350m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic of the area featuring a spectacular 90m traverse at half height. The route is unfortunately showing signs of its popularity and is becoming quite polished. It is well equipped with many pitons of varying quality and many of the stances are equipped with belay rings.
Start just left of the hollow of a dry stream bed, on a ledge below a large thread at head height. Arrow and route graffiti.
1) V-, 25m. Climb direct then traverse slightly right on good holds above for your hands or below for your feet (any incredibly tall climbers out there have the privilege of using both!) to reach a natural break. Follow a series of short polished yet positive flakes direct to reach a grassy ledge and a possible peg belay, or traverse right for 5m to reach good ring bolt belay on a ledge.
2) VI-, 30m. Climb direct then move slightly left on black technical slabs on polished footholds, reaching better holds midway up. Continue to a small roof, and pass through this left to right on good holds, with a strenuous pull to gain the ledge.
3) IV+, 40m. Climb direct for 10m to a grassy ledge. Follow this left for another 10m, ignoring tat above, to reach a corner-chimney. Climb this to reach a grassy ledge and a ring belay.
4) VI-, 40m. Move up and left from the belay, then follow black rock back right on technical slabs for 20m before stepping right then back left onto a block. From here, continue to a yellow niche, then move left to climb a bulging detached spur - strenuous but on good holds.
5) V+, 40m. The start of the infamous traverse. Move up 1m then traverse right along a big ledge under yellow rock for 6-7m to reach a cement ring under yellow corner of Buhl Direct (possible belay). Descend slightly and continue the climb on polished but positive holds, traversing below the yellow rock. Move around a corner, then climb slightly upwards to belay on a double ring.
6) VI-, 20m. Follow the line of polished holds rising rightwards, then step down slightly and continue the delicate traverse up to reach a line of high holds, passing an intermediate belay. Continue to a technical down-climb of 4m, with logical but blind moves, before stepping right to the stance.
7) VI, 40m. Continue the traverse immediately right from the belay, then descend half a metre to a line of good holds. Follow these on a rising traverse for 8m then make another tricky down-climb, stepping left slightly to reach a good line of footholds leading back right.
8) V, 25m. Move right into a yellow corner-crack then traverse right under a little bulge and pull through with enjoyable climbing. Climb direct on easier grey rock towards the black streak on the right; climb a blocky crack to reach the top of a pillar and a good thread belay.
9) V, 50m. Climb the ramp of good holds to the left of the pillar, then follow the continuation crack up and left (possible intermediate belay on single peg and additional gear). Climb a couple of metres direct then continue moving left to a pegged stance.
10) V-, 50m. Climb a loose shallow corner with a few pegs then continue up the face above, still on slightly friable rock to reach a ledge and a stance.
11) IV+, 55m. Continue easily, climbing another short corner, then move right along a wide ledge to reach the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Goes up the popular Piz Ciaves S Wall via a 90m traverse. Not as serious as many would suggest as their are numerous pegs and abseil descents,. A good climb nontheless

Micheluzzi, Castiglioni 26 Sep 1935

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Mike Hood 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Louvet 16 Sep, 2018 2nd Gave up stopping short of traverse
Gave up stopping short of traverse
Dexter JW 9 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Ben Cianchi 9 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S I lead the easy first pitch, Dex took everything else. Topped out at night after going wildly off route, then took a multiple abseil route down a gully. Pretty full on day.
I lead the easy first pitch, Dex took everything else. Topped out at night after going wildly off route, then took a multiple abseil route down a gully. Pretty full on day.
DanielGyi 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Straightforward but awesome. Got very off route somehow and went up way left of the actual route which was very sketchy with minimal gear. Big run outside and very adventurous. Rockfax reckons gulley is downclimbable but not advised, just abseil the ascent on good bolt abs all the way.
Straightforward but awesome. Got very off route somehow and went up way left of the actual route which was very sketchy with minimal gear. Big run outside and very adventurous. Rockfax reckons gulley is downclimbable but not advised, just abseil the ascent on good bolt abs all the way.
