Rockfax Description
Thinner, more technical and much bolder than Scheherezade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Chipped and now sports three bolts, rather than a skyhook for the 7a crux as on the first ascent! so safer nowadays. still Technical, Start to the left of the central groove, follow the thin crack to a bolt. Step right and rock over then step up to a good ledge. Moving left and up past two more bolts to a shared lower off with Scheherezade. Direct start is about 6b.

A Woodward unseconded 10/Aug/1986

max_dickens 25/Oct/17 Lead dnf

Wicked hard and scary, felt quite bold as the bolts are pretty hard to clip. will be back for this one fo sure!

with Owen
Sophie Nunn 02/Jul/17 2nd dog
with Ian L, Felix
feilx 02/Jul/17 Lead dog
with Gaetan L
Misha 11/Sep/16 Lead RP

Fell off after going wrong on the last hard sequence, so annoying! Should have gone for R than than L hand on a hold as ended up standing up into a very insecure position with no hands and poor feet, so lost balance and went for a skid down the slab but perfectly safe as above the third bolt. Got back on and did it fine using R hand and moving slightly L to better foot and hand holds (sloping triangular flattie) just before it gets a lot easier. Stripped the draws and led it clean afterwards. That took a lot less time as on the first go spent a lot of time figuring out exactly where to go (and convincing myself to commit to the small footholds) since it wasn't chalked and the line does weave around a bit. The last hard bit was still a bit sketchy as the feet are very poor but managed it ok with the right beta. Definitely feels more run out than Scheherezade and the third bolt was a bit of a gripper clipper but on the whole it's more of a sport route as the hard bits are not far from the bolts. I thought there were several 6b moves/sequences or at least one 6b and several hard 6a, so significantly harder than Scheherezade and there's more to it compared to Heading the Shot. Hence at least 7a+, may be more like 7b, slate slabs are hard to grade for sport though. Couple of long reaches as well, wouldn't have wanted to be much shorter! So now I've done all the routes on the slab apart from Never Never Land... My excuses were it was getting chilly and windy...

with Phil
jacob shieldhouse hadley 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Very thin and quite technical! run out and sketchy 1st bolt clip, then once 2nd bolt is clipped its a lot easier!

ChrisAllen 20/Jan/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
richiebongo 13/Sep/15 Lead dog
with paulo
Ed morris 16/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Packs it in from the word go. Relentlessly technical.

Keendan 04/Jul/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Also went left at the last bolt, probably not as bold as direct.

rustaldo 04/Jul/13 Lead dnf

cool route, struggled with the last 1-2 moves heading direct up to the belay. feet were killing me!

with Dan Heath
samrad 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf

wasn't feeling it and couldn't commit to run-outs. great moves tho. really stretchy to clip bolts.

with crad
barni 11/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Brown 17/Oct/09 TR rpt

Failed on the lead first.

with Pete
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dringo ??/2005 -
MJclimb ??/1995 -
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High E6
Mid E6
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High E5
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High E4
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High 6c
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High 6b
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High 6a
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Style of ascent
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