Rockfax Description
A stiff little pitch, which is a popular route of its grade (i.e. it is an easy E5 ). The headwall is thin, technical and sustained but only short. Start at the block belay below Little Queenie. Traverse right to where you are forced to step down into steeper territory, move right for a few metres until below a hanging groove. Make difficult moves up into the groove and follow the hourglass slab up and right to its end below a good undercut and a steep headwall. Getting established on the headwall is hard. Above is sustained climbing on well-spaced crimps to a rest on a small ledge on the right arete. Above, the climbing eases considerable and leads up and slightly left to the top. Belay well back. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, 20 For 2019, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?), Wales Ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
DeaNomNom 22 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again.
 
Show beta
βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Von T 23 Jun 2nd Belter. One to come back and lead for sure.
with GraMc
Belter. One to come back and lead for sure.
with GraMc
GraMc 23 Jun Lead O/S Brilliant
with Ed
Brilliant
with Ed
DeaNomNom 22 Jun Lead O/S
scarmichael 20 Jun Lead dnf Felt good to the overlap, pulled through onto the headwall, alarming levels of pump, looked up at next section and got spooked, the peg looked faaaaaaar away! Tried a couple of times then traversed over to the sun. Outstanding positions, one to get fitter and come back for!
with Mihkel
Felt good to the overlap, pulled through onto the headwall, alarming levels of pump, looked up at next section and got spooked, the peg looked faaaaaaar away! Tried a couple of times then traversed over to the sun. Outstanding positions, one to get fitter and come back for!
with Mihkel
George_Surf 23 May Lead O/S Initially a bit bold. The crack was pretty greasy. Got high cams, a rest, then pulled through. Quite powerful (kneebars helped). Headwall is sustained and I was getting pumped near the top. Only placed green alien and the peg, still tiring! Awesome position. Didn’t feel easy e5
Initially a bit bold. The crack was pretty greasy. Got high cams, a rest, then pulled through. Quite powerful (kneebars helped). Headwall is sustained and I was getting pumped near the top. Only placed green alien and the peg, still tiring! Awesome position. Didn’t feel easy e5
Ed Booth 21 May 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 21 May Lead rpt
markalmack 6 May Lead O/S
with Trouble Bird
with Trouble Bird
Katekeltie 6 May 2nd O/S
simondunf 1 May Lead O/S Great route - had to dig deep to stay on the head wall.
with owen
Great route - had to dig deep to stay on the head wall.
with owen
robertmichaellovell 24 Feb Lead dog Yeah reckon this would feel easy if you were good enough to climb it
with Hugo
Yeah reckon this would feel easy if you were good enough to climb it
with Hugo
hugo glover 24 Feb 2nd
Stanners 6 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S sensational. in perfect warm evening light.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
sensational. in perfect warm evening light.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
Adam24B 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Jumped on this after finishing positron super quickly, superb climbing and pretty easy going if your stamina is good. Lots of options when you get to the headwall, so many holds to choose from
Jumped on this after finishing positron super quickly, superb climbing and pretty easy going if your stamina is good. Lots of options when you get to the headwall, so many holds to choose from
M_Robinson 10 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
MikePycroft 5 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Looking good till I steped onto the head wal and ended up resting twice before getting up the head wall. Hard work
with Ceffin
Looking good till I steped onto the head wal and ended up resting twice before getting up the head wall. Hard work
with Ceffin
Dan Hale 21 May, 2018 Lead G/U Tried this with Pete the other day. No chalk to follow and found route reading tricky, I broke right onto the arete too early and fell just before the easy ground. Great to come back today with Dan Q and get it clean. One of the most memorable lines I've done and fantastic to watch Dan cruise it on second with a big smile on his face.
with Dan Qureshi
Tried this with Pete the other day. No chalk to follow and found route reading tricky, I broke right onto the arete too early and fell just before the easy ground. Great to come back today with Dan Q and get it clean. One of the most memorable lines I've done and fantastic to watch Dan cruise it on second with a big smile on his face.
with Dan Qureshi
pipof747 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Michael Bortoluzzi 28 Apr, 2018 2nd dog Gutted to pump out on the headwall when I missed the undercut and had to rest. Good fun though!
