UKC

Restricted Access

Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.

A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.

Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 31 March to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:

- Unrestricted (year round access)

- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August

- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September

Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.

Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions. 

Unrestricted 

  • Damocles Buttress (pg 29)
  • Sunset Wall (pg 81)
  • Landing Craft Bay: First Buttress South (pg 102), First Buttress North (pg 105) & Second Buttress North (pg 111)
  • Flying Buttress Main Cliff: from The Exorcist (pg 128) to Flying Dutchman (pg 136) inclusive. Access to this area must be via the steps down to the Battery. Do not walk direct across the slope above Battery Cliff/St Patrick’s Buttress. Please also take care to stay close to the edge on the easy way down to ensure nesting sea birds are not disturbed. Lundy is one of only two locations in England where Storm Petrels nest, hiding in walls when they come to land at night. This site is new and any disturbance in 2022 will lead to closure in 2023.
  • The Earthquake (pg 153)
  • Picnic Bay Cliff (pg 195)
  • The Devil’s Slide Area: Narrow Zawn (pg 243) to The Fortress (pg 278)
  • Torrey Canyon Cliff: Penitence (pg 289) to Blow Out (pg 290) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
  • Headline Promontory: The Column (pg 316) Margin (pg 321) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
  • The East Coast Quarries (pg 354-359)

Restricted 31 March - 14 August

  • Kistvaen Buttress (pg 29) to Sunset Promontory (pg 97) inclusive
  • St Patrick’s Buttress (pg 112) to Battery Cliff (pg 124) inclusive
  • Flying Buttress from Prenumbra (pg 136) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
  • Dihedral Zawn (pg 197) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
  • St John’s Stone (pg 282) to Gannet’s Buttress (pg 360) and Gannet’s Rock (pg 362) inclusive

Restricted 31 March - 15 September

  • Black Jack Zawn, Lifeboat Buttress & Jemima Buttress (pg 125)
  • Flying Buttress: Prenumbra to The Black Pig inclusive (pg 136 – 138)
  • Devil’s Tower area (pg 162) & Big Zawn (pg 208)
  • Cormorant Zawn (pg 335)
  • Storm Zawn (pg 336) & North Light Channel (pg 327)
  • Gannets’ Rock & Gannets’ Buttress (pg 354)

These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.

Climb the SW side of the 'Needle'

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Sub Extreme South West Sea Stacks , Climbs To Do On Lundy , Lundy , Ultimate Sea Stack , 2020/21 Trips , HS-HVS adventures

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User Date Notes
jon59 19 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Today, I have rigged the descent abseil from the island cliff with a new carabiner and orange 12mm rope and rigged the descent from the pinnacle with the same and removed all existing crap tat…enjoy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Today, I have rigged the descent abseil from the island cliff with a new carabiner and orange 12mm rope and rigged the descent from the pinnacle with the same and removed all existing crap tat…enjoy
acrawley 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Super route on the needle but somewhat bold for the grade. Once around the arete there is long run-out before gear. More like HVS 4b for the seriousness? I decided to leave a sling and maillon on the top as the existing tat is badly corroded/worn and couldn't be trusted for the abseil. Initial access to the needle is somewhat problematic. We opted for an abseil from almost opposite the pinnacle (NOT near the rock fall). It was relatively stable and straightforward but an 85m abseil rope is required (100m even better). After the needle we exited via Punchbowl arete on Punchbowl cliff (S) which involves an easy rock-hop at low/mid tide. It's an ok route but has a dirty and loose top-out before a long grass slope to a small outcrop of rock on the left (looking up) for the belay. The belay takes a medium cam and a couple of nuts. This exit definitely needs the full length of a 60m rope (we had about 1m spare) All-in-all a fabulous day out and well worth the effort.
Show beta
βeta: Super route on the needle but somewhat bold for the grade. Once around the arete there is long run-out before gear. More like HVS 4b for the seriousness? I decided to leave a sling and maillon on the top as the existing tat is badly corroded/worn and couldn't be trusted for the abseil. Initial access to the needle is somewhat problematic. We opted for an abseil from almost opposite the pinnacle (NOT near the rock fall). It was relatively stable and straightforward but an 85m abseil rope is required (100m even better). After the needle we exited via Punchbowl arete on Punchbowl cliff (S) which involves an easy rock-hop at low/mid tide. It's an ok route but has a dirty and loose top-out before a long grass slope to a small outcrop of rock on the left (looking up) for the belay. The belay takes a medium cam and a couple of nuts. This exit definitely needs the full length of a 60m rope (we had about 1m spare) All-in-all a fabulous day out and well worth the effort.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lundy

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 16
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Devil's Slide

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)

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