Rockfax Description
One of Cornwall's greatest VS routes. High in the grade and requiring a broad selection of techniques, the line follows the huge corner up the middle of Bishop's Buttress before making a memorable leftwards traverse to clear the huge roof. Start at a short crack just left of the corner-line.
1) 4c, 20m. Move up to a long ledge and then move right into the wide crack. Climb the slab and corner right of the wide crack (or the wide crack itself) to join up with the wide crack once again at 7m. Climb the widening crack awkwardly to a stance in the back of the crack beneath the roof.
2) 5a, 10m. Make a technical horizontal traverse left across the face and move up a little way to a stance where the overhang fades. (The crack that runs underneath the roof to the stance may also be climbed at around the same standard).
3) 4a, 15m. Climb cracks in the wall directly above the stance to a large ledge and block-belays.
4) 4b, 11m. The line of steep thin cracks above the centre of the ledge as for Flannel Avenue. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Classic Corners, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

steve.aisthorpe 07/Oct/16 AltLd
with John Lyall
Hidden ?/Oct/16 AltLd
LJC 21/Sep/16 AltLd O/S


with Theo
theocelano 21/Sep/16 AltLd

lead pitch 3

with luca
Julian Prieto 17/Sep/16 AltLd rpt

Led P2

Roget 16/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with jon
Dilwat 11/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Rory
Rory Black 11/Aug/16 -
with Ian
Hidden 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
manbat 23/Jul/16 AltLd rpt

I led pitches 1 and 2. I found p1 hardest by far. A great pitch, sustained 4c. The roof traverse is a doddle, massive holds, obvious feet. It is a great route.

with Laura Packford
climbingisgreat 22/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Adrian Moore, Ruth Moore
Hidden 22/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
andycash 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Zoltan Szakmary
Hidden 25/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
David Staples 25/Jun/16 AltLd
Scott Quinn 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

in two pitches, led p1+2 together

Tom.Priestley 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led P3&4 Thought P1 was the hardest!

leerybunny 05/Jun/16 Lead
with Alan Dovey
Blue Straggler 03/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3 although seconding the horizontal traverse of P2 of course is "a bit like" leading. P3 and P4 a bit of a letdown for a "Top 50" route though at least P3 was long and fun. P1 is hard at the grade. Interestingly this route gets HVS 5a, 5a, 4a, 4b in Rowland Edwards and Tim Denell's "Cornish Rock". I don't agree with HVS but might give P1 a 5a technical for the final few metres.

Hidden 24/May/16 AltLd O/S
francois 23/Apr/16 AltLd

Led P2&4

with Mike K
Tom Seccombe 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
mapperley samurai 25/Mar/16 AltLd

Combined pitches to do as 2, Blake 1+2, me 3+4. Very wet under the roof.

benwarrick 06/Mar/16 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
CMCM ??/2016 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3.

Skinnybloke 03/Oct/15 AltLd

Lead p2 & 4, fighting my demonds on p2! Tough moves at top of p1 well done mate.

clubmanpete 03/Oct/15 AltLd

what an adventure.... I defo found the first pitch harder than the roof traverse... maybe it just want to my strengths I dunno.. all in all a cracking climb and disserved of it top 50 status. that being said its not to be taken lightly those who are new to Cornish granite and think oh is only a vs be carful its a tough one... top 2 pitches easy enough

Ben1983 25/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 05/Sep/15 AltLd
with Graham Baxter
Graham Baxter 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Steveb27 01/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/15 AltLd
HaleAlex ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb! I thoroughly enjoyed the first pitch. A taste or real crack climbing with good bridging throughout making it feel less scary. lead P1 and P3. Alec lead P2 and P4.

cathymiller 29/Aug/15 AltLd dog
Samuel Wainwright 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

First two pitches were brilliant - the chimney was a real fight!

with Fred Morgan
jvarmstrong 17/Jul/15 AltLd

led p1&3

with Chris
Chris Manasseh 17/Jul/15 AltLd

Led 2+4

with John Armstrong
Hidden 10/Jul/15 AltLd
Okecroak 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Chris Ebbutt 21/Jun/15 AltLd

1st and 3rd pitches

with Dave R.
Hidden 20/Jun/15 AltLd dog
mark4344 20/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Andreas/Felix
partz 19/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2+4. Sh*tting myself traversing the roof! Opted for the small face holds stepping up into jams. Well protected all the way along... superb position! Probably not for the faint hearted

beakerburgess 19/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1, P2 and P4. Tim lead P3