Hidden 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
s.hunter ?Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori 28 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
with Tommaso Regesta
with Tommaso Regesta
Hidden 14 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
emma1987 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd Lead odd pitches - what a beautiful climb, every pitch was brilliant!
with lukey13
Lead odd pitches - what a beautiful climb, every pitch was brilliant!
with lukey13
Hidden 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
The Grist 20 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Straightforward. Nice enough climbing. Long descent.
Straightforward. Nice enough climbing. Long descent.
Hidden 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2017 Lead
Bernie L 26 May, 2017 Lead O/S Lead all the pitches somewhere between 5:30-6 hours. Simon's first multi pitch so were a bit slow at the belays
with Simon Do
Lead all the pitches somewhere between 5:30-6 hours. Simon's first multi pitch so were a bit slow at the belays
with Simon Do
Hidden 18 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Dizz 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf Abbed off before traverse due to time and rain ...
with Martina
Abbed off before traverse due to time and rain ...
with Martina
Flavio 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
kingjam 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd Led first 3.5 pitches , wjat a route
Led first 3.5 pitches , wjat a route
cdpuk 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P5, 6, 7 and 8. 5.5 hrs in a three.
Led P5, 6, 7 and 8. 5.5 hrs in a three.
RobScarisbrick 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
james.slater 28 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Totally underestimated how long a 400m long trad route takes! The traverse pitches are the highlight!
Totally underestimated how long a 400m long trad route takes! The traverse pitches are the highlight!
Hidden 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd
mes32 22 Jul, 2015 Lead Led pitches 1+3 and all three traverse pitches (5,6,7). At end of crux pitch it started raining increasingly heavily. Retreat not feasible (can you ab straight down from the end of pitch 7? Didn't fancy trying over the big roofs and then have to prussik back up...). Climbed on. Full-on storm. Led pitches 8/9/10 in hail with lightning striking on rock close by. Very frightening. Led pitches 11 plus a bonus 12th to get us out. Wet and slimy, no gear, pretty scary. Happy to get off in one piece. For the record, no storms were forecast and the one that happened came in late morning which was very unusual. Lots of other parties on routes near us who also got caught. Probably was an amazing route otherwise!
with Lina
Led pitches 1+3 and all three traverse pitches (5,6,7). At end of crux pitch it started raining increasingly heavily. Retreat not feasible (can you ab straight down from the end of pitch 7? Didn't fancy trying over the big roofs and then have to prussik back up...). Climbed on. Full-on storm. Led pitches 8/9/10 in hail with lightning striking on rock close by. Very frightening. Led pitches 11 plus a bonus 12th to get us out. Wet and slimy, no gear, pretty scary. Happy to get off in one piece. For the record, no storms were forecast and the one that happened came in late morning which was very unusual. Lots of other parties on routes near us who also got caught. Probably was an amazing route otherwise!
with Lina
Jim Slater 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Good quality climbing all the way. Charlie went way off line on P6 traverse and had to follow a difficult descent to get back on route. On second I used a bail crab to retrieve the gear and to enable safe down climbing. Led P7 crux pitch, steady E1ish climbing.
with Charlie
Good quality climbing all the way. Charlie went way off line on P6 traverse and had to follow a difficult descent to get back on route. On second I used a bail crab to retrieve the gear and to enable safe down climbing. Led P7 crux pitch, steady E1ish climbing.
with Charlie
Paul Eckton 9 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 9 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Its all in the traverse. The rest is a little forgettable. Made a couple of route finding errors low down and the top section was choose your own run out adventure.
Its all in the traverse. The rest is a little forgettable. Made a couple of route finding errors low down and the top section was choose your own run out adventure.
Hidden 3 Oct, 2014 AltLd
james1978 ?Sep, 2014 AltLd
with pam
with pam
tcn_2002 14 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
jcw ??, 2014 -
AndyL 3 Sep, 2013 -
burto 2 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with andy latham, calum
with andy latham, calum
duncan 31 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Hugo Glover
with Hugo Glover
Hidden 31 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
pete johnson 7 Sep, 2012 -
with Rob
with Rob
John Nuttall 19 Jul, 2012 AltLd Worth 3 stars despite noise from motorbikes on road below crag.
with Andy H
Worth 3 stars despite noise from motorbikes on road below crag.
with Andy H
Wil Treasure 6 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf 4 pitches. The threat of thunder made us retreat for some sport climbing. The weather turned out ok for most of the day, but some heavy showers arrived about when we would've topped out.
