Rockfax Description
A magnificent and sustained pitch that follows the long open groove with a tricky finish that is difficult to read on-sight. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Great climbing up the open groove to the right of Chorro Mandu.

Ticklists: El Chorro Wishlist Easter 2015, El Chorro dreams - 6a to 6c+.

derekb 07/Mar Lead dnf
with Jonas - ob Swiz
Hidden 28/Feb Lead dog
richiebongo 09/Feb Lead O/S
with Didymus
dan gibson 31/Jan Lead O/S
Quarryboy 30/Jan Lead RP

Felt very hard at 6c+, English 6b crux moves?

with Elicia
Seán Fortune 19/Jan Lead RP

First 6c+, quality route to do it on! All in working out the feet at the crux, brilliant moves

Stuart Walker 18/Dec/18 TR O/S
MaxPrescott 18/Dec/18 Lead O/S
with Jaomes
Stanners 11/Dec/18 Lead O/S
RossWoodruffe 06/Nov/18 Lead dnf

There is a very suspect belay on this route; the chain links are held against the rock directly behind the head of the bolts. At the end of the chains are three rusty mallions that looks far too small.

reubenrules123 12/Apr/18 Lead dog

Crux felt really hard and I ended up using different beta to everyone else. Would like to come back to.

RobertHalls 12/Apr/18 TR dog

Led to second crux, did the last moves on top rope

M_Robinson 08/Apr/18 Lead rpt
with Liz Gulley
Hidden 08/Apr/18 TR
reubenhf 08/Apr/18 Lead RP

My favourite route in El Chorro (and possibly the world)! Straight forward for the first three bolts and then just the sickest moves all the way through to the chains- a perfect blend of technical and powerful. It ended up becoming a bit of a mission to get this to send but that just made it all the more sweet when it finally did.

with gw97, Liz G
M_Robinson 07/Apr/18 Lead rpt
with Liz Gulley
Matt.c.Warner 06/Mar/18 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 24/Feb/18 Lead O/S
with Derek
derekb 24/Feb/18 Lead dog
James Oakes 23/Feb/18 Lead O/S
climbhannahclimb 16/Feb/18 2nd dog
with Jono
Hidden 08/Jan/18 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jan/18 Lead dog
jonleighton 22/Dec/17 Lead O/S
with Emily C
Emily C 22/Dec/17 Lead RP
JBO 16/Dec/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Dec/17 Lead dog
Jemima Churchhouse 05/Dec/17 Lead dnf

This was super nice until a really reachy move near the top! Gwil fell off as well though so its not too embarrassing ;)

with GwilymR
timozheng ?/Dec/17 Lead O/S
James Oswald 23/Nov/17 Lead dog

Got nervous about hurting my finger. Good technical crux

with Ben Conway
spidermonkey09 19/Nov/17 Lead RP

Hard! Dropped the onsight then first RP. Don't think anyone would object to 7a for this to be honest. Crux easier for the tall. Excellent climbing again.

paultaylor 18/Nov/17 Lead β
richgibson 21/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Tim Wise, coombsy
tom.wp6 12/Apr/17 Lead dnf
reubenhf 12/Apr/17 Lead dnf
jonsey1995 12/Apr/17 2nd
with tom.wp6
smartydh9 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Tala A 22/Mar/17 2nd dog

In one up to crux, took a few tries to figure out correct moves. Bridged the most part of it.

beni 06/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 06/Mar/17 2nd dog

Lead dnf, tried to second Beni up it and got a bit further but still came off

with beni
funsized 27/Feb/17 Lead rpt
with anna and thon
brian watson 26/Feb/17 Lead dog

Fantastic route, was close to a onsight, was pressed for time so no red pointing on this visit, such a great climb.

Pete Polish 24/Jan/17 Lead rpt
Luuuuuke 13/Jan/17 Lead O/S
deklan 10/Jan/17 Lead
kylos8048 ?/Jan/17 Lead
Sophie Nunn 28/Dec/16 Lead RP
with Becky G
Ram MkiV 21/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Classy route. Would be an even better trad route with all the perfect wire placements but yeh. Harder (7a at least) if you stay right, in the groove at top crux.

with bailes
Teappleby 21/Dec/16 Lead RP

Second go relatively hard boulder problem.

with Misha Olive branch
Hidden 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S
islandlynx 15/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Felt pretty easy. Used slightly different beta to other people. Think it's might first on sight at 6c+

Hidden 06/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 05/Dec/16 Lead dog
cjbaker 02/Dec/16 Lead RP
with Mia
alexspurling 28/Nov/16 Lead RP

Finally sent! Glad to get this after missing it last year. Amazing route. The crux is very beta intensive but I believe 6c+ is the right grade. I'm 5'6" so not necessarily impossible for shorties.

sev 21/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/16 Lead dog
alex toomey 14/Apr/16 Lead dog

fell from the top crux

erkdaly12 10/Apr/16 Lead dnf
with Trisha
Trisha Murphy 10/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Emma
AxelC 06/Apr/16 Lead RP


with Craig Silvie
BTphonehome 01/Mar/16 Lead dnf

A superb line requiring more effort (and strength, and technique, etc) than I had left in me today.