JonnyW 19/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3 - Interesting first pitch with some awkard moves for what seems like a straight forward climb (maybe I just wanted to throw some shapes in my hungover state?!). Ballsy roof traverse made by Matt!

steveprice.exmouth 18/Jun/15 AltLd
with Graham Mead
Andrew Wright 15/Jun/15 2nd
with Craig Osborne
NancyJones 04/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Dad
Hidden 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
foostu4 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Pete Jones 04/Jun/15 2nd
TimSolway ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 30/May/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 + 4

with Malcolm
suds_01 26/May/15 AltLd
with Tom Horton
dbrooks 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p2 in one

with gidmord
gidmord 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead p3

with dbrooks
jon_ridley 16/May/15 Lead O/S


Hidden 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
petegruf 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with fiona d
fulton333 25/Mar/15 AltLd


with Luke CUC
Hidden ??/2015 -
BushwackerBritz ??/2015 -
CraigOsborne ??/2015 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ??/2015 -
mattkemp70 ??/2015 -
Hidden 22/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
andrea83 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, Hamish lead P1 and P3 and P4 (linked together).

with Hamish
Hamish777 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Wonderful, very varied climbing on P1 which left me knackered.

with Andrea
sheelba 27/Sep/14 AltLd

Incredible first pitch, great fun

rd20 11/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

RD odd pitches

with Ted CC
John Nuttall 08/Sep/14 Lead
with Sharon
J.A.Thomson 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Dan
gripped01 23/Aug/14 2nd
with Dave Tait
Hidden 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd
bencole 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Dad
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
JoeCoxson 27/Jul/14 Lead dnf

What a mess. Dave started leading up the first pitch, getting past the slabs quite happily, then got himself into an awkward position in the crack above. After a bit of squeezing, his back slipped off the wall, causing him to fall headfirst about 8m. How he came off with just a hole in his knee and pretty looking graze is a minor miracle. After sorting that mess out, I grabbed Luke and took the lead on the first pitch, getting to the same spot, and gallantly chickened out. I reluctantly down climbed the 4c slabs, taking out gear as I went. We made it back to the abseil only just avoiding wet feet, and scrambled back up. Beers were needed. I'll be back.

with Dave Morgan, Luke Gorman
DaveGoesClimbing 27/Jul/14 Lead dnf
mountaingoatgirl 26/Jul/14 2nd
with John C, Steve C
Bullybones 25/Jun/14 AltLd
with Neil
kyaizawa 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. Thought the traverse pitch was ok, but did need a bit of deviation to get good gear - ended up stepping quite high (though not quite as high as the roof) to get wires in a small crack before stepping down with difficulty to return to the holds and cam.

Hidden 18/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Trobbo 14/Jun/14 2nd
with martin dale
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Drew M ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 27/May/14 AltLd

Led P1 + P2 in single pitch, Dave P3 + P4

with Dave Marshall, TimKnight
TimKnight 26/May/14 2nd O/S

Nice morning in the sunshine watching Paul and Dave leading

with Dave Marshall, Paul Anker
mikehenesy 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Tom lead the first pitch, the slabby bit being a bit cheeky. He, of all people, then misread the top big crack and despite being reminded it was only VS doggedly refused to let it beat him and battled up body jamming himself in to quite a lather. I found the holds and veritably walzed up the outside. Once I'd stopped laughing a sweat sodden Beockx belayed me along the suprisingly amenable but non the less thrilling traverse. Peachy.

with Tom Boeux
Hidden ?/May/14 AltLd
LovelyMrTom 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Paul lead p1 and 2, I lead p3 and 4

Kirill 19/Apr/14 AltLd rpt

Led P1, P3+4 this time.

with Philine Huß, Charles Moreton
cem 19/Apr/14 AltLd rpt

Led p2

with Philine Huß, Kirill Spiridonov
Paul Baxter 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P2. Awesome climbing - but agree with others that P1 is the crux as it's far more sustained than P2.

jchenoweth 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ginger Alan
Jules Lane 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Dan P1 and P2 as one in good style, despite 'hating' the awkward move over / round the leaning block before the P1 belay ledge, and I combined P3 and P4.

with Dan
spragglerocks 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1

Lumbering Oaf 17/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with David, Rach Spraggs
Batt 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Not 5a! P1 more 5a

David Kay 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Dan Lane 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

I led P1 and 2 in a oner. I thought P1 was harder than P2! good moves across under the overhang though.

