Restricted Access
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
- All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
- Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply
- Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat
- No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
- Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
- No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
- No further new routing
Rockfax Description
Move up the wall to below the right-hand side of the overhang and then yard out along the lip and pull up to the ledge with a tree growing on it. Finish up the wall. Starting on the right of the lower wall and moving up to the overhang reduces the grade to 6b. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A one move wonder, climbing rock overhanging the climbers path.
Gary Gibson, Roy Thomas 10/May/1992.
Ticklists
CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Ban-y-Gor Master , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| JamesAsh | 3 Mar |
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βeta: Super fun moves, for sure worth doing | βeta? | |
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βeta: Super fun moves, for sure worth doing |
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| Simon Kitt | 14 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Joyfully overhanding and juggy. Lots of fun cut loose without too much fore arm pump. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Joyfully overhanding and juggy. Lots of fun cut loose without too much fore arm pump. |
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| Imedio | 28 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: The move to the first hold on the over hang (right of the second bolt) is a reachy left hand followed by a match on a REALLY good jug. Go again with the left to reach the upper of two ledges. Then just reach up and mantel. Geeat climb. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The move to the first hold on the over hang (right of the second bolt) is a reachy left hand followed by a match on a REALLY good jug. Go again with the left to reach the upper of two ledges. Then just reach up and mantel. Geeat climb. |
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| Saqib | 16 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Slightly run out | ||
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βeta: Slightly run out |
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| springfall2008 | 4 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Climb the pillar until you reach the good hold out right, then step left to the pocket (clip), match and put your left hand on the lower ledge, feet break free, now again match and then hands up to the higher good ledge, swing your feet up and stand up. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Climb the pillar until you reach the good hold out right, then step left to the pocket (clip), match and put your left hand on the lower ledge, feet break free, now again match and then hands up to the higher good ledge, swing your feet up and stand up. |
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| leigh | 22 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Left hand start - harder | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Left hand start - harder |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor
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Heady Days
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Ban-y-gor)