Gutted to pump out on the headwall when I missed the undercut and had to rest. Good fun though!
Richard Kendrick 28 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt Seconded Misha on this about the same time last year, great to feel steady on it today!
Seconded Misha on this about the same time last year, great to feel steady on it today!
peter.herd 21 Apr, 2018 Lead Cool big pitch. Unchalked and full sun so turbo thrusters engaged toward the top
with D Rudkin
Cool big pitch. Unchalked and full sun so turbo thrusters engaged toward the top
with D Rudkin
Hidden 21 Apr, 2018 2nd
Hidden 13 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
pete johnson 25 Mar, 2018 2nd rpt
with Marcus Payne
with Marcus Payne
harry_lewis 24 Mar, 2018 Lead dnf mega whiiip
mega whiiip
shaunhumphreys 24 Mar, 2018 Lead dnf Absolutely gutted, didn't want it enough! Was feeling super steady but bottled it on the run out and started down climbing which was super pumpy! One to come back for, for sure.
Absolutely gutted, didn't want it enough! Was feeling super steady but bottled it on the run out and started down climbing which was super pumpy! One to come back for, for sure.
Tom Livingstone 14 Sep, 2017 2nd rpt
with Matija Volontar
with Matija Volontar
JCAshman 6 Sep, 2017 Lead G/U 1st E5! Took a lob off the headwall on the first go but got it after some much needed rest. Amazing pumpy climbing!
1st E5! Took a lob off the headwall on the first go but got it after some much needed rest. Amazing pumpy climbing!
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 22 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Andy P
with Andy P
Tom Livingstone 9 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
with Ian Craigie
with Ian Craigie
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 9 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Too fat to manage the headwall. Took a couple of wangers from it instead.
with Fay Manners
Too fat to manage the headwall. Took a couple of wangers from it instead.
with Fay Manners
manwithacam 21 May, 2017 Lead Thanks Mark for the beta and for encouraging me to get on this and giving me the belief I could lead an E5 when I haven't even led an E4... Apparently I looked steady on it, but I think I got it by the skin of my teeth. Strenuous and sapping throughout, even on the lower section of the climb. Good committing move to get through overlap onto headwall, then it really kicks in, found it fairly hard to read rock and place gear. Got good microcam which helped me relax, and that was it until the peg by which time things were getting desperate. Recall getting hand jam at peg which rested fingers. Brilliant experience, great climb. Psyched.
with Mark Grist
Thanks Mark for the beta and for encouraging me to get on this and giving me the belief I could lead an E5 when I haven't even led an E4... Apparently I looked steady on it, but I think I got it by the skin of my teeth. Strenuous and sapping throughout, even on the lower section of the climb. Good committing move to get through overlap onto headwall, then it really kicks in, found it fairly hard to read rock and place gear. Got good microcam which helped me relax, and that was it until the peg by which time things were getting desperate. Recall getting hand jam at peg which rested fingers. Brilliant experience, great climb. Psyched.
with Mark Grist
The Grist 21 May, 2017 2nd rpt Great lead by Dan. Looked very steady on it. I felt good on second. No excuse not to lead it next time.
with Dan Metcalfe
Great lead by Dan. Looked very steady on it. I felt good on second. No excuse not to lead it next time.
with Dan Metcalfe
Misha 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Finally got on this (been meaning to for a while), glad I did as it went ok. Great route. Really pleased to do this so early in the season (third day on rock and second on trad). E3 up to the overlap, with an almost hands off rest a few moves below the overlap. I went up and down a few times, placing gear (two green cams are handy) and trying the crux sequence to the jug. Wasn't sure how juggy it would be so didn't want to pop for it (turned out to be el jugio medio but not jugissimus maximus). In the end did it by locking off a slightly iffy handjam, long committing move but next to good gear. Rich used an undercut which might have been easier. Headwall felt steep but not overhanging like it looks from the side! Was able to hang around by deploying my usual reserves of stamina, which was useful to work out the sequences. A few half rests in between short bursts where you had to move quickly. Fair bit of gear as well, if you can place it. Peg is ok but pumpy to clip, there's some good gear a bit higher but it's kind of relaxing to clip the peg... We thought around 6c+. Should have taken sling extenders for the runners over the roof as ended up with a bit of drag even with doubling up the draw. Quality! Oh and that South Stack start was kind of fun...
