Rockfax Description
III, 800m, 5 - 6 hours. A route which varies greatly depending on conditions but always has crevasse risk and usually involves serac danger - good route finding and the ability to move quickly through dangerous sections are essential. The face is climbed by starting on the left, 100m right from the foot of the Triangle du Tacul.
1) Climb up 35 degree snow and cross a large crevasse, which varies in size and difficulty over the course of the year.
2) Depending on serac threat, either carry on straight up and move left once level with the end of the Chéré Couloir's technical pitches or drift gradually right to cross the face and gain the Tacul's northwest shoulder.
3) Having reached the shoulder, follow it up low-angled snow slopes and scramble easily up the summit rocks.
Descent - Reverse the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Normal route up the Tacul and the first bit of up-hill on the 3-Monts route up Mont Blanc. Be mindful of the seracs that guard the face and cause numerous accidents. The area is also prone to wind loading leading to big avalanches and too many fatalities! Some very large crevasses are also present.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Hidden 01/Jun -
jamesb101 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/16 -
Pero 29/Aug/16 -
Bryan M 29/Aug/16 -

4hrs from Cosmiques hut to summit and down to Vallee Blanche. Favorable conditions rendered route 'Facile'.

with Pero
Wendy Watthews 24/Aug/16 -

In decent

with JakeB.
JakeB. 24/Aug/16 -

In descent

Petarghh 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
c357 14/Aug/16 Lead

Used as descent route

Sam Maher ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Rob Davis
Hidden 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

In descent.

David Kay 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

In descent.

with Matt Box, Alex Shipp
Lumbering Oaf 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Descent route from summit.

with David Kay, Alex Shipp
Jules Lane 28/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Final day on my alpine trip. Impressive scenery and a great summit. My first and most likely only 4000er. 5 hours from midi and back. I found it physically very tough, being mostly type 2 fun. Thanks to Paul for his focus on safety.

with Mynydd Paul Justin
maumau 10/Jul/16 -
Iggy_B 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S

With Anna.

ijsbeer 05/Jul/16 -
jhobbs 04/Jul/16 -

My first 4000'er. In good nick and had summit to ourselves. Got first lift up to the midi, round trip back to midi 5.5hrs. It was slow going back up to the midi off the vallee blanche!

with Mark Haward
alooker ?/Jul/16 AltLd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
mjw ??/2016 Lead
with DColes
AndyT1151 06/Sep/15 -
ADAMSTUBS ?/Sep/15 2nd
steve_gibbs 18/Aug/15 Solo rpt
zcsharp 18/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

Bad conditions and less than usual made this dangerous to do.

Hidden 06/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/15 -
sivy100 30/Jul/15 -
olekemi 04/Jul/15 Solo O/S
with Ken B, Martin F
Hidden ?/Jul/15 -
Mr Spoons 30/Jun/15 2nd

Didn't summit, too busy. Stopped at col just below. FAR TOO HOT! Snow not in good condition

with Vangelis Stavroulakis
Hidden 26/Jun/15 Solo O/S
sammo247 23/Jun/15 2nd
chiverstom 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
ambrooker 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Sam Keyne, Tom
K Mckay ??/2015 -
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
easers 02/Nov/14 -

From the Jager to the summit of Tacul and descended the NW face

with Doug
Rustyclimb 15/Oct/14 -
davkeo 15/Sep/14 Solo O/S

In descent after Contamine-Grisole.

lanky and weak 08/Sep/14 -
with Jason King
Webster ?/Sep/14 Solo

in descent after climbing chere couloir and summiting. practically ran down to make the last bin down.

greenclimb 08/Aug/14 AltLd
with Sarah
Hidden 08/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/14 Solo rpt
JackM92 ?/Aug/14 -
Sam Ash 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Retro Rowan 21/Jun/14 Lead
Nick_Merriman 21/Jun/14 -
Tim Harper 21/Jun/14 -
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Dougbart ??/2014 -
with Iain
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 24/Sep/13 Solo
joe.91 24/Sep/13 Solo O/S

In descent.