with Dad
Dan_Carroll 16/Apr/14 Solo
Jess Mills 15/Apr/14 2nd
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with andrew marshall
Hidden ??/2014 -
cymjt ??/2014 -
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Rassapotimus 27/Sep/13 AltLd dog

Slipped off rounding out of the traverse, good swinging. Led from first belay to the top.

minexplorer 27/Sep/13 AltLd

led 1&2nd pitch in one with an extender in cave roof.sam led top pitch.great layback/bridging mixture needed on 1st part.great stuff!

with sam
smallerrich 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3

DaveThexton 12/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Tim Bevan 12/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/13 AltLd
masa-alpin 25/Aug/13 AltLd rpt

I lead P1, 2, and Michelle did P3, 4. In the middle of P1, I took the chimney as I had done before, marginally protected by a skyhook as I didn't have a big enough gear, and found it to be still pretty tough (5a/b). Michelle took in seconding the slab to the right and found it to be easier (4b) and well protected. Doh!

with Michelle A
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
PilarMartinez 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led the first pitch, quite hard and the last two in one, awesome climb, def a super route.

with TheCherokee
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/13 AltLd
Robs_Uren ?/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Caitlin ?/Aug/13 Lead
bpmclimb 24/Jul/13 Lead rpt

The traverse pitch was rather wet, which made it a bit worrying.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 24/Jul/13 2nd
carlgodfrey 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with neil stubbs
neilstubbs 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I led 1, Carl led the traverse (forgot his harness so made do with a sling!) and I led 3 and 4 together to finish.

Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Fletch 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Matthew Robinson
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
ClareSenny 30/May/13 2nd
with Maurice Birkill, Sarah Birkill
therat 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
Joe_white 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
with James
auld al 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/13 -
Westy 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 19/May/13 AltLd rpt

Led P1 and P2. Matt led P3 and P4. Such a great climb!!!

manbat 19/May/13 AltLd O/S

Tried to leave the first pitch, but bailed - couldn't get the courage to get established on the slab. In hindsight I think it was a good move - I would have struggled on that one! Second pitch scary, but interesting, and quite pleasant. Lead 3rd and 4th pitches. 4th pitch was quite interesting too.

Bristoldave 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Caroline
adie84 ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
janegallwey ??/2013 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -
Dave Mahon ??/2013 AltLd

I led P2 via the lower, more technical route. It was wet and it felt rather iffy. I surprised myself by not falling off. Justin had a good time leading the rest of the route. Hard for the grade.

with Justin Sharpe
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Matt Smith 28/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Ran P1 and P2 together, Joe P3 and P4. Possibly one of my favourite leading experiences ever. Lots of varied climbing in wild positions, a passing seal even seemed to approve and watched us for a while.

Lumbering Oaf 17/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3+P4. Awesome cave belay atop P1! A really great route and worthy of its star status - thoroughly enjoyable from start to finish!!!

Blue68 17/Sep/12 2nd dog

Climbed as a 3, got in a mess with the ropes under the roof pitch, needed to loop the rope round me 3 times as I climbed, 3rd time I needed to grab a bit of gear while I got it round me. This is a fantastic climb well worth it's 3 stars

hotfeet 17/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
BelayBunney 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Wow! What a fantastic route! Loved it! Lead all pitches. P1 has a nice mixture of different techniques. P2 traverse is just fantastic - delicate and technical with amazing views to boot! Lead P3+P4 together. Definitely one of the most enjoyable climbs I have done to date! Worthy of its Top50 status!

Hidden 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball 25/Jul/12 Lead
with Solly Kemball Dorey
alastairbegley 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
peterbeaumont ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
tcn_2002 28/Jun/12 AltLd
ian d f 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch

with Tom C, Pete C
natalio 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

I did p1 and then linked together p3 and 4. Mumtaz did the traverse on p2. We agreed that p1 is the hardest. p1 is 4c in the guidebook and p2 5a, but we thought p1 was clearly harder that the traverse on p2. Amazing climb, by the way.

with Mumtaz
JamesBrowning 20/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Toby
arandall 11/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led all pitches except crux, brilliant traverse :)

Wendy Watthews 11/May/12 AltLd O/S

did p2 the treverse

rustaldo 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

great route! final half not as good as the first 2pitches

with John Salmon, Si
jpksalmon 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Matt led the first three pitches and I led final short pitch. The second traverse pitch was nails! Weather was dry and cool.

with Matt Rust
Chilidog ?/May/12 Lead
with Phill Matthews
Graham Westbrook 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Mr Powly 12/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Ian B
burto 12/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with tom powell
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd
Chris Sansum 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Geo P1, 3. Chris P2, 4.

with Geo
Slick 08/Apr/12 AltLd
mullermn 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Excellent route. 2nd half of p1 was the hard part for me - guidebook photo is a guy elegantly bridging up the corner, while I dived in to the chimney and proceeded to thrash and thrutch my way up like someone having an epileptc fit in a straight jacket. Must work on bridging. P2 is good fun. Committing move to get started then easy climbing to the end of the traverse before a dramatic move round the corner on good holds. Brought Kylie across to a hanging belay where I could see her do the traverse then lead the much easier ground to the top in one pitch.