Hidden 08/Feb/16 Lead RP
sarpedon 08/Feb/16 Lead dnf

Climbed fine up to the final crux which was reach dependent. My friend who is 6'4" got it. Suspect there is another way to do it, but too tired to try

Amy Horton 08/Feb/16 TR dog
cjcuni ?/Feb/16 Lead RP
with Andrew Woods, Peter Lockhart
AlexD 28/Jan/16 2nd RP
with Alice
J_Spooner ??/2016 -
Gloria 31/Dec/15 Lead dnf

Put up the draws on this bar one from the end. Very delicate, diverse climbing - bridge inside the bowl and dynamic throw to a crack. Huge body tension. Happy to see lots have graded this to 7a.

with James Webb
mr_cf 31/Dec/15 Lead dog

Although I never got it clean in the two goes. It's a really interesting and diverse route! If I had more time I would have liked to get it clean. Bold dynamic moved, mixed in with cruxy delicate moves

with Magda Jez
cescofry 29/Nov/15 TR RP
alexspurling 29/Nov/15 Lead dog

One of the best routes I've tried. Work your way left to the big side pull to get past the dihedral at half-height (or bridge delicately if you prefer). Use some fancy footwork and dynamic movements to gain the good holds at the upper crux. The moves are not super obvious but brilliant when you get it. Will have to return to get it clean on lead.

Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead dnf
climbomaniac 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Dave Mayes 25/Mar/15 Lead RP


JayAyBee 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S
madeleine 27/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Awesome climb. 2nd go.

with dprctr
LucasHarazin 25/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/15 Lead β
KKilroy ?/Dec/14 Lead
with claire
katiep 09/Nov/14 Lead RP

Fell after the last bolt then got it second go. First 6c+. Nice bridging to start, then gets pumpy.

with Gemma
Olli-C ?/Nov/14 Lead RP

Amazing, best sport pitch ive done.

with Lou
Leo Woodhead 17/Oct/14 Lead RP

Took a couple of goes to get moving on this but a brilliant route once I got through the initial tough section. Sustained and quite pumpy!

MischaHY 17/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Cheeky moves. Second climb on Spanish rock!

funsized 14/Oct/14 Lead rpt
tam.sayers ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Adam_42 19/Apr/14 Lead RP

Dropped the onsight trying to get to the chains. Went next go.

Wil Treasure 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Adam_42
Si Witcher 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S

tricky finish

Hidden 02/Mar/14 2nd dog
Ed Babs 02/Mar/14 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 15/Feb/14 Lead RP

Did 8b and dropped a 6c+ in the same day... Thought it was pretty hard for 6c+ but really good fun none the less.

Hidden 31/Jan/14 Lead dog
Dibdawg 30/Jan/14 Lead β
with Phil Mitchel
Bristoldave 16/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline
tobydunford 03/Jan/14 Lead dog
with Anthony Bishopp
Hidden 28/Dec/13 Lead RP
Mattlamb90 22/Dec/13 Lead RP

1st RP, had to lay on below the last bolt.

luke384 22/Dec/13 Lead RP
Mackinclimb ?/Dec/13 -
Hidden 21/Nov/13 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 14/Oct/13 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Oct/13 Lead RP
j.buckley87 08/Apr/13 TR
chiverstom 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
DanC1985 02/Mar/13 Lead dog
with Dave P
dprctr 02/Mar/13 Lead RP

Hard hard reachy crux. Absolute sandbag but well deserving of 3 stars. Clean on 2nd attempt.

Hidden ?/Mar/13 Lead
BeckyBrown1989 28/Jan/13 2nd
willoates 27/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Good, cool moves, hard for the grade.

with Becky Brown
Hidden ?/Jan/13 Lead dog
soph ?/Jan/13 Lead
with Helena Robinson
justin c ??/2013 Lead RP
with steph crowley
Kevster 29/Dec/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Warm up head.

bunn.aroundthebloc 26/Dec/12 2nd
Elaine Bunn 26/Dec/12 Lead dog
Pete Polish 16/Dec/12 Lead RP
with Erik
twm 06/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Darren
ranga 05/Nov/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Oct/12 Lead dnf
allyrocke 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Rested at the second last bolt - powerful move!

with Katie Main
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
krasavenko 15/Apr/12 Lead dnf
crag_hopper_Jay 15/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Ben HW 11/Apr/12 Lead RP

Sent second go!

with Dan Vaughan, James Sanders, Joseph Torr
david morse 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S


with josh
tprebs 25/Feb/12 Lead dog

Fell on the last clip climbing at sunrise. Stunning!

with Jenny Lau
Trevera 01/Feb/12 Lead
with nick sillem
mattwyles1 ?/Feb/12 Lead dog

Failed just short of the top onsight, great route.