Finally got on this (been meaning to for a while), glad I did as it went ok. Great route. Really pleased to do this so early in the season (third day on rock and second on trad). E3 up to the overlap, with an almost hands off rest a few moves below the overlap. I went up and down a few times, placing gear (two green cams are handy) and trying the crux sequence to the jug. Wasn't sure how juggy it would be so didn't want to pop for it (turned out to be el jugio medio but not jugissimus maximus). In the end did it by locking off a slightly iffy handjam, long committing move but next to good gear. Rich used an undercut which might have been easier. Headwall felt steep but not overhanging like it looks from the side! Was able to hang around by deploying my usual reserves of stamina, which was useful to work out the sequences. A few half rests in between short bursts where you had to move quickly. Fair bit of gear as well, if you can place it. Peg is ok but pumpy to clip, there's some good gear a bit higher but it's kind of relaxing to clip the peg... We thought around 6c+. Should have taken sling extenders for the runners over the roof as ended up with a bit of drag even with doubling up the draw. Quality! Oh and that South Stack start was kind of fun...
Richard Kendrick 23 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
mim tiller 10 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Really nice climbing on the head wall. I'm sure I've done harder E4's though
with davkeo
Really nice climbing on the head wall. I'm sure I've done harder E4's though
with davkeo
anguskille 2 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
BrendanR 27 Mar, 2017 2nd
liamo333 27 Mar, 2017 2nd
mcgovern 27 Mar, 2017 Lead mega!
mega!
Toby Dunn ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden ??, 2017 -
JBO 26 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S Having been confined to bouldering indoors for the last three months I'm quite pleased to have scraped my way up this. Not as fit as I normally am so the headwall was a fight
Having been confined to bouldering indoors for the last three months I'm quite pleased to have scraped my way up this. Not as fit as I normally am so the headwall was a fight
Ramon Marin 19 Oct, 2016 2nd rpt Seconded Calum
with Jon Leighton
Seconded Calum
with Jon Leighton
Eduardo Martinez 19 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Getting to the foot of the climb, as described in the Rockfax guide, was dangerous - vertical grassy section to negotiate. Better to approach directly from below than to transverse in.
Getting to the foot of the climb, as described in the Rockfax guide, was dangerous - vertical grassy section to negotiate. Better to approach directly from below than to transverse in.
eel ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Billg 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
with Will Calvert
Chris_barr 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
James Oswald 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Amazing route - first e5. Duncan convinced me to try it. Sustained climbing after pulling over the bulge - I placed loads of gear and had a very pumped left hand at the top. Ace
Amazing route - first e5. Duncan convinced me to try it. Sustained climbing after pulling over the bulge - I placed loads of gear and had a very pumped left hand at the top. Ace
Duncan Campbell 13 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt Great to see Wald climb his first E5
Great to see Wald climb his first E5
Hidden 4 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
shed_hed 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic position and moves. Good gear after you've got to the slab, although I wasn't doing a particularly efficient job of finding it and getting it in! Didn't feel like there was a distinct crux to me but the head wall was very sustained, hard to read, and a bit pumpy. Wind was blowing right onto the crag which was great whilst climbing but a quite chilly belaying.
Fantastic position and moves. Good gear after you've got to the slab, although I wasn't doing a particularly efficient job of finding it and getting it in! Didn't feel like there was a distinct crux to me but the head wall was very sustained, hard to read, and a bit pumpy. Wind was blowing right onto the crag which was great whilst climbing but a quite chilly belaying.
Elliot Walker 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Really good. Being fit helps a lot. First e5
with Pete
Really good. Being fit helps a lot. First e5
with Pete
pete johnson 21 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
UncleMephisto 21 Jul, 2016 2nd dog Incredible! All going fine until the final headwall, at which point my arms decided they'd had enough. Was worth falling off at that point just to dangle under the overhang and feel the exposure!
