UKC

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An impressive brute of a route. Begin at a slim groove right of Transformer.
1) 6b, 20m. Take the groove past a peg to a break. Head up the overhanging right wall (peg) to a shallow groove (thread) which leads to good holds. Move up leftwards (peg) on steep ground to reach overhung ledges (peg). Powerful moves past a bulge (thread) access a break (thread). Continue past another break to a peg belay.
2) 6b, 20m. Ascend the shallow groove above and then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall (peg and thread) to good holds. Finish awkwardly. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A thuggish route of the highest quality. Start at a slim groove between Transformer and Yellow Regeneration.
1) 6b. 20m. Climb the groove, PR, to a break, then cross the overhanging right wall, PR, into a shallow groove, TR, leading to good holds. Swing up leftwards, PR, through overhanging rock to gain overhung ledges, PR. Power through a bulge, TR, to reach a break, TR. Climb past another break to a PB.
2) 6b, 20m. Climb a shallow groove above, old BR, then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall, PR, TR, to good jugs. Finish awkwardly.

G.Gibson, R.Thomas 15/Oct/1989.

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Masterpiece

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)

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