Hidden 18/Jan/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jan/12 Lead dog
Tom Keaveny 10/Jan/12 Lead dog
cayteye 05/Jan/12 TR dog
with stephen pearson
Ian Broome 03/Jan/12 Lead O/S

very good

with Becky
Hidden ?/Jan/12 Lead
Justin T ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 30/Dec/11 Lead dog

Nails for the grade..

with Sarah Marks
felixthelion 28/Dec/11 Lead β

retroflash. Great technical climbing in the groove to a more powerful finish. fantastic route

benchwarmer 19/Dec/11 Lead dog
with Glyn
bunn.aroundthebloc 12/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Tom White, Elaine Budden
Greg Pittam 04/Dec/11 Lead dog
with Clare Richardson
mwatson ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/11 Lead RP
vix 19/Nov/11 Lead dnf
Paul Bowen 30/Oct/11 Lead RP
with bec
Hidden 30/Oct/11 TR RP
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead dog
Greenman28 ?/May/11 -
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead dog
John 'B' Hutchinson 22/Mar/11 Lead RP

3rd RP. 7a I reckon. Crux sequence at top is delightful.

with Bean, Steve, Ina
stv ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

Great route, tricky crux near top, happy to get on 1st RP.

with B, Beans, Ina
quiffhanger ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 25/Feb/11 Lead RP
tomhull 20/Feb/11 Lead RP

2nd go

with rin
Hidden 07/Feb/11 Lead dnf
Pippa 02/Jan/11 Lead
winged_traveller ?/Jan/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 23/Dec/10 Lead RP
alek 23/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Henners ?/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Alan Cassidy
Paul Bowen 03/Nov/10 Lead dog

one to come back to hopefully remember the holds and sequences

with bec
Hidden 03/Nov/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Chad123 20/Oct/10 AltLd dog

Nice climbing but very hard for grade with huge reaches and difficult moves at the very top.....tough

with Emily
jacobjlloyd 07/Jul/10 Lead β
dswansonlow 07/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Apr/10 Lead dog
Wil Treasure ?/Apr/10 Lead
gb05 28/Mar/10 Lead dog
danoflynn 23/Mar/10 Lead RP

1st rp, big stretch out left near the end!

markalmack 27/Feb/10 Lead O/S

very nice.

with gcap
Hidden 05/Feb/10 Lead O/S
dmoir 05/Feb/10 Lead RP
with Oli
Lawrie Brand 22/Jan/10 TR RP

Great climbing. Gutted to have missed the lead due to rain..

with Susan Mc
dannyboy83 08/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with dmoir
DavidR 04/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Forced to back off from penultimate bolt - absolutely dripping wet up there! Had several failed attempts to use the holds, but kept pinging off due to the wet. Was comfortable up to that point and gutted not to be able to finish it off.

Hidden 28/Dec/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Dec/09 Lead dnf
funsized 17/Dec/09 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Dec/09 Lead dog

pumpy with hidden jugs. Missed some big holds and made it too hard.

with dmoir
mattcyp88 09/Dec/09 Lead dog
with Jenni Stephens
barni 05/Dec/09 Lead dog
Luke Brooks 05/Dec/09 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose ?/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with Sankey
chiverstom 18/Sep/09 Lead dog
Brian Rodgers 16/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Louise Rodgers
mikecopp 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Holloway
chiverstom 27/Jan/09 Lead dog
with Ivo
Paz 04/Jan/09 Lead β
Hidden 04/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with simon richardson
Hidden 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
felixthelion 11/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with lukea
lukea 11/Dec/08 2nd
lukea 12/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Al
Steve Crowe 17/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with karin
Rich Kirby 06/Jan/02 Lead O/S
with antham
Hidden 21/Dec/98 Lead
SR1970 08/Apr/98 Lead RP
buzby78 14/Jan/98 Lead O/S
pete johnson 07/Jan/96 Lead O/S
with Lun
Ched 01/Apr/95 Lead dog

1 rest

with Iolo
Cowflinger ?/Mar/95 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 05/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
keefe 03/Jan/92 -
Mike Owen 28/Dec/90 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen, Phil Davidson
14 users have this on their wishlist
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set