UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
A great multi-pitch sport climb. The first pitch is a very popular challenge in its own right. Begin at a series of left-facing blind corners that are usually very well chalked.
1) 7a, 24m. Highly technical moves are need to exit the corners, from where wall climbing leads past a double-bolt lower-off (used for those doing the first pitch only) to a belay at a tree.
2) 6c, 10m. Climb right of the bolt and then the crack above to a large ledge that runs under the upper walls. Climbing directly past the bolt is much harder than 6c. Belay on the right.
3) 7a, 17m. Climb the steep crack on the right to a break and then pull up left to a groove. Follow the wall above to a ledge and bolt belay.
4) 4c, 9m. Take the line of bolts heading leftwards to a belay and abseil point (shared with Kaiser Wall). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Former E5, now fully bolted.
F7a,F6c+,F7a,F5.
First Pitch is the best, 2nd pitch is desperate trying to go direct over the bolt on the slab, can take it a lot easier further right but a bit off route.
Third pitch is a soft touch 7a but again really good.
Final pitch is loose.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Becky's ticklist , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 7As with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 9 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Matt ward
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Matt ward
ericinbristol 20 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not fully bolted. End of P1 has a substantial easy section that's a bit crumbly protected by two old pegs. Start of P2 has a nastily high first bolt above the tree belay (wires on the right), followed by a new peg and then an old peg. Belay on the ledge at end of P2 is crappy old tat: back it up by reaching up to the first bolt of P3. You might find a wire useful before bolt 4 on P3. Take some small wires, and take a couple of slings for belaying off the oak tree at the end of P1. Use 50 metre double ropes to clip bolts and wires as needed and also to get to the ground from the ab station on the right (facing in) of the ledge from which P3 starts.
Show beta
βeta: Not fully bolted. End of P1 has a substantial easy section that's a bit crumbly protected by two old pegs. Start of P2 has a nastily high first bolt above the tree belay (wires on the right), followed by a new peg and then an old peg. Belay on the ledge at end of P2 is crappy old tat: back it up by reaching up to the first bolt of P3. You might find a wire useful before bolt 4 on P3. Take some small wires, and take a couple of slings for belaying off the oak tree at the end of P1. Use 50 metre double ropes to clip bolts and wires as needed and also to get to the ground from the ab station on the right (facing in) of the ledge from which P3 starts.

Logged Ascents

161 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pet Cemetery

Grade: 7a ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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