Kylie 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Really nice, first pitch is a little awkward but nice once you've worked it out! roof was brilliant but burnt out shortly after.

markfromstoke 31/Mar/12 AltLd
with Pete H, Norman
Norman_P_W 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 13/Mar/12 Lead
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
mick1jones 16/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Rich Rogers
Hidden 12/Oct/11 AltLd
domskezz 21/Sep/11 Lead

Great route, large waves on the day, got a soaking by a particular biggie at the bottom of the climb so had to scramble up onto the 1st ledge to stay safe. Thought the first pitch was going to be a horrible thrutch up the crack but was able to avoid that tactic for the most part.

with Jamma
mat cooper 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 21/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

found pitch pitch one extremely hard near the top but still excellent, think I was still getting used to the granite. Led pitches 1,2 & 4

with Becky E
Becky E 21/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

led P3.

Hidden 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
inspiration_needed ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Lead easy third pitch - 4a

with Mat Cooper
Si ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Cheese Monkey 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Wet n horrible!

with Paul
gingerwolf 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Leads top two pitches. Bottom pitch has to be the crux at 5a, second pitch more like 4c!

Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
thomasaneurinsmith 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic! I lead first pitch (lots of fun thrutching) Stu lead second traverse - also excellent, I finished up to the top. All round good quality, pretty hard for the grade.

with Stuart Reeves
stuaart 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2, Tom led P1 and P3+P4 (ran together). Superb route (apart from chimney thrutch.

JamPlastick 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Master Chief 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Have been looking forward to this for a long time and i'm affraid it just didn't make the grade for me!!

Spearos 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
royal 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Led the first pitch, and the 3rd and 4th as one. 1st and 2nd pitch outstanding. 1st pitch the crux for sure. The 2nd pitch traverse felt quite easy whereas the first pitch was hairy but amazingly good, trying to get my trad lead head on whilst feeling tired after a week of climbing.

Hidden 02/Jun/11 2nd
Bob M 01/Jun/11 AltLd

I led pitch 1 up the chimney - a bit damp but well protected. A monster cam would have made it easier.

highfivekrissy 01/Jun/11 AltLd
Norman_P_W 01/Jun/11 AltLd
with Bob M
mrrjmcneil ?/Jun/11 Lead
with Jason Ivor
peter myers ?/Jun/11 -

best route i did at chair ladder. amazing. low in the grade hvs?? maybe not but super varied an interesting route... get on it!

Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Scotsken 20/May/11 -
DOVEY 16/May/11 AltLd

P1 wet but good

with Budd
cornishmackem ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
with zach lawlor
timreynolds 30/Apr/11 AltLd
with Chris Clayton-Jones
gcandlin 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led the roof pitch, great climbing

with terry lines
TerryLines 29/Apr/11 -
Barry D 28/Apr/11 Lead
with Trish
stevepotter 24/Apr/11 AltLd
with Bryan
hellboundblr 24/Apr/11 AltLd

Me P1 & P3. Steve P2 & P4.

with Steve P
sergio46 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed first pitch (4c? may be 5a)and third. Seconded 2nd pitch, brillant traverse, exposed, gears are excellent, well done Dan.

with Dan Whaley
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Such a good route, I just have to show it to everyone!

Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/Apr/11 AltLd

I led pitch 1 which was clearly as tricky as pitch 2 ! Overall a wonderful route.

Elaine Budden 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

my hardest lead so far.. truely amazing!!

El3ctroFuzz 20/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

I Did P1, Miss's took the roof pitch, no falls, lots of up and down climbing, a few tears, then FINALLY just manned up and did it! (I did tell her it was 4c tho!) I then linked P3&P4 with 3 bits of gears!

with Elaine Budden
mtempest 20/Apr/11 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
tompilgrem 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Great route, lead p2+4. Crux was p1 crack, vs 4c I would say. Never is there a 5a move on the traverse, just walk your feet along the foot ledge!

with Dad
bobpilgrem 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1-good commitited bridging needed for success.Tom lead P2- the traverse goes very easily once you have reached the roof and placed first bit of gear.

with Bob/Tom
jakenichol 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

If i could vote this as 4 stars i would. Go and do it.

