Rockfax Description
A traverse line 3m below Heart of Darkness gives excellent sustained climbing. Start as for Heart of Darkness - p.302.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb up to the break and traverse leftwards to the belay on Razorbill. Down climb 2m from the break to belay on the large ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Continue along the break to belay on Blowin' in the Wind. Option to escape from here.
3) 5b. Various options exist. Finish up Blowin' in the Wind or Chimes of Freedom, both of which give 3-star finishes. The original route continued along the break for another pitch of traversing, which is good, but it leaves a poor vertical pitch to escape from, past Seaside Salamander. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A traverse line 3m below Heart of Darkness. Excellent sustained climbing which gets surprisingly little attention. Start from the same point as you would for Heart of Darkness.
1. First pitch is about 35m and goes to the belay on Razorbill - downclimb 2m from the break to belay on the large ledge.
2. Back up to the break, and onwards to belay somewhere around Blowin' in the Wind. Option to escape from here, or up Chimes.
3. Onwards again for around 20m, until you can start a rising traverse for about 8m up and left to a ledge on the edge of the choss chute.
4. Sketchy loose rock with little protection to the top-out. Suggest leaving an ab-rope in place.
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Bosherston Head)