UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
The third line of bolts on the face is an equally good pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The bolted line up the slab, between Fallen Slab and Right-hand Route.

Ticklists

Portland , No Hand Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
CMHigginson 26 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The hardest of the slab routes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The hardest of the slab routes
Pawel W 23 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: another fantastic route in fallen slab area. good for beginners.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: another fantastic route in fallen slab area. good for beginners.
JasperBWilliams 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Of the three routes up the slab face this one is the most interesting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Of the three routes up the slab face this one is the most interesting.

Logged Ascents

534 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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Voting
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
High 3a
Mid 3a
Low 3a
High 2c
Mid 2c
Low 2c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fallen Slab

Grade: 3a ***
(Blacknor Beach)

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