Dave Heaton 18/Apr/11 AltLd

I led pitches 1 and 3, Jake led pitches 2 and 4.

Neil D 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Betha. 19/Mar/11 2nd dog

fell off trying to extract a sling

with Neil D
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Eike 05/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
paddymitton ??/2011 -
fletch73 ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
Nevil ??/2011 Lead
with Harvey
Bob Peters ??/2011 -
nickstephens 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

What a reward after waiting under a rock for an hour whilst the heavens opened!

1651SP 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with nick
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
monsteratt 12/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 and p3. Brilliant first and second pitches. Some very interesting and quite varied moves on the first pitch then a seemingly scary traverse that wasn't too bad in reality. Very exciting. Nice romp to the top after that!! Probably the best VS I've done!! Helped out by a nice setting sun. Another good end to the day.

Andrew Abraham 12/Oct/10 -
erinbastian 10/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
with andy
Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd
djking1983 29/Sep/10 AltLd
Rhys Jones 29/Sep/10 AltLd
El3ctroFuzz 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

I lead P1 and P2 in one pitch. Tom Lead P3 And P4 in one pitch. Definatley HVS!

with Tom Thorpe
andybenham 24/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. First two pitches are extremely good, second two pleasant though not particularly memorable. Led 1st and 3rd

Gareth 24/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th pitch

with Andrew
Hidden 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Rosie Hutchins 20/Sep/10 2nd O/S

SCARY!! not a VS to be taken lightly, although it was very wet, so that probably didnt help!

mikeburf 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rosie
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

a contender for the best VS in the country. superb

with chris todd
edpd1b 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Leo Scheltinga, Kelly Hillyer
crag_monster 30/Aug/10 Lead
crag_monster 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
adam cooper*super* 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

mike did 1st pitch, i did the traverse..scary!!!

with mike waller
Andre Clarke 29/Aug/10 AltLd

Fantastic climb with Physical, technical and exposed climbing. Top climb

Monkey_Alan 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1,2&4. Took ages on P1 before eventually getting up the way I'd tried first time. P2 had great climbing in a fantastic position - Huge exposure, but plenty of gear under the roof.

with Stella Moggs
Adrian Daniels 28/Aug/10 AltLd
with Steve Webster
bpmclimb 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 27/Aug/10 2nd
Will Hunt 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 4. Awesome route.

Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
jak.kelly 13/Aug/10 2nd rpt

Led pitch 3

Rowansb 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with dave
Dave Lacey 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tebs 29/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Spiffing. Hard for the grade, and pretty wet when we did it. The 1st pitch was traditional fare of the finest quality, involving copious bodily surface area contact with guano covered rock. 2nd pitch intimidating to lead and second and well worth VS 5a. Ran final 2 pitches together, steep and juggy. Excellent stuff.

with Tim
HimTiggins 29/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

with Bart
metal arms 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 & 2

joshen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Homes 26/Jun/10 AltLd
with Sam A
Hidden 25/Jun/10 AltLd
erinbastian 19/Jun/10 2nd

exposed but fun

with Ken Mayo
Spence22 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Mayo 19/Jun/10 -
with Erin Bastian
joese7en 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jun/10 -
jon_gill1 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

1st = me very hard pitch! 2nd = JWB 3rd = me 4th = JWB

JWB 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Me: Pitch 2 & 4 Jon: Pitch 1 & 3 The first pitch felt very hard for the grade, certainly harder and much more committing than the 2nd pitch. Mind the bird crap on the belay block. Poor Jon put his hand right in it! Second pitch was great but felt easier thsn the 1st.

Hidden 12/May/10 AltLd O/S
verticon ?/May/10 Lead O/S
dready 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

lead 3nd pitch

with dillwat
SurferStan 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2

Dilwat 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

lead P1, P4. Brilliant climb

Hidden 14/Apr/10 -
ollie1 10/Apr/10 AltLd
mattshort 05/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Alan100 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Got a bit wet at the start thanks to a bit of swell but this added to the committed feeling! I found the first pitch harder and more technical than the second. The high traverse using jams in the break felt about 4b not 5a! Would be much bolder and harder staying low on the traverse I guess. Not that it matters as the climbing and situation were excellent. Intimidating positions and clean balanced moves with good gear - what more can you ask?

