42m.

Rockfax Description
Thinner, more technical and much bolder than Scheherezade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Chipped and now sports three bolts, rather than a skyhook for the 7a crux as on the first ascent! so safer nowadays. still Technical, Start to the left of the central groove, follow the thin crack to a bolt. Step right and rock over then step up to a good ledge. Moving left and up past two more bolts to a shared lower off with Scheherezade. Direct start is about 6b.

A Woodward unseconded 10/Aug/1986

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LucaC 21 Oct TR RP Hard and slippery!
with Will
Hard and slippery!
with Will
Butel 23 Jun 2nd
Hidden 23 Jun Lead O/S
James Beaumont 28 May TR β Absolutely desperate!
with Max
Absolutely desperate!
with Max
JamesWilliams 4 May Lead dog couple of falls by the first bolt then clean to the top. followed an obvious line left into the top of Scheherezade just after the last bolt as seemed like the obvious line but then saw the direct holds on the way down
with Archie ball, Statement of Youth
couple of falls by the first bolt then clean to the top. followed an obvious line left into the top of Scheherezade just after the last bolt as seemed like the obvious line but then saw the direct holds on the way down
with Archie ball, Statement of Youth
asol 7 Jul, 2018 Lead G/U Came off the moves below 1st bolt first time.
Came off the moves below 1st bolt first time.
Dronz 16 May, 2018 Lead dog failed lead attempt with Owen a while ago, top roped it clean today. Fell off just before it eases well above the last bolt on the lead! Damn. Quite a scary one this, but good!
with will, Misha bach, Sam
failed lead attempt with Owen a while ago, top roped it clean today. Fell off just before it eases well above the last bolt on the lead! Damn. Quite a scary one this, but good!
with will, Misha bach, Sam
Sophie Nunn 2 Jul, 2017 2nd dog
with Ian L, feilx
with Ian L, feilx
feilx 2 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
with Gaetan L
with Gaetan L
Misha 11 Sep, 2016 Lead RP Fell off after going wrong on the last hard sequence, so annoying! Should have gone for R than than L hand on a hold as ended up standing up into a very insecure position with no hands and poor feet, so lost balance and went for a skid down the slab but perfectly safe as above the third bolt. Got back on and did it fine using R hand and moving slightly L to better foot and hand holds (sloping triangular flattie) just before it gets a lot easier. Stripped the draws and led it clean afterwards. That took a lot less time as on the first go spent a lot of time figuring out exactly where to go (and convincing myself to commit to the small footholds) since it wasn't chalked and the line does weave around a bit. The last hard bit was still a bit sketchy as the feet are very poor but managed it ok with the right beta. Definitely feels more run out than Scheherezade and the third bolt was a bit of a gripper clipper but on the whole it's more of a sport route as the hard bits are not far from the bolts. I thought there were several 6b moves/sequences or at least one 6b and several hard 6a, so significantly harder than Scheherezade and there's more to it compared to Heading the Shot. Hence at least 7a+, may be more like 7b, slate slabs are hard to grade for sport though. Couple of long reaches as well, wouldn't have wanted to be much shorter! So now I've done all the routes on the slab apart from Never Never Land... My excuses were it was getting chilly and windy...
Fell off after going wrong on the last hard sequence, so annoying! Should have gone for R than than L hand on a hold as ended up standing up into a very insecure position with no hands and poor feet, so lost balance and went for a skid down the slab but perfectly safe as above the third bolt. Got back on and did it fine using R hand and moving slightly L to better foot and hand holds (sloping triangular flattie) just before it gets a lot easier. Stripped the draws and led it clean afterwards. That took a lot less time as on the first go spent a lot of time figuring out exactly where to go (and convincing myself to commit to the small footholds) since it wasn't chalked and the line does weave around a bit. The last hard bit was still a bit sketchy as the feet are very poor but managed it ok with the right beta. Definitely feels more run out than Scheherezade and the third bolt was a bit of a gripper clipper but on the whole it's more of a sport route as the hard bits are not far from the bolts. I thought there were several 6b moves/sequences or at least one 6b and several hard 6a, so significantly harder than Scheherezade and there's more to it compared to Heading the Shot. Hence at least 7a+, may be more like 7b, slate slabs are hard to grade for sport though. Couple of long reaches as well, wouldn't have wanted to be much shorter! So now I've done all the routes on the slab apart from Never Never Land... My excuses were it was getting chilly and windy...
jacob shieldhouse hadley 28 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Very thin and quite technical! run out and sketchy 1st bolt clip, then once 2nd bolt is clipped its a lot easier!
Very thin and quite technical! run out and sketchy 1st bolt clip, then once 2nd bolt is clipped its a lot easier!
ChrisAllen 20 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2016 -
richiebongo 13 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
with paulo
with paulo
Ed morris 16 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S Packs it in from the word go. Relentlessly technical.
Packs it in from the word go. Relentlessly technical.
Keendan 4 Jul, 2013 Lead RP 2nd go. Also went left at the last bolt, probably not as bold as direct.
2nd go. Also went left at the last bolt, probably not as bold as direct.
rustaldo 4 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf cool route, struggled with the last 1-2 moves heading direct up to the belay. feet were killing me!
with Dan Heath
cool route, struggled with the last 1-2 moves heading direct up to the belay. feet were killing me!
with Dan Heath
samrad 16 Oct, 2010 Lead dnf wasn't feeling it and couldn't commit to run-outs. great moves tho. really stretchy to clip bolts.
with crad
wasn't feeling it and couldn't commit to run-outs. great moves tho. really stretchy to clip bolts.
with crad
barni 11 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf
Brown 17 Oct, 2009 TR rpt Failed on the lead first.
with Pete
Failed on the lead first.
with Pete
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Dringo ??, 2005 -
MJclimb ??, 1995 -
2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 8
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set