45m, 2 pitches. Named "The Boulder Way" when this route was claimed as the first to conquer the upper sections of the cliff in 1958, hence the naming of other routes (Bolder way, Scrub Way etc), it was then found to have been climbed 5 years earlier, and so lost the name! The Nurgler is now regarded as the classic of the crag, and completes the route originally attempted (see Gulls nest crack) in 1930.

1] 12m 4a
Gulls nest crack

2] 33m 4b
Mind the gap, and step onto the slabby wall under the overhang. Ascend to the roof, and traverse rightwards past two awkward hanging ribs to a groove/shallow chimney. Climb this for 6m then move left onto the slab. This time pass leftwards under the upper overhang to another groove and climb this to the top.

2a] 32m
As for p2 but move left from the chimney to an exposed traverse 3m along the lip of the roof. Climb up the exposed slab to join p2 at the second overhang.

R James, CT Jones (p2a - J Appleby, D Craig Jul 1996) 1953

Norman_P_W 07/Apr/17 AltLd
with Max S
Abi Chard 26/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Alison Cairns 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Good climbing - much shorter than guide description, top pitch is quite short. Abseil in place to avoid gorse bushwack but in mediocre condition - suggest take some spare rope to replace!

with Abi
Hidden 17/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 04/May/14 AltLd
with Bryn, Jayne
herman0055 19/May/13 AltLd O/S

Nice route, had rope drag and pulled some pro out, which was interesting.

with Karl Lester
baron84 04/May/13 2nd O/S

Bit of jungle at the top but appears to be being maintained. Full of good positive holds. Great climb.

with BramT
BTphonehome 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Baron
HJSmith 23/Sep/12 2nd

Disappointing rock quality considering described as the "Classic of the crag". Quite vegetated - very prickly descent!

with Clint Rivet, Paul Wood
Hidden 23/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Tim Sparrow 13/Apr/12 AltLd
with Geoff Thomas
xusa 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
gareth scott borthwick 25/Apr/11 Lead
with Maria
Gerallt Owain 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
stevechaps1 29/Mar/11 2nd
Rob Evans ??/2011 -

1st pitch and start of second fun but then the jungle sets in

Hidden 09/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
taw ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, shame about the 1st, but maybe better when not damp

with Dave sb
davesb ?/Aug/09 AltLd
a_d_tru 14/Jun/09 Lead
with Sarah C
csalvage 15/May/08 AltLd
with Bryan
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead
Ratfeeder 20/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

led pitch 1

with Phil
Norman_P_W 15/Aug/04 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 15/Aug/04 AltLd

Got lost and took a more direct finish

duncana 25/Aug/03 2nd

Interesting belay sitting on huge free boulder, with feet on wall.

with Pippa Archer
wynaptomos ?/Sep/83 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/74 Lead
kjacks 01/Dec/72 Lead
with Ken Lax
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