GarethHall 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches one and three. Might come back to lead the fantastic traverse one day!

lyneux 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 1 and 3. Traverse easier than 5a. First pitch intimidating!

PanzerHanzler 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led P3

with Emma Hawkins, Martin Hore
garywong 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P4. The traverse is amazing. Intimidating, but good holds and great protection.

mrtom 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Did the big traverse. Awesome! :)

with Guy Molyneux
mark_jc ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
w.pettet-smith 14/Feb/10 Lead

fantastic route. tee-shirts in february. saw some seals.does it get any better? the traverse is better than the shield pitch on coronation street in my book.

with claire jane carter
clairejane 14/Feb/10 AltLd
with will
crobinson 30/Jan/10 AltLd

Amazing climbing, led 1st, and linked 3rd,4th pictches. Perfect sunny weather and the crag all to ourselves, what more could you want.

with Southern Man
Hidden 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
steveprice.exmouth ?/Jan/10 AltLd
with Emgrant
Hidden ?/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
brockers 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. Led the first 2 pitches. the traverse pitch is a stormer.

Hidden 25/Oct/09 AltLd
nickstephens 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Does it get more classic than this?

with Peter Jones
Ken Applegate 05/Sep/09 AltLd

The first pitch was a bit damp first thing in the morning, still, fantastic route, with a memorable traverse!

Hidden 18/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/09 AltLd
Sophie Nunn 08/Aug/09 AltLd
dpe 06/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
jak.kelly 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Lynnette Evans
Roger Cruse 08/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Kris & Buffy
Hidden 02/Jul/09 AltLd
Jon_Warner 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Really really good. Thought pitch 1 was by far the most intimidating!!

with Tom
Martin Bennett 29/Jun/09 -
with Ali
DanLear 27/Jun/09 AltLd
with Andy Pemberton, Al
ASchwirtz 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Excellent route

with Ian
Laurence Everitt 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead, Second, Lead, Lead

with Mark D
JCB42 10/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jack Brougham
Mark D 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Mike W ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with grant
paddymitton ?/Jun/09 -
MD 24/May/09 AltLd

Big cams are useful

with Misha
Misha 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Mike led P 2 and 4

Julian Prieto 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Neil Weymouth, Lesley Markie
steve prior ?/May/09 AltLd
with Pete R
Hidden 14/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
jchenoweth 14/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

I lead all but second pitch

with Charlie Jeynes
petegruf 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Giovanna
joehanks61 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 11/Apr/09 AltLd rpt

Led P2

with Clare & Joe
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
cem 11/Apr/09 AltLd rpt
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Hidden 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
RichardMc 26/Sep/08 Lead
with Tony Williams
mark4344 17/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, tough for grade. Excellent pro on 5a pitch.

with Nick Coles
Rob84 24/Aug/08 Lead
with Rich Patterson
thrutch 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S

thought the second pitchwas hard for 5a. Very wet though

with helen
sebrider ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Led Ps 2&4.

with Simon Denison
givemetea 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S

argh! bloody hard for a VS. The top of the first pitch steep (overhanging!) and intimidating - and it only gets 4c!

Hidden 01/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Tobias at Home 09/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 09/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Tobs
eugeneth 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Seb
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Dave Latimer ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/May/08 AltLd
gb83 09/May/08 AltLd O/S

pitches 2 and 4. traverse is not hard but great fun. pitch one is harder

with m.sakano
masa-alpin 09/May/08 AltLd O/S

I lead P1,3, and Graeme did P2,4. Superb. Our first climb in Chair Ladder.

Hidden 07/May/08 AltLd
OffshoreAndy 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and 3

with Skell
Julia Chatterton 22/Mar/08 2nd

Amid sun, snow, gale force winds and the tide threatening my belay ledge. The traverse is an amazing pitch though.

with Will
Hidden 27/Jan/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
cmsg 14/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Tom Gadsden 09/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

P1 Tom, P2 Mike, P3 & 4 Tom

with Mike
Hidden 05/Sep/07 Lead O/S
liz77 01/Sep/07 AltLd

I led P2

with HRC
BALD EAGLE 28/Aug/07 AltLd
with Mark Van Rossum
Steerpike 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Bruce
chris wyatt ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Yumee second pitch. Quite hard for VS

centurion05 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with chris thorne
eel ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
zcapxa5 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave Prady, Gab Morrison
JackMountains 05/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Did first and third pitches. Second pitch is epic - amazing. One of the best climbs I have ever done.

