkey 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Tough moves lower down, and blindly placing gear in the flake was interesting. Didnt see any groundfall potential though! Not runout at top either, loads of gear, well good top half

with Alex W
evhall 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

BETA*** Number 3 nut fits perfectly in blind placement

with Steve P
Huntlyfiddler 07/Jul/13 2nd
bpmclimb 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Clare
BFG 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Ollie B 06/Jul/13 Lead β

Belayed ben then led on his gear.

with B.Fitzgerald
Carl Watkins 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
monsteratt 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Good route. One or two tricky moves lower down then a bit of a romp to the top.

with Carl
Trisha Murphy 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Paul Kidd
pearson9596 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jim
matt1024 02/Jun/13 2nd β
will_benfold 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt


with Lynne Williams
kelliroberts3 18/May/13 Lead O/S
clams ?/May/13 Lead
with Jim
mes32 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S


with Wilki
Tubs 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with AJM
Billg 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
hutchay 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S

lead after falling of Running Hot just above the peg.

with Tom
taff raymond 05/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 27/Oct/12 2nd
bpmclimb 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Andy Clarke 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

A fine climb: sustained and interesting thoughout. Strangely, given 5a/b in current guide. Maybe I missed something, but pulling through overlap felt stiffish 5b and harder than any move on Run for Home. Perhaps it's 5a if you use the tree! Unlike Shorn Cliff to be mean about grades!

with Johnny
leon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Jim Brooke 05/May/12 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 05/May/12 2nd
richsmithinbristol 05/May/12 Lead O/S

The bottom section can be protected with a micro wire if you look hard enough!

Luuuuuke 13/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Si
peaches69 13/Mar/12 2nd β
with luke
Hidden 09/Mar/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 09/Mar/12 2nd rpt

Falling off before placing wires in the "hidden" crack would result in groundfall.

with Helen S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd
Sam W 29/Aug/11 Lead
eduardo 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ian W
stvredmond 09/Aug/11 Lead

Falling off ob the first 10m is not recommended, Good climbing. ***MASSIVE WOBBLY BLOCK ABOUT 5m FROM THE TOP, WHERE YOU START TO GO RIGHT BACK TO THE LARGE CONCRETION

Helnorris 09/Aug/11 2nd

Really sustained route, doesnt let up untill the 3/4 ledge. Good climbing though.

Hidden 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 04/Aug/11 2nd O/S

nice warm up

garywong 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
GarethHall 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
chalkiesurf 04/Sep/10 -
with Kieith Barns
Hidden 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
RagingPuffin 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Emma Ross
Ceridwen 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Uber Mike
ian d f 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla, Mark
markfromstoke 23/May/10 2nd
with Ian
Paul Bowen 22/May/10 2nd
3 Names 22/May/10 2nd
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead
tobyb 12/Apr/10 2nd O/S
tom.e 10/Apr/10 Lead β
with Charlie Everett
Stone Muppet 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with tl
Chubbard 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Well scary at the bottom! Ace route.

JimR 14/Mar/10 -
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Ian JL 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
d_meacher 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Joe Nunn 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with pete
poey50 30/May/09 Lead O/S

Really good but bold in places.

with Rowan15
pezzerrr 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
chris sm 28/Feb/09 2nd rpt
with Paul Osborn
bpmclimb 17/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with Tom
thomasadixon 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Brian
SC 31/Aug/08 2nd

Steep but very good climb. My arms still hurt.

martinazando 25/Aug/08 2nd O/S
al99 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
cem 20/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Pete Horn, Mark O'Neill
just one more 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Max B
beardy mike ??/2008 Lead O/S

Great climbing and strenuous in places. A fall whilst placinf the wires in the hidden crack after the first mini crux would be serious...

Dr Caterpillar 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Adam
Circus 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Felt a bit scary at start and finish. Nice though.

with Loz
richardr ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Quite a bold start I thought

Tim W 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Jenny Edwards
Hidden 16/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 15/Mar/07 2nd
bpmclimb 15/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Thoroughly enjoyable

with Clare
Andrew1 03/Aug/06 Lead
with Juliet Parker Smith
Wil Treasure 11/Jul/06 Lead
with Malcolm
Hidden 25/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/04 Lead
Brucifer 01/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
furry 16/May/04 2nd O/S
with Phil B
Boxy 09/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/03 2nd
cem 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Rob Smithies, Neil Northrop
greedo ??/2003 2nd
with Matt goater
Hidden 03/Sep/02 Lead O/S
sims 17/Aug/02 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 15/Jul/00 -
with Naomi Walker, Martin Flint
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
alan moore ??/2000 -

One of the harder and better HVS's at Shorncliff.

mikej 17/Jul/98 Lead
with Nick Salmon
chris sm ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Ruth Taylor
Hidden 17/Jul/97 2nd
Nigel Coe 10/Jun/97 2nd
with Dick Hanson
goi.ashmore 23/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
Tim Sparrow ?/Mar/97 Lead
ericinbristol ??/1993 Lead β

Came within a foot or so of hitting the ground from a long way up. Got straight back on and led it clean.

with Sue
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 36
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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