Rockfax Description
A magnificent route. Start right of Man of the Earth at a narrow groove..
1) 6b, 27m. Follow the narrow groove to roofs and pull out left (thread) to a diagonal ramp (peg). Climb the overhung wall leftwards to good holds and a thread. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block. Peg belay above.
2) 6b, 24m. Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arete (peg). Climb the arete (thread) from where a long reach accesses easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A magnificent route up the overhanging wall and arête between Transformer and Holy Grail. Start 6m right of Transformer. Some of the in-situ gear needs replacing.
1) 6b, 27m. Climb a narrow groove to roofs, pull out left, TR, to gain a diagonal ramp, PR, then cross the overhung wall left to jugs, TR. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block.
2) 6b, 24m. Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arête, PR. Climb the arête, TR, then a long reach leads to easier ground.

M. Crocker, R. Thomas 30/Aug/1986.

Ticklists

Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

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