with Phil
phil stubbs 05/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

fully committing second pitch loved every minute

MikeT ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with MO
jon clayton ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with cherry
mooseloose 30/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Ian Gas Bennet
yuha 25/May/07 AltLd O/S

Lead the memorable traverse pitch.

with Bernard
Neil Adams 20/May/07 AltLd O/S

Very nice, with a lovely exposed traverse below the roof.

with Bez
Andrew1 13/Apr/07 AltLd
with Andy Lewington
Joe Marsh 10/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Andre
twodada 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S

high in grade on first and 2nd pitch. But what a 2nd pitch, absolutly the best climb og the week. Great position, great exposure.

with Rick E
Kirill 08/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch

with Ryan, Charles Moreton
cem 08/Apr/07 AltLd rpt

Led p1

featuresforfeet 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

"We won't need any big cams for this" :-(

with Clive M
riddle ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb, must lead pitch 2 next time!

with Ollie and Mike Stephenson
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Geoffers ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Oct/06 AltLd
akhughes ?/Sep/06 Lead
sgl 31/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Hidden 31/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
mooseloose 15/Aug/06 AltLd rpt

The most entertaining climb of my life. Led the 5a pitch (I want to lead the lot next time)

with Robo & Jaime
victim of mathematics 31/Jul/06 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 31/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

I took the first pitch. Took ages to find an important jug. Sea lapping the bottom of the route. Started drizzling as soon as I got under the roof. An impressive first 5a lead for Alex!

Hidden 31/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 21/Jul/06 Lead O/S

best/hardest vs in great britain. sweet route.

Mark Davies PK 21/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Laura
Kyuzo ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Hal Watts
hal ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with Virgil Scott
Hidden 28/May/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/06 Lead
Hidden 11/May/06 AltLd O/S
JPGR 30/Apr/06 2nd
with Paul
Jez 18/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/06 AltLd β
maybe_si ?/Apr/06 AltLd
with jez
Danos ?/Apr/06 AltLd
with Danjou
chrisallan ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 05/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Rob Scheicl
mikelaing ??/2006 -
ewen ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
jfmchivall ?/Sep/05 -
shoulders 12/Aug/05 Lead
with dai
Boxy 06/Aug/05 AltLd
with Aus
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead
Tom Vivian ?/Jul/05 AltLd
lost.arrow 01/May/05 -
John Kettle ??/2005 AltLd
topsyturvy ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S

done with robs mate/lad from canada. I got traverse pitch. Thought the first pitch was hardest.

johnboyrevel ?/Aug/04 Lead
with Faye
mikeyjbs 04/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with simon ball
lost.arrow 02/May/04 -
simon kimber ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Lucy Filce
Hidden 21/Dec/03 AltLd O/S
Macca_7 11/Oct/03 Lead O/S

Bloody hard move in the chimney I thought!

with Ann Fisher
bpmclimb 10/Aug/03 Lead O/S

My favourite climb

with Clare
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/03 Lead

If there's a 5a pitch on this route it's pitch 1. Pitch 2 is sensational but not more than 4c.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/03 AltLd
five ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Drmikew ?/Jun/03 Lead

Amazing traverse pitch

cem 19/Apr/03 AltLd O/S

Led p 2 & 4

with Liam Mark
Samuel P 06/Apr/03 2nd
with Luke
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Dan
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
RussB ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Howard + Jas, Alex H
Hidden ?/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
DerwentDiluted ?/Aug/02 AltLd
with Laurie Smith
Bob M 04/Jun/02 AltLd
Norman_P_W 04/Jun/02 AltLd
with Bob M
rockjedi12345 ?/May/02 Lead O/S
with Matt Bradley
Hidden 04/Aug/01 AltLd
Rob Davies ?/Aug/01 AltLd

Traverse out low down on P2 was tricky - well, it is 5a - and not well protected

Hidden 27/Jul/01 AltLd
pezzerrr 29/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
Paz ?/Jun/01 AltLd O/S

Didn't disappoint.

with CC
Hidden 20/May/01 AltLd
Allan Young 06/May/01 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Robinson
Different Steve ?/Apr/01 AltLd O/S

Led P2, P4

with Darren Lambert
IanGilbertJones 23/Feb/01 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/00 AltLd
Lepista 28/Aug/00 Lead O/S

