Rockfax Description
The soaring corner-line on the right side of the face is a serious climb that requires lots of large gear on its top pitch, plus nerve and skill to deal with the rock and vegetation on the first. Start at an awkward stance directly beneath the corner reached via a scramble up a grassy ramp and chimney.
1) 5b, 26m. Pass a low bulge, peg, and continue to another bulge at 12m. Move around the bulge and climb the corner above past a peg to two more pegs. Continue up the corner passing a useful large cam-notch to a stance and belay where the corner lies back. Old pegs, nut and large cams.
2) 5a, 22m. The corner now starts to overhang but is well protected with large cams and nuts. A recent rockfall has left some loose material just before the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK Extreme Corners

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 25 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Stanners 25 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S I had Pitch 1. Jack had pitch 2. Mark sunbathed and took photos at the bottom. A 'memorable' route. Potential for death or worse a lot of the way but a truly outrageous and adventurous line none the less. Moments of gear you can sort of trust on pitch 1 but they are soon far below you as you sheepishly pull on flexing flakes and crumbling footholds. Lots of medium and large cams are a must. Pulling around onto the belay of pitch 1 is some serious stuff and no laughing matter requiring an extremely cool head. Pegs are awful and shouldn't be trusted in the slightest. (Was chuffed to thread a microwire around the second one). Truly on the limits of outrageous extremeness or stupidity...im not sure. What is certain though is that it is a king line which tempted me too much and so glad to share it with Jack, good to see you back in action sir! whats it doing in a rockfax book?!
with Mark davies, Quarryboy
I had Pitch 1. Jack had pitch 2. Mark sunbathed and took photos at the bottom. A 'memorable' route. Potential for death or worse a lot of the way but a truly outrageous and adventurous line none the less. Moments of gear you can sort of trust on pitch 1 but they are soon far below you as you sheepishly pull on flexing flakes and crumbling footholds. Lots of medium and large cams are a must. Pulling around onto the belay of pitch 1 is some serious stuff and no laughing matter requiring an extremely cool head. Pegs are awful and shouldn't be trusted in the slightest. (Was chuffed to thread a microwire around the second one). Truly on the limits of outrageous extremeness or stupidity...im not sure. What is certain though is that it is a king line which tempted me too much and so glad to share it with Jack, good to see you back in action sir! whats it doing in a rockfax book?!
with Mark davies, Quarryboy
kingholmesy ??, 2016 AltLd O/S Take lots of medium and big cams.
with Colin
Take lots of medium and big cams.
with Colin
datoon 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Hmm... Traction control all the way. And a prickly exit and pricklier descent. Quality tradventure.
with datoon
Hmm... Traction control all the way. And a prickly exit and pricklier descent. Quality tradventure.
with datoon
PeterDawson 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S scary was bricking it
scary was bricking it
Luke Dawson 19 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S enjoyed this, very different the second peg in the first pitch is a joke.
with Mike Adams, PeterDawson
enjoyed this, very different the second peg in the first pitch is a joke.
with Mike Adams, PeterDawson
Tubs 26 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Loose, wet, bold and vegetated. Excellent.
with Dave M
Loose, wet, bold and vegetated. Excellent.
with Dave M
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Bobby Gilbert 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Definitely only 5b. Definitely E3! Pays to have a sense of humour when clipping the pegs. Make sure you take big runners.
Definitely only 5b. Definitely E3! Pays to have a sense of humour when clipping the pegs. Make sure you take big runners.
katherinesydney 10 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S loose! good fun to second
loose! good fun to second
Mark Kemball 11 Feb, 2006 2nd Backed off the first pitch near the top. Nic top-roped to my high point then lead the rest.
with Nic Dill
Backed off the first pitch near the top. Nic top-roped to my high point then lead the rest.
with Nic Dill
duncan 18 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Hidden 22 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Apr, 1998 Lead O/S
leadmat ??, 1997 - epic. very loose finish with little gear on last pitch. stunted oak trees make for an interesting descent
with Graham Fleury
epic. very loose finish with little gear on last pitch. stunted oak trees make for an interesting descent
with Graham Fleury
Derek Ryden 2 Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Jim Cheshire
with Jim Cheshire
Hidden ?Aug, 1994 -
Brian Wilderspin 1 May, 1994 AltLd O/S
frank ramsay 16 Jul, 1989 Solo Backrope solo.
Backrope solo.
Hidden ?May, 1989 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 20 Jul, 1985 Lead
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
Seb Grieve 20 Jul, 1985 2nd Seconded both pitches. Felt extremely loose!
with Simon Lee
Seconded both pitches. Felt extremely loose!
with Simon Lee
Hammy 16 Aug, 1981 AltLd
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
Hidden ??, 1979 -
Hidden 26 Jun, 1978 AltLd
4 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set