350m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic of the area featuring a spectacular 90m traverse at half height. The route is unfortunately showing signs of its popularity and is becoming quite polished. It is well equipped with many pitons of varying quality and many of the stances are equipped with belay rings.
Start just left of the hollow of a dry stream bed, on a ledge below a large thread at head height. Arrow and route graffiti.
1) V-, 25m. Climb direct then traverse slightly right on good holds above for your hands or below for your feet (any incredibly tall climbers out there have the privilege of using both!) to reach a natural break. Follow a series of short polished yet positive flakes direct to reach a grassy ledge and a possible peg belay, or traverse right for 5m to reach good ring bolt belay on a ledge.
2) VI-, 30m. Climb direct then move slightly left on black technical slabs on polished footholds, reaching better holds midway up. Continue to a small roof, and pass through this left to right on good holds, with a strenuous pull to gain the ledge.
3) IV+, 40m. Climb direct for 10m to a grassy ledge. Follow this left for another 10m, ignoring tat above, to reach a corner-chimney. Climb this to reach a grassy ledge and a ring belay.
4) VI-, 40m. Move up and left from the belay, then follow black rock back right on technical slabs for 20m before stepping right then back left onto a block. From here, continue to a yellow niche, then move left to climb a bulging detached spur - strenuous but on good holds.
5) V+, 40m. The start of the infamous traverse. Move up 1m then traverse right along a big ledge under yellow rock for 6-7m to reach a cement ring under yellow corner of Buhl Direct (possible belay). Descend slightly and continue the climb on polished but positive holds, traversing below the yellow rock. Move around a corner, then climb slightly upwards to belay on a double ring.
6) VI-, 20m. Follow the line of polished holds rising rightwards, then step down slightly and continue the delicate traverse up to reach a line of high holds, passing an intermediate belay. Continue to a technical down-climb of 4m, with logical but blind moves, before stepping right to the stance.
7) VI, 40m. Continue the traverse immediately right from the belay, then descend half a metre to a line of good holds. Follow these on a rising traverse for 8m then make another tricky down-climb, stepping left slightly to reach a good line of footholds leading back right.
8) V, 25m. Move right into a yellow corner-crack then traverse right under a little bulge and pull through with enjoyable climbing. Climb direct on easier grey rock towards the black streak on the right; climb a blocky crack to reach the top of a pillar and a good thread belay.
9) V, 50m. Climb the ramp of good holds to the left of the pillar, then follow the continuation crack up and left (possible intermediate belay on single peg and additional gear). Climb a couple of metres direct then continue moving left to a pegged stance.
10) V-, 50m. Climb a loose shallow corner with a few pegs then continue up the face above, still on slightly friable rock to reach a ledge and a stance.
11) IV+, 55m. Continue easily, climbing another short corner, then move right along a wide ledge to reach the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Goes up the popular Piz Ciaves S Wall via a 90m traverse. Not as serious as many would suggest as their are numerous pegs and abseil descents,. A good climb nontheless

Micheluzzi, Castiglioni 26 Sep 1935

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

Hidden 14/Oct AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 26/Aug AltLd O/S
with Ian
emma1987 21/Aug AltLd

Lead odd pitches - what a beautiful climb, every pitch was brilliant!

with lukey13
lukey13 21/Aug AltLd O/S
with Emma :)
The Grist 20/Jul AltLd O/S

Straightforward. Nice enough climbing. Long descent.

Hidden 13/Jul AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul Lead
Bernie L 26/May Lead O/S

Lead all the pitches somewhere between 5:30-6 hours. Simon's first multi pitch so were a bit slow at the belays

with Simon Do
Alex Riley 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Led the odd pitches. Some route finding troubles on the last few pitches but straightforward enough. Traverse is awesome.

Dizz 16/Aug/16 AltLd dnf

Abbed off before traverse due to time and rain ...

with Martina
FlavioL1989 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
kingjam 09/Jul/16 AltLd

Led first 3.5 pitches , wjat a route

cdpuk 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P5, 6, 7 and 8. 5.5 hrs in a three.

RobScarisbrick 09/Jul/16 AltLd
with cdpuk
james.slater 28/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Totally underestimated how long a 400m long trad route takes! The traverse pitches are the highlight!

Hidden 22/Jul/15 AltLd
mes32 22/Jul/15 Lead

Led pitches 1+3 and all three traverse pitches (5,6,7). At end of crux pitch it started raining increasingly heavily. Retreat not feasible (can you ab straight down from the end of pitch 7? Didn't fancy trying over the big roofs and then have to prussik back up...). Climbed on. Full-on storm. Led pitches 8/9/10 in hail with lightning striking on rock close by. Very frightening. Led pitches 11 plus a bonus 12th to get us out. Wet and slimy, no gear, pretty scary. Happy to get off in one piece. For the record, no storms were forecast and the one that happened came in late morning which was very unusual. Lots of other parties on routes near us who also got caught. Probably was an amazing route otherwise!

with Lina
Jim Slater 21/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Good quality climbing all the way. Charlie went way off line on P6 traverse and had to follow a difficult descent to get back on route. On second I used a bail crab to retrieve the gear and to enable safe down climbing. Led P7 crux pitch, steady E1ish climbing.

with Charlie
Kevster 09/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Its all in the traverse. The rest is a little forgettable. Made a couple of route finding errors low down and the top section was choose your own run out adventure.

Hidden 03/Oct/14 AltLd
james1978 ?/Sep/14 AltLd
with pam
tcn_2002 14/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
jcw ??/2014 -
AndyL 03/Sep/13 -
burto 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with andy latham, calum
duncan 31/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Hugo Glover
Hidden 31/Jul/13 2nd dog
pete johnson ?/Sep/12 -
with Rob
John Nuttall 19/Jul/12 AltLd

Worth 3 stars despite noise from motorbikes on road below crag.

with Andy H
drysori 06/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

4 pitches. The threat of thunder made us retreat for some sport climbing. The weather turned out ok for most of the day, but some heavy showers arrived about when we would've topped out.

RobbieT ?/Jun/12 2nd dnf

Bailed due to thunder storm and needing a change of underwear after feeling the big flake on the traverse peel backwards as I weighted it.

Peter Holder 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Josh Legg
Em66 ?/Jun/11 2nd
with Mat
josh william legg ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
dominic lee 02/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Did this with dad and dan in 78

nathanlee 02/Sep/10 2nd β

Fantastic climbing on the traverse on perfect rock!

with Dom Lee
Hidden 23/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 10/Aug/10 -
Hidden 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ?/Jul/10 -

Felt a bit cheated - a big Dolomite route with all the cruxes on slabs! Where did the jug pulling chimneys go... :)

with am
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Kopo ?/Aug/09 -
with Emmi
Hidden 24/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 24/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

All done in the morning. A pleasant route

with Dan cook and Nik Goile
Dunx ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Josh
richjm ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Joe Harrison
Hidden ??/2009 -
Nicos 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/06 AltLd
cem 07/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with Bryan Rynne
alpinist63 22/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
akhughes ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
Hidden 30/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
Jan.Hrb ??/2003 AltLd
with Martin K.
NickJH ?/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
tjekel ??/1992 -
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead
uphillnow 29/Jul/79 AltLd

Chasing "Extreme Alpine Rock" routes. Climbed to the Gamsband. A fine route, now polished I'm told.Thunder clouds were developing and a storm started when we reached ourcampsite. Another member of our group was killed by lightening on another route.

with Al Bennett
Martin Bennett 05/Aug/75 -
with RA
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High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set