With Gill

nickdonohue 01/Jul/00 AltLd
with Joe Brown
lost.arrow 25/Apr/00 -
with Paul Palfreyman
alex_th 22/Apr/00 AltLd O/S

Stephen lead first pitch to niche, I lead traverse out of niche.

with Stephen Lumb
MoWalker3 01/Jan/00 AltLd
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Bullybones ??/2000 -
brianrunner ??/2000 -
NickP ??/2000 -
VPJB ??/2000 -
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
lost.arrow 12/Aug/99 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Mickdenali ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with Tim Rushton
Hidden 05/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
WB 02/Apr/99 Solo O/S
hdog76 ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
plain kitten ?/Jul/98 Lead
iskra2000 25/May/98 AltLd

With Sharon Davies.

with Dave Wagg
Ashley Hold 22/May/98 Lead
with Laurence North
CrashMat Rob 03/May/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden 25/Apr/98 Lead
John Southworth ?/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
with Andy MacNae
Neil Ireson ??/1998 Lead
with John
andy_pemberton ??/1998 AltLd

+ also with Keith. + Dan and Al. 1st pitch is one of the best anywhere!

with Chris Clarke
stuart100 15/May/97 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Pete Nugent 30/Mar/97 -

Led p1,3&4. Tony Madden?

lost.arrow 29/Mar/97 AltLd
skygodley 28/Mar/97 Lead O/S

Sarah led pitches 1 and two

with SarahM
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 Lead
craig h 26/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Hidden 06/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
jim_randell 21/May/95 AltLd O/S
with FW
GAtkins 20/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with David Trelawney-Ross
GAtkins 20/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with David Trelawney-Ross
markpollak ??/1995 AltLd O/S


with roy thomas
John Andrew Simpson ??/1995 2nd O/S
with Ian Roberts
colin milton 02/Jul/94 AltLd
with eric milton
climbingrichard 01/Jul/94 Lead O/S
daprince ?/Jul/94 -
Hidden 18/Jun/94 Lead O/S
timreynolds 28/May/94 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/94 AltLd
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
mikelaing ??/1994 AltLd
with Phil Abram
jcw ??/1994 2nd
with Martin Harris
bobpilgrem ?/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 -
Hidden 23/May/92 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1992 -
whispering nic 30/Mar/91 2nd
with Ali W
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
John Roe ?/Aug/90 AltLd
with Nige Hughes
NickJH ?/Aug/90 2nd
with D Townsend
nigehughes ?/Aug/90 AltLd
with John Roe
biggianthead ?/Jun/90 -
with C
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/1990 -

Too easy for HVS. Too hard for VS.

Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
beaumap 21/Jul/89 AltLd
with Tim Waddington
Hidden 04/Apr/88 AltLd
Tony Buckley ?/Mar/88 AltLd
rob.grafton ?/Aug/86 Lead
with barry maybank
steve taylor ?/Apr/86 AltLd
with Simon Leigh-Smith
RichardMc 31/Mar/86 AltLd
with Steve Gould
Hidden 05/Apr/85 AltLd
Nigel Coe 27/May/84 AltLd
with Steve Portnoi
charlesmfrench 01/Sep/82 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
Nigel Bond 31/Jul/82 Lead
with Rodger Edenborough
Hidden 22/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
Nigel Coe 01/Jun/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
DDDD ??/1982 -
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
tapley 30/Sep/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Chris Terrey ?/Apr/80 Lead
with Jerry Purkis
Mike C 09/Mar/80 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Nevil ??/1980 Lead

Not sure of year

with Steve
Mike Owen 27/Jul/79 -
with Elaine Watson
Ian Jones ?/Sep/78 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton
Hidden 21/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/77 AltLd
babymoac 06/Jul/77 2nd
with SWH
kjacks ?/Jul/77 Lead

Peters out a bit after the difficult traverse but fine rock and position - found 2nd pitch precarious.

with Marian Birkett
Dave Musgrove 07/Jun/77 AltLd
Nigel Bond 16/Apr/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Gordon Stainforth 08/Apr/77 2nd
with Patrick Radford
Simon cook ?/May/76 -

With Andy Gallagher and many subsequent ascents

Falko 15/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with Alan Taylor, Chris Plant
Bolt Phobia 05/Apr/76 AltLd
with John Broadwell
Paul Clarke ??/1976 -
with Mike Lynch, FMC
Martin Bennett 05/Aug/70 -
with IW
tutbury ?/Aug/69 Lead O/S

A fine day for a memorable route.

with Fred Graham
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 106
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 101
Votes cast 97
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set