[Flakes at the start have gone - route now HVS - AJM]
There is no gear available on the initial rising, leftward traverse of pitch 1. The (unprotected) Second must be as bold as the Leader on this - both risk ground fall.

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HVS Adventures, Lundy, High Quality Adventure routes, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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Sam Watchorn 13 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Guidebook topos don't match so guessed the first pitch, can protect 2nd with early skyhook, pretty fun VSish until final pitch then turns into a choss fest
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βeta: Guidebook topos don't match so guessed the first pitch, can protect 2nd with early skyhook, pretty fun VSish until final pitch then turns into a choss fest
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Sam Watchorn 22 Sep AltLd O/S Early skyhook placement in first pitch let's you know your're in for an epic. Set off on lead for final pitch with Sam's warning of 'its pretty chossy'. Internal monologue - how bad can it really be? Bad, Very bad... Two meters up off the ledge with only questionable anchor clipped, both footholds crumble and I land back on the foot wide ledge with one less fingertip and one more brown stain than I started with. Finished off the rest of the pitch using chalk to mop up the blood whilst attempting not to drop blocks on Sam with only moderate success. Would recommend to anyone who's tired of having ten digits.
Early skyhook placement in first pitch let's you know your're in for an epic. Set off on lead for final pitch with Sam's warning of 'its pretty chossy'. Internal monologue - how bad can it really be? Bad, Very bad... Two meters up off the ledge with only questionable anchor clipped, both footholds crumble and I land back on the foot wide ledge with one less fingertip and one more brown stain than I started with. Finished off the rest of the pitch using chalk to mop up the blood whilst attempting not to drop blocks on Sam with only moderate success. Would recommend to anyone who's tired of having ten digits.
@samtaylorphotos 22 Sep AltLd Well we got the adventure we were after. Two completely different first pitch topo’s in the guide confused things, we went for the fairly direct start with a skyhook for protection. Fairly solid rock up to the (scarily loose) belay of pitch 5 at which point thing went a bit west as the rain came down. Choss posing as solid rock proved a bit of a psychological challenge and things got a bit wild as the rocks started to crumble away at random. We’d say avoid this one, just a bit dangerous really and the climbing past pitch 2 is average at best.
Well we got the adventure we were after. Two completely different first pitch topo’s in the guide confused things, we went for the fairly direct start with a skyhook for protection. Fairly solid rock up to the (scarily loose) belay of pitch 5 at which point thing went a bit west as the rain came down. Choss posing as solid rock proved a bit of a psychological challenge and things got a bit wild as the rocks started to crumble away at random. We’d say avoid this one, just a bit dangerous really and the climbing past pitch 2 is average at best.
alex goodall 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P1+5. P1 is unprotected traverse above terrible landing, should get E1. As bad for seconds. Enjoyable long route after that
with Gordon W, Ollie Ross
Lead P1+5. P1 is unprotected traverse above terrible landing, should get E1. As bad for seconds. Enjoyable long route after that
with Gordon W, Ollie Ross
Gordon W 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Great lead from Alex on P1, at least on second I could pretend I might not hit the ground, the rest of the route was much easier and very enjoyable
Great lead from Alex on P1, at least on second I could pretend I might not hit the ground, the rest of the route was much easier and very enjoyable
OliverRoss 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S P3 & 4 linked. 5a unprotected traverse for both leader and 2nd on the first pitch has to be E1 right?
P3 & 4 linked. 5a unprotected traverse for both leader and 2nd on the first pitch has to be E1 right?
Ghost 19 Aug, 2017 AltLd
youwillfindjimbo 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Fatclimber 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd Pitch 1 with a quickdraw on the ab rope for protection. Then a very choosy (probably off route) pitch 5.
Pitch 1 with a quickdraw on the ab rope for protection. Then a very choosy (probably off route) pitch 5.
lithos 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd P3 , P5, it's fine after a scary serious P1
with gavina, Puma
P3 , P5, it's fine after a scary serious P1
with gavina, Puma
Puma 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd Rock paper scissors for the 5a pitch, Gav won or lost depending on how you saw it! Last to climb the 5a traverse, quite exposed for all involved.
with lithos
Rock paper scissors for the 5a pitch, Gav won or lost depending on how you saw it! Last to climb the 5a traverse, quite exposed for all involved.
with lithos
will_benfold 9 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1, P2, and half of P3. Started direct (still no gear until the belay), and just continued until I ran out of rope. Rich then did the rest, so we got the whole lot in two 45m leads.
with Rich Bull
Led P1, P2, and half of P3. Started direct (still no gear until the belay), and just continued until I ran out of rope. Rich then did the rest, so we got the whole lot in two 45m leads.
