Rockfax Description
A big undertaking that has a bold initial pitch and spectacular second. Start next to a two-pronged tree.
1) 5c, 26m. Climb boldly up the groove, past a small tree, to a peg at an overhang. Make difficult moves up and leftward then head up a wall to a ledge. Continue rightwards to a thread belay on the midway ledge right of a huge prow.
2) 5c, 24m. Head up left to the arete and a peg under the overhang. Pull up onto the face above and climb it (pegs) to the break below the next overhang. Go right and up a technical corner to another overhang. Traverse back left to gain a final short corner that access an earth bank and the top above this. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Ultimate E4 ticklist , Local E4's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gary Gibson | 9 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson |
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| luke townsend | 25 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: I will be going back next week hopefully to continue to clean it up and continue down the to the first pitch which currently has a broken ash tree form the woods behind it laid against the wall. I will remove this also and post again when I’ve given it a go! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I will be going back next week hopefully to continue to clean it up and continue down the to the first pitch which currently has a broken ash tree form the woods behind it laid against the wall. I will remove this also and post again when I’ve given it a go! |
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| luke townsend | 25 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: I have just rapped over and cleaned the top pitch of gendarmerie. I’m doing so I have removed some large blocks that made up the upper part of the flake that is used to surmount the first main overhang, and potentially a gear placement. (They we’re very very loose, and could easily have caused injury). I can’t comment on weather this has changed the difficulty of the route as I never climbed it before, but I would say it is still around the e4 5c mark. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I have just rapped over and cleaned the top pitch of gendarmerie. I’m doing so I have removed some large blocks that made up the upper part of the flake that is used to surmount the first main overhang, and potentially a gear placement. (They we’re very very loose, and could easily have caused injury). I can’t comment on weather this has changed the difficulty of the route as I never climbed it before, but I would say it is still around the e4 5c mark. |
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| Gary Gibson | 26 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Damon | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Damon |
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| Mattress | 18 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Firefly-Wurlitzer. Suggest avoiding until they have left. | βeta? | |
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βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Firefly-Wurlitzer. Suggest avoiding until they have left. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Flies Aloft
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)