UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
12m.

Rockfax Description
A good climb that follows a trio of right-facing corners past two substantial sets of overhangs. There is an unlikely looking spot for a rest below the upper overhang. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The groove system through the roofs at the LH end of the crag. Pull over the top roof rightwards to jugs which lead up left to the lower-off. Excellent climbing.

Matt Ward, Gordon A Jenkin, John Wilson, John Shaw 04/Sep/1988.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Ban-y-Gor Master , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
Saqib 4 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route*** you can still fall off near the top. There's a left hand side-pull/pinch just before a bigish throw to a jug (half way up the route).
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route*** you can still fall off near the top. There's a left hand side-pull/pinch just before a bigish throw to a jug (half way up the route).
Johnlenham 1 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The Venus flytrap of climbs
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Venus flytrap of climbs
chri_5 19 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Got it on my second attempt. Whilst resting before the crux look for the undercling at the back of the roof. Go out right and reach for the jug above. After that, it’s jugs all the way to the anchor.
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Got it on my second attempt. Whilst resting before the crux look for the undercling at the back of the roof. Go out right and reach for the jug above. After that, it’s jugs all the way to the anchor.
springfall2008 4 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: From the ledge you need to go out right to the good hold, match above on a good jug and then climb directly upwards until you are stable and you can step back left to the rings.
Show beta
βeta: From the ledge you need to go out right to the good hold, match above on a good jug and then climb directly upwards until you are stable and you can step back left to the rings.
Tarra19 30 Mar, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: Doesn't follow the line through the overlap as shown on the topo, goes right instead!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Doesn't follow the line through the overlap as shown on the topo, goes right instead!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
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