with Rich Bull
Hidden 12 Sep, 2013 -
darren hudson 24 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S The start is very blank and possibly should be E1 due to the fact that a fall would be quite a nasty ground fall. One of our party apparently protected with sky hooks! After pitch 1 the difficulties ease.
with David Ford
The start is very blank and possibly should be E1 due to the fact that a fall would be quite a nasty ground fall. One of our party apparently protected with sky hooks! After pitch 1 the difficulties ease.
with David Ford
masa-alpin 24 Jul, 2013 AltLd dog I lead P1,3,5, and Adel P2,4. The crux first pitch (5a) was, where it matters, only protected by skyhooks - so this should be E1, though it is graded as HVS and VS in the new (2008) and old (1994) definitive guidebooks, respectively. Adele took repeated leader falls with the fall factor larger than 1 in the first moves in P2 on "Jesus Nut" I placed, that is, the smallest (blue) CAMP ballnut placed in a flared downward-pointing crack, without knowing what gear she fell on to. I was dead scared in belaying...
with Adele L
I lead P1,3,5, and Adel P2,4. The crux first pitch (5a) was, where it matters, only protected by skyhooks - so this should be E1, though it is graded as HVS and VS in the new (2008) and old (1994) definitive guidebooks, respectively. Adele took repeated leader falls with the fall factor larger than 1 in the first moves in P2 on "Jesus Nut" I placed, that is, the smallest (blue) CAMP ballnut placed in a flared downward-pointing crack, without knowing what gear she fell on to. I was dead scared in belaying...
with Adele L
Nick Russell 17 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S A tricky approach, and a very bold first pitch (tough 5a, no protection and a long drop onto broken boulders - definitely worth the HVS for this). After this, a decent VS route in a great setting! Pitches 2 and 5 are the best, with 3 and 4 just linking them. I was surprised by the high quality of the climbing on P5, after looking up at the lichen-covered face. Somehow the route seems to be mostly clear. Altogether an epic route which is well worth a visit if you're feeling adventurous
with Emily
A tricky approach, and a very bold first pitch (tough 5a, no protection and a long drop onto broken boulders - definitely worth the HVS for this). After this, a decent VS route in a great setting! Pitches 2 and 5 are the best, with 3 and 4 just linking them. I was surprised by the high quality of the climbing on P5, after looking up at the lichen-covered face. Somehow the route seems to be mostly clear. Altogether an epic route which is well worth a visit if you're feeling adventurous
with Emily
Kevster 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S led P1 & P2 as one. Ab down the line for ease of access.
led P1 & P2 as one. Ab down the line for ease of access.
Hidden 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Paul Eckton 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with steve read
with steve read
evhall 23 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Tim Bray
with Tim Bray
timtimpeggy ?Aug, 2012 -
with Ev
with Ev
Stroppy 10 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Interesting approach, decent 2nd pitch
Interesting approach, decent 2nd pitch
mc fifi 10 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Ed Hastrop
with Ed Hastrop
Joolz 22 Oct, 2011 Lead P1, 3 & 5. A great route straight from the ferry!
P1, 3 & 5. A great route straight from the ferry!
DafSWMC 18 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S My 2nd climbed directly up to the right-hand end of the first belay ledge, making this a much safer proposition.
with Siwan
My 2nd climbed directly up to the right-hand end of the first belay ledge, making this a much safer proposition.
with Siwan
LoopyLou 24 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S A remote, eery location, with a difficult approach down a loose scree of rocks. The technical difficulty is all in the first pitch(my lead)- a bold and unprotectable rising traverse; one slip here and you risk decking 12+m onto broken boulders. Pitch 2 is easier climbing, some nice moves, a little thin on gear. We ran pitches 3 + 4 together; the angle steepens slightly but the holds are big. The last pitch was awful - lots of loose rock (i was hit in the face with one flying piece) and precarious climbing. Spoilt an otherwise goodish route. Climbed with Sarah b (NST).
A remote, eery location, with a difficult approach down a loose scree of rocks. The technical difficulty is all in the first pitch(my lead)- a bold and unprotectable rising traverse; one slip here and you risk decking 12+m onto broken boulders. Pitch 2 is easier climbing, some nice moves, a little thin on gear. We ran pitches 3 + 4 together; the angle steepens slightly but the holds are big. The last pitch was awful - lots of loose rock (i was hit in the face with one flying piece) and precarious climbing. Spoilt an otherwise goodish route. Climbed with Sarah b (NST).
John Brayshaw 16 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with erica
with erica
Hidden 16 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
erica 16 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2 and 4. The feel of a mountaineering route in a sea cliff setting. Chose to scramble to start of route - unpleasant.