4 pitches. The threat of thunder made us retreat for some sport climbing. The weather turned out ok for most of the day, but some heavy showers arrived about when we would've topped out.
RobbieT ?Jun, 2012 2nd dnf Bailed due to thunder storm and needing a change of underwear after feeling the big flake on the traverse peel backwards as I weighted it.
Bailed due to thunder storm and needing a change of underwear after feeling the big flake on the traverse peel backwards as I weighted it.
Peter Holder 15 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Josh Legg
with Josh Legg
Em66 ?Jun, 2011 2nd
with Freg1
with Freg1
josh william legg ?Jun, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 -
dominic lee 2 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt Did this with dad and dan in 78
Did this with dad and dan in 78
nathanlee 2 Sep, 2010 2nd β Fantastic climbing on the traverse on perfect rock!
Fantastic climbing on the traverse on perfect rock!
steveb2006 23 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Chris Parkin
with Chris Parkin
Hidden 10 Aug, 2010 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ?Jul, 2010 - Felt a bit cheated - a big Dolomite route with all the cruxes on slabs! Where did the jug pulling chimneys go... :)
with AJM
Felt a bit cheated - a big Dolomite route with all the cruxes on slabs! Where did the jug pulling chimneys go... :)
with AJM
Hidden 5 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Kopo ?Aug, 2009 -
with Emmi
with Emmi
Hidden 24 Jul, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 24 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 24 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S All done in the morning. A pleasant route
with Dan cook and Nik Goile
All done in the morning. A pleasant route
with Dan cook and Nik Goile
Dunx ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Josh
with Josh
richjm ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Joe Harrison
with Joe Harrison
Hidden ??, 2009 -
Mihkel 16 Jul, 2006 AltLd 12p. Exploratory! Tricky route finding: lost line several times (much deceptive polish and tat). First half of route to the traverse was a freestyle (prob part of Buhl). "Oh my god! Oh my god!!" - Mike got his sunglasses sprayed by an unidentified reptile/snake on an attempted (hard!) traverse - which he was then able to reverse very quickly! We then chose a different line, and I led out a 60m pitch of underprotected tricksome climbing. Couple of pitches later, I took a lenghty fall off a traverse when tat snapped as I was lowering back down to true line. Second half without incident. 7 hrs (gbt+2).
with Mike Barclay
12p. Exploratory! Tricky route finding: lost line several times (much deceptive polish and tat). First half of route to the traverse was a freestyle (prob part of Buhl). "Oh my god! Oh my god!!" - Mike got his sunglasses sprayed by an unidentified reptile/snake on an attempted (hard!) traverse - which he was then able to reverse very quickly! We then chose a different line, and I led out a 60m pitch of underprotected tricksome climbing. Couple of pitches later, I took a lenghty fall off a traverse when tat snapped as I was lowering back down to true line. Second half without incident. 7 hrs (gbt+2).
with Mike Barclay
cem 7 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Bryan Rynne
with Bryan Rynne
alpinist63 22 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
akhughes ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
Hidden 30 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
Jan.Hrb ??, 2003 AltLd
with Martin K.
with Martin K.
NickJH ?Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
with JThomas
peterbeaumont ??, 1998 AltLd
tjekel ??, 1992 -
clampton ?Jun, 1987 Lead
with Cammy Phair
with Cammy Phair
uphillnow 29 Jul, 1979 AltLd Chasing "Extreme Alpine Rock" routes. Climbed to the Gamsband. A fine route, now polished I'm told.Thunder clouds were developing and a storm started when we reached ourcampsite. Another member of our group was killed by lightening on another route.
with Al Bennett
Chasing "Extreme Alpine Rock" routes. Climbed to the Gamsband. A fine route, now polished I'm told.Thunder clouds were developing and a storm started when we reached ourcampsite. Another member of our group was killed by lightening on another route.
with Al Bennett
Martin Bennett 5 Aug, 1975 -
with RA
with RA
14 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set