Incredible! All going fine until the final headwall, at which point my arms decided they'd had enough. Was worth falling off at that point just to dangle under the overhang and feel the exposure!
Hidden 20 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
i_a_coops 20 Jul, 2016 Lead β
with Robbie
with Robbie
Andy Peak 1 5 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf the best position of any climb I'v bean on going over the roof.
the best position of any climb I'v bean on going over the roof.
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
pablosordo 2 Jul, 2016 2nd β in between the rain
in between the rain
jonleighton 2 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S I'm taking the onsight even though what actually happened is I got to below the crux, a raincloud came over and soaked everything, I lowered and stripped all the gear except my top pieces, we waited for the rock to dry off, and then I went back up and did it clean.
I'm taking the onsight even though what actually happened is I got to below the crux, a raincloud came over and soaked everything, I lowered and stripped all the gear except my top pieces, we waited for the rock to dry off, and then I went back up and did it clean.
robpartridge 11 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf
with Helen, Chris Igel
with Helen, Chris Igel
wi11 10 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
with Helen Wise
with Helen Wise
Dave Warburton 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S Crag was an oven. Ran away to Ogwen.
Crag was an oven. Ran away to Ogwen.
andyinglis 23 May, 2016 Lead O/S Pretty cool route!
Pretty cool route!
Alasdair Fulton 23 May, 2016 2nd β Great Fun!
Great Fun!
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 22 May, 2016 Lead O/S Really pleased with this one. Getting through the roof was easy but the headwall was really pumpy and hard to read. Had near-terminal pump when I got to the peg but had to keep going as I didn't want it to rip out
with Leon
Really pleased with this one. Getting through the roof was easy but the headwall was really pumpy and hard to read. Had near-terminal pump when I got to the peg but had to keep going as I didn't want it to rip out
with Leon
Lenny 22 May, 2016 2nd O/S Fantastic climbing on the headwall
with Theo
Fantastic climbing on the headwall
with Theo
The Grist 14 May, 2016 2nd
Tom Doldon 14 May, 2016 Lead dog Had really bad beater off a girl at the bottom of crag. Got a good cam in just below peg. Rested. Got to peg. Rested. Got to top. Very good. I'll be back.
Had really bad beater off a girl at the bottom of crag. Got a good cam in just below peg. Rested. Got to peg. Rested. Got to top. Very good. I'll be back.
soph 2 May, 2016 2nd rpt
with Clinton martinengo
with Clinton martinengo
Ramon Marin 24 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt did it again for 3rd time for filming
did it again for 3rd time for filming
Flavio 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S After seconding "the Sun" I packed up ready to lead "the Moon". Mike ran across the zawn mesmerized by this line, I joined him and got mesmerized too, but my lead... Put a microcam past the bulge and just ran it out to the top (got a fist jam too!). First E5 this year and its only April! Thanks Mike and sorry Mike!
After seconding "the Sun" I packed up ready to lead "the Moon". Mike ran across the zawn mesmerized by this line, I joined him and got mesmerized too, but my lead... Put a microcam past the bulge and just ran it out to the top (got a fist jam too!). First E5 this year and its only April! Thanks Mike and sorry Mike!
Ed Babs 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Set off intending to climb The Mask of the Red Death, but with Iain and Andy's encouragement the head wall was too much to resist. Glad I went for it. Excellent pumpy wall climbing.
with IainAM
Set off intending to climb The Mask of the Red Death, but with Iain and Andy's encouragement the head wall was too much to resist. Glad I went for it. Excellent pumpy wall climbing.
with IainAM
Hidden 24 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
NDD 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with sam harvie
with sam harvie
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 22 Oct, 2015 Lead
WB 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Andy M
with Andy M
soph 15 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
with Pablo Martin
with Pablo Martin
Andrew Sloan 14 Aug, 2015 2nd dog Dogged the upper section; thrutched up 6 inches at a time on a very tight rope. 6a is too tough for me.
with Matthew
Dogged the upper section; thrutched up 6 inches at a time on a very tight rope. 6a is too tough for me.
with Matthew
Mike_Hayes 27 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf Fell off top. Big fall. Pumpy especially with a cold.
Fell off top. Big fall. Pumpy especially with a cold.