Led pitches 2 and 4. The feel of a mountaineering route in a sea cliff setting. Chose to scramble to start of route - unpleasant.
dpmUK 15 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2,4
Led P2,4
victim of mathematics 15 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P1, 3 & 5. The first pitch has 5a climbing in a position where falling off would be a very bad idea, but after that things ease substantially, and a mountaineering adventure unfolds. A great day out.
with dpmUK
Led P1, 3 & 5. The first pitch has 5a climbing in a position where falling off would be a very bad idea, but after that things ease substantially, and a mountaineering adventure unfolds. A great day out.
with dpmUK
RCrockford 11 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mark B, Jonah
with Mark B, Jonah
ferdia 7 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S led 2nd and final pitches
with Nia Wilcox, Giles Cornah
led 2nd and final pitches
with Nia Wilcox, Giles Cornah
willworkforfoodjnr 29 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Pitches 2 and 5
Pitches 2 and 5
Hidden 29 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 14 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 14 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hobson
with Andy Hobson
Hidden 27 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2008 AltLd
blahblahblah 22 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Led 2nd + 4th pitches - Pile of rubble and choss - awful - wouldn't recomend it to anyone - god knows why it gets a star ?
with Keith Ridgeway
Led 2nd + 4th pitches - Pile of rubble and choss - awful - wouldn't recomend it to anyone - god knows why it gets a star ?
with Keith Ridgeway
pete johnson ?Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Paul Donnithorne
with Paul Donnithorne
Hidden 29 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Apr, 2008 2nd O/S
cmawson 18 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S Great route. 1st short pitch looks a bit stiff, but once you are on it, it's goes fine (probably HVS). Rest of climb has heaps of gear and goes at VS / HS. 2nd and last pitches are great. Easy but enjoyable all the same, with good exposure. Excellent belay ledges. Care needed on descent path - no abb needed. Enjoy!
with Guido
Great route. 1st short pitch looks a bit stiff, but once you are on it, it's goes fine (probably HVS). Rest of climb has heaps of gear and goes at VS / HS. 2nd and last pitches are great. Easy but enjoyable all the same, with good exposure. Excellent belay ledges. Care needed on descent path - no abb needed. Enjoy!
with Guido
Guy ?Sep, 2007 AltLd
davebrox ?Sep, 2006 Lead
with Ann Fisher
with Ann Fisher
Hidden 7 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ?Jul, 2005 AltLd
with Hugh Wormington
with Hugh Wormington
Okecroak 11 Sep, 2004 AltLd
with I Butler
with I Butler
Hidden 1 Sep, 2001 AltLd
timmy-ts ??, 2000 -
pauldrew ?Sep, 1998 AltLd
with Julian Cox
with Julian Cox
steveb2006 18 Aug, 1998 AltLd The route I wanted to do in 1984
with Terry Thornton
The route I wanted to do in 1984
with Terry Thornton
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
Iain Thow 10 Aug, 1996 AltLd Led 1,2,4&5
with Liz Jolley
Led 1,2,4&5
with Liz Jolley
Hidden 15 Aug, 1995 2nd
Hidden 7 Jun, 1995 Lead rpt
colin milton 28 Sep, 1994 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
eroica64 ?Sep, 1992 AltLd
with Denis Crampton
with Denis Crampton
ajtay ?Aug, 1992 -
with Colin Bostock Simon Parish Spanner
with Colin Bostock Simon Parish Spanner
Hidden 7 Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?Sep, 1987 - finished in dark
with Mike Beresford
finished in dark
with Mike Beresford
wynaptomos ?Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
Tom V ?Aug, 1986 -
Hidden ??, 1984 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet 21 Sep, 1983 Lead
with Tom Redfern
with Tom Redfern
Pete Nugent ??, 1983 - I have not noted in guidebook but feel sure I did this route with Jack Rosindale in 1983???
I have not noted in guidebook but feel sure I did this route with Jack Rosindale in 1983???
Pete Wimbush 21 Aug, 1981 AltLd O/S
with Nick Green
with Nick Green
uphillnow ?Apr, 1981 Lead A good VS at theb time
with Richard Griffiths, Andy Bennett
A good VS at theb time
with Richard Griffiths, Andy Bennett
The Reaper 14 Aug, 1980 AltLd O/S
Chris Terrey ?Aug, 1980 Lead
with Bob Gookey
with Bob Gookey
scott titt ??, 1980 -
D Tempest ?Aug, 1976 -
RichardMc 31 Aug, 1975 AltLd O/S
with Dave Langmead, Betty Seifert
with Dave Langmead, Betty Seifert
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set