Rockfax Description
A hard and impressive climb tackling the steep walls and corners between The White Wizard and The Nazgul. Start as for Botterill's Slab. Unfortunately both of the main pitches become dirty unless they see regular traffic.
1) 4a, 18m. As for pitch 1 of The Nazgul.
2) 6b, 30m. Climb the small slanting slab on the left and move over a bulge to a line of layaway holds (peg). Climb up the thin wall to a jug before moving left and up to a small ledge. Continue direct to a pinnacle (possible belay), then move up right to a ledge and belay.
3) 6a, 35m. Move rightwards to the base of an overhanging corner. Follow the difficult corner to join and finish as for The White Wizard. © Rockfax

M. & R.H. Berzins, C.Sowden May/1977.

Ticklists

100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , Tolkien route names , 3* Extreme Northern Trad

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