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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Start up Run for Home until level with the initial thread. Step right to a poor peg. Bold climbing directly up the wall on snappy rock eventually merges with the upper section of flake on Easy Rider. Continue and where Easy Rider heads right finish direct. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Firefly

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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