94m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A hard and impressive climb tackling the steep walls and corners between The White Wizard and The Nazgul. Start as for Botterill's Slab. Unfortunately both of the main pitches become dirty unless they see regular traffic.
1) 4a, 18m. As for pitch 1 of The Nazgul.
2) 6b, 30m. Climb the small slanting slab on the left and move over a bulge to a line of layaway holds (peg). Climb up the thin wall to a jug before moving left and up to a small ledge. Continue direct to a pinnacle (possible belay) then move up right to a ledge and belay.
3) 6a, 35m. Move rightwards to the base of an overhanging corner. Follow the difficult corner to join and finish as for The White Wizard. © Rockfax

M. & R.H. Berzins, C.Sowden May/1977

Ticklists

100 or so good E6s - aye Caff

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ssebo 1 Jul, 2018 Lead β Did the crux pitch after abseil inspection and got all the beta from dan. Still had to slap for the jug ledge off the crimps. Did the second pitch the day before whilst dan was working the lower pitch. Super dirty but cleaner now. This pitch alone felt E5 in the dirt, maybe E4 when cleaned. Brilliant route.
with Dan
Did the crux pitch after abseil inspection and got all the beta from dan. Still had to slap for the jug ledge off the crimps. Did the second pitch the day before whilst dan was working the lower pitch. Super dirty but cleaner now. This pitch alone felt E5 in the dirt, maybe E4 when cleaned. Brilliant route.
with Dan
Dan Arkle 1 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Definitely E6, but a big fallout zone means its not a dangerous one. Cleaned on ab, toproped lots and led p1 - superb. Take lots of tiny cams. Followed ssebo up p2 the day before, which is safe e5 to onsight in its dirty state.
with Ssebo
Definitely E6, but a big fallout zone means its not a dangerous one. Cleaned on ab, toproped lots and led p1 - superb. Take lots of tiny cams. Followed ssebo up p2 the day before, which is safe e5 to onsight in its dirty state.
with Ssebo
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
piken 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd hard to find the crimps on the lead although perfectly cleaned. Top pitch was dirty as.
hard to find the crimps on the lead although perfectly cleaned. Top pitch was dirty as.
Ged Desforges 26 Jun, 2010 Lead Fell off the crimps at the top, spicy crux moves! The route was filthy, placements had to be cleaned out and holds cleaned. Crimps on the crux very hard to find. Seems like it's not been done for a while. Shame as it's a 4 star route. Get on it whilst it's chalked and relatively clean! Solid E5 i thought
Fell off the crimps at the top, spicy crux moves! The route was filthy, placements had to be cleaned out and holds cleaned. Crimps on the crux very hard to find. Seems like it's not been done for a while. Shame as it's a 4 star route. Get on it whilst it's chalked and relatively clean! Solid E5 i thought
Tom Briggs 1 Jul, 2006 Lead Had taken a 60 footer off this in 2005. Felt v hard for the grade.
with Ed Brown
Had taken a 60 footer off this in 2005. Felt v hard for the grade.
with Ed Brown
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd
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