Jim Tan ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
morganator 16 May, 2015 2nd rpt
with International Meet Guest
with International Meet Guest
Duncan Campbell 9 May, 2015 Lead O/S Awesome. Faffed around a lot getting kit sorted before pulling over onto the head wall. Once on it I got immediately flash pumped as I hadn't really warmed up. Felt like I was off a lot of times including clipping the peg off damp crimps! Tried so hard feel well rewarded with an onsight. Head wall was great, technical, crimpy and hard to read! Still felt tricky second time up when I seconded Guy up it.
with Wft
Awesome. Faffed around a lot getting kit sorted before pulling over onto the head wall. Once on it I got immediately flash pumped as I hadn't really warmed up. Felt like I was off a lot of times including clipping the peg off damp crimps! Tried so hard feel well rewarded with an onsight. Head wall was great, technical, crimpy and hard to read! Still felt tricky second time up when I seconded Guy up it.
with Wft
Hidden 9 May, 2015 Lead G/U
Ramon Marin 4 May, 2015 Lead rpt Never get tired of this route, did again for a second time for training
with viki harvey
Never get tired of this route, did again for a second time for training
with viki harvey
hamer89 ?May, 2015 Lead O/S International meet
International meet
nathanlee 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Ace! Flashpump!
with Jack Lawledge
Ace! Flashpump!
with Jack Lawledge
LRob 7 Apr, 2015 Lead β not a flash but did it over ten years ago so didn't remember too much. Just as pumped
not a flash but did it over ten years ago so didn't remember too much. Just as pumped
Tom Livingstone 26 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 26 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
papashango 20 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S pulled it out of the bag somehow!
with Phil
pulled it out of the bag somehow!
with Phil
Ed morris 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Yes! So psyched to onsight this after getting near terminal pump at the top peg (3rd day climbing). The last few meters of the head wall push it up to E5.
Yes! So psyched to onsight this after getting near terminal pump at the top peg (3rd day climbing). The last few meters of the head wall push it up to E5.
Hidden 6 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
Dizz 6 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Conor
with Conor
Tom Livingstone 28 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
with Calum Muskett
with Calum Muskett
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 17 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 11 Jul, 2014 Lead β Glad to box this off after failing on it years ago. Hot!
Glad to box this off after failing on it years ago. Hot!
Luxulyan 30 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Tom Murrell
with Tom Murrell
Ally Smith 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 6 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Really good climbing on the headwall.
Really good climbing on the headwall.
tim newton 6 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S War for me, Path for Rachel..?
War for me, Path for Rachel..?
Jake Young 17 May, 2014 2nd dog
with mwatson
with mwatson
Hidden 15 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 10 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
fennerz 10 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S mega pump
with Ed and Adam
mega pump
with Ed and Adam
Adam Booth 10 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Didn't think it was soft!
Didn't think it was soft!
mileshill540 ??, 2014 2nd
Tom Livingstone 30 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing climbing. Pumpy! I found it hard to read on the lower part of the headwall, but it might have been easier with better conditions, chalk and moving quickly.
with JezH
Amazing climbing. Pumpy! I found it hard to read on the lower part of the headwall, but it might have been easier with better conditions, chalk and moving quickly.
with JezH
Ramon Marin 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S I made a right meal out of this route. Managed to onsight, but just by the skin of my teeth. Terrible ropework saw me almost falling due ropedrag. An absolute classic route. Just don't wait until the end of day to warm down to do it, you need fresh guns for the upper wall.
with ciaran tracey
I made a right meal out of this route. Managed to onsight, but just by the skin of my teeth. Terrible ropework saw me almost falling due ropedrag. An absolute classic route. Just don't wait until the end of day to warm down to do it, you need fresh guns for the upper wall.
with ciaran tracey
soph 28 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
with Jonny Dawes
with Jonny Dawes
mike lawrence? 24 Jul, 2013 2nd Absolutely desperate, too hard for me and fell just before peg. Had a long rest and clawed my way up. Depressingly FatRob just pranced up it taking rests every other move when I couldn't get one on the headwall at all. Was going to lead Mask of Red Death but late and way too knackered.
