Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
This makes the most of the rock scar left when Shadrach's chimney collapsed. From the bay below the rock scar, move up and right to gain the base of the groove. Bridge up this to where the crack goes right. Arrange good gear, and make a hard move or slap for a good hold up and right. Use this hold to get established on the sloping ledge before traversing left to join Meshach-Shadrach. Finish up this. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A line where momentum may be of assistance in the lower half, and a suitable new addition to the face after the loss of the multiple large blocks forming the good and popular Shadrach. Start beneath the obvious large rock scarred corner groove, taking a belay just to the left of the base of the groove is recommended. Possible in one pitch with careful ropework.
1. 25m 6a. Gain the corner groove and climb this via bridging until it steepens. Step right onto a small ledge before committing to the overhang via an undercut where momentum can be used to gain the large jug above. From here step left and continue leftward via a hand traverse for 2m, then continue up to belay on the muddy ledge above the oak bush.
2. 15m 5b. Climb onto the block above the belay, cam placement out left. From the top of the block step right to gain the crack and commit to a tricky mantel. Continue up the crack through the short corner to finished straight up via flakes.
Ed Laver & Bede West 14/Jul/2019.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mark Leicester | 3 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Done this 3 times now and it’s a well protected steady route at max E2 6a - Ignore the fluttery heart and grade in the new guide! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Done this 3 times now and it’s a well protected steady route at max E2 6a - Ignore the fluttery heart and grade in the new guide! |
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| BMC Cymru | 13 Feb, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: There has been recent reports of a large loose block behind where the old pinnacle was. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: There has been recent reports of a large loose block behind where the old pinnacle was. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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The Path to Rome
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cilan Head)