Absolutely desperate, too hard for me and fell just before peg. Had a long rest and clawed my way up. Depressingly FatRob just pranced up it taking rests every other move when I couldn't get one on the headwall at all. Was going to lead Mask of Red Death but late and way too knackered.
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 Lead
geoff b 25 May, 2013 2nd
Steve Long 25 May, 2013 Lead
MikePycroft 25 May, 2013 2nd rpt Just!
Just!
Alex Mason 27 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt Jem fell off so I went up next. Such an ace headwall.
with Jemma Powell
Jem fell off so I went up next. Such an ace headwall.
with Jemma Powell
Hidden 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
mark20 27 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
willoates ??, 2013 Lead O/S I remember it being windy and my helmet going over my eyes!
with Glyn
I remember it being windy and my helmet going over my eyes!
with Glyn
Hidden 26 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
alaan 4 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Glyn 31 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Will Oates
with Will Oates
Hidden 14 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 27 Mar, 2012 Lead Stunning route.
with Dad
Stunning route.
with Dad
The old James turnbull ??, 2012 Lead O/S
with aiden
with aiden
Neil McA 7 Nov, 2011 2nd O/S
with James Turnbull
with James Turnbull
belay bunny turned bad 28 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with loundsy
with loundsy
Julian Cooper 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Scary traverse and a pumpy first half left me at the roof feeling tired. Big laybacks get you round the roof, and then I stepped left to get a small friend in. Wild moves to get the peg and keep moving to get the footholds and it suddenly feels like a path. Awesome.
with Ben Steel
Scary traverse and a pumpy first half left me at the roof feeling tired. Big laybacks get you round the roof, and then I stepped left to get a small friend in. Wild moves to get the peg and keep moving to get the footholds and it suddenly feels like a path. Awesome.
with Ben Steel
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 Lead dog
gforce 8 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S A great position.
with mavtu
A great position.
with mavtu
centurion05 7 Aug, 2011 Lead rpt Fell off this 4 days ago, I lost my balance on the upper headwall. Went well today. BETA; dont go direct to peg, head right and clip it off the crimps level with the peg.
Fell off this 4 days ago, I lost my balance on the upper headwall. Went well today. BETA; dont go direct to peg, head right and clip it off the crimps level with the peg.
3 Names 21 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf Rubbish attempt, spent too long on the first half, got pumped, lowered off.
Rubbish attempt, spent too long on the first half, got pumped, lowered off.
Alex Mason 20 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Despite this routes classic status, I didnt expect much. Awesome climbing in a stunning position. Not too hard over the roof, but keeps coming for about 10m after. Small cams handy.
with owain86
Despite this routes classic status, I didnt expect much. Awesome climbing in a stunning position. Not too hard over the roof, but keeps coming for about 10m after. Small cams handy.
with owain86
owain86 20 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Dave Searle 27 May, 2011 Lead O/S pulled a flake of on upper wall. managed to stay on despite it hitting me on the thigh! mega route.
pulled a flake of on upper wall. managed to stay on despite it hitting me on the thigh! mega route.
ksjs 11 May, 2011 2nd rpt My 4th time seconding this, need to lead it some time! Intrigued to see how it feels on the lead. Nearly blown off top wall by gusts.
with Joey
My 4th time seconding this, need to lead it some time! Intrigued to see how it feels on the lead. Nearly blown off top wall by gusts.
with Joey
ksjs 10 May, 2011 2nd rpt
with Paul S
with Paul S
Pippa 2 May, 2011 2nd
Steve Long 17 Apr, 2011 Lead
MikePycroft 17 Apr, 2011 2nd rpt Seconded Steve found it hard suprised I had tried to lead it last year.
Seconded Steve found it hard suprised I had tried to lead it last year.
barni 24 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
ksjs 18 Mar, 2011 2nd rpt Good fight from Jim! Superb climbing, easy to climb yourself into a dead end on the upper wall. Positive but physical requiring decent footwork. Get on it!
with Jim
Good fight from Jim! Superb climbing, easy to climb yourself into a dead end on the upper wall. Positive but physical requiring decent footwork. Get on it!
with Jim
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Martin Cooper 9 Oct, 2010 2nd
with Andrew
with Andrew
Hidden 9 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
soph ?Sep, 2010 Lead
with Duncan
with Duncan
Adam Lincoln 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Mick Lovatt
with Mick Lovatt
feilx 14 Aug, 2010 Lead dog
with La Mont
with La Mont
henwardian 13 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S First E5 onsight! pulled onto the upper wall only to discover that I had used the gear I needed and the peg was missing so had a 9 meter runout on hard ground before the safety of the ledge on the arete. I think fear alone kept me from taking a screaming dive! (couldn't pick a safer place to fall from though).
with Andy Latta
First E5 onsight! pulled onto the upper wall only to discover that I had used the gear I needed and the peg was missing so had a 9 meter runout on hard ground before the safety of the ledge on the arete. I think fear alone kept me from taking a screaming dive! (couldn't pick a safer place to fall from though).
with Andy Latta
dan gibson 30 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Mar, 2010 2nd
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 15 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 25 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with al & guy
with al & guy
Hidden 5 Jul, 2009 2nd
tuftynick 5 Jul, 2009 Lead rpt
with nick warren
with nick warren
JM ?Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Rory Shaw
with Rory Shaw
miastacey 3 May, 2009 2nd
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
malx ?May, 2009 Lead O/S
MikePycroft 26 Apr, 2009 Lead
pete johnson 26 Apr, 2009 2nd
Hidden 18 Oct, 2008 Lead β
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 Lead
Russell Birkett 21 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Andy Sharp, Neil Buzby
with Andy Sharp, Neil Buzby
morganator 14 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Stan Halstead and Es Tressider
with Stan Halstead and Es Tressider
Hidden 12 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
ksjs 1 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S short-lived but sustained and physical crux section. probably worth E5
with geraldine
short-lived but sustained and physical crux section. probably worth E5
with geraldine
Hidden 17 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
sadams 9 Sep, 2007 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
IOAN D 20 May, 2007 Lead O/S exposed!
with Mills
exposed!
with Mills
Mark Stevenson 11 May, 2007 Lead dnf
with Tania Noakes
with Tania Noakes
Kev Little ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Si Witcher ??, 2007 Lead rpt
Gus 9 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S war - PATH!
war - PATH!
pete johnson 15 May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
debsb ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Hidden ??, 2002 2nd
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?Jun, 2000 Lead O/S Great route. Not hard for E5. Bit intimidating launching out round the overlap. Have a thin tape sling handy. It goes on a small spike as soon as you get on the top wall. Once on the wall you can get your ballance and climb. It's lovely. I didn't bother with the peg. Looked like more trouble than it was worth.
with Special Robin
Great route. Not hard for E5. Bit intimidating launching out round the overlap. Have a thin tape sling handy. It goes on a small spike as soon as you get on the top wall. Once on the wall you can get your ballance and climb. It's lovely. I didn't bother with the peg. Looked like more trouble than it was worth.
with Special Robin
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 10 May, 1998 Lead O/S
sadams 15 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
with Team Midlands
Dave Musgrove Jnr 5 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
Mike_d78 2 Sep, 1996 2nd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 2 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
TCP ?May, 1996 Lead O/S Easy E5
Easy E5
Cowflinger ?Jun, 1995 2nd rpt
Cowflinger ?May, 1995 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 1995 2nd
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
Hidden 28 May, 1994 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 17 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S Also climbed a great link up Big Boys on the Warpath, connecting the hardest bits of both routes in one pumpy run out.
with karin
Also climbed a great link up Big Boys on the Warpath, connecting the hardest bits of both routes in one pumpy run out.
with karin
crossleysm ?Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
jfletcher 25 May, 1992 Lead O/S
with David Gilkes
with David Gilkes
UKB Shark ??, 1991 Lead O/S year a guess
with Nige White
year a guess
with Nige White
Mike Owen 7 May, 1990 Lead O/S
with Mike Twid Turner
with Mike Twid Turner
Hidden 8 Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 1990 Lead
William Robertson ??, 1988 Lead O/S Just great.
with Gordon Hemsley
Just great.
with Gordon Hemsley
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 55
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set