Hidden 17/Aug/13 Solo
greenclimb 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Sarah
mickd 11/Aug/13 -
euanryan 11/Aug/13 -
with Willis
Hidden 01/Aug/13 -
ClimbingGlen 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
John Procter ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Henry's first 4000m peak.

Adamski1986 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Stewart Webb, kerry
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd
Alpenglow 07/Jul/13 AltLd
with Peter, Tom L, Owen
laurence_falconer 06/Jul/13 -
steve_gibbs 02/Jul/13 Solo O/S
with Al Docherty
WillRich ?/Jul/13 -
thomaspomfrett 26/Jun/13 Solo

In descent

with Neil (Conville/Alps)
Hidden 23/Jun/13 -
Avinash Aujayeb 01/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/13 Solo rpt
Kris ?/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden ??/2013 -
freeheel47 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
adamwesthead 20/Oct/12 AltLd dnf
with Dad
JKBowers 12/Aug/12 AltLd

In decent

with Ben Bennet
Gareth T 02/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
Harry Thorpe 10/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
thetradlad 10/Jul/12 Solo rpt

After deciding the seracs and approach to Chr Couloir wasn't great. Some nice ice on upper section :)

Hidden 10/Jul/12 2nd
Katherine Ross 09/Jul/12 2nd O/S

After bailing off the 3 Monts. Trying to descend the last scrambly bit at the same time as many guided groups were being dragged up was pretty ridiculous.

Hidden 08/Jul/12 AltLd
gravity 07/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Reached plateau and were within 400m of summit, but fierce winds, cold temps and altitude sickness (Manik) caused us to retreat.

with Ian Lau, Manik
Nigel Bond 04/Jul/12 Solo
with Bern Hardman
Martin Rowe 02/Jul/12 Lead rpt
WillRich ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden 28/Jun/12 -
Wils 28/Jun/12 -
jon_ridley 24/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/12 -
becoming-stranger 24/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Emily Cropton 24/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/12 2nd
Prez 22/Jun/12 -
Hidden 02/Jun/12 -
Whitty2012 02/Jun/12 -
with Peter Heath, Ian Whitfield
Laramadness ??/2012 -
Sam Simpson 30/Aug/11 -
Hidden 03/Aug/11 -
Hidden 03/Aug/11 -
Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
android_lloyd ?/Aug/11 -
sj87 08/Jul/11 -
tc7118 04/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Marky Mark ?/Jul/11 -

4000m acclimatisation peak in preparation for 3 monts route. Beautiful conditions, no problem with crevasses which had nice bridges accross. Set off from cosmiques hut @ 8am (late start) and were back at the midi by 12:30pm. The summit rocks were busy and again provided a sting int he tail to make the route more worthwhile. Weather crapped out the next day so headed to italy and Gran Paradiso instead of MB.

thetradlad ?/Jul/11 -
with Alice Manwaring, Philip Pavey, James Brewer
industrialiceman 26/Jun/11 -
tomtom89 25/Jun/11 -
with Jack
jac00 25/Jun/11 -
with Tom
Climbslikeaduck ?/Jun/11 -
with Vladimir Zholobenko, Alek Zholobenko, Nial Browne
Hidden ??/2011 -
scottie390 ??/2011 -
Hidden 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/10 -
Hidden 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Matt Bennett 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

4.5hrs return to midi, loadsa snow, cutting trail

with Lewis Grey
Karl Wooffindin 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Probably not PD. no option for F though. Full of Nigel & Jeremy's.

with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
CWMulcahy 01/Aug/10 -

From Cosmiques hut.

BigHell 01/Aug/10 Solo

Started early in the cold shadow of Tacul descended in the heat of the day , very very quickly.

QuentinSu ?/Aug/10 Solo
Ly-Cilph 18/Jul/10 AltLd dnf

Aborted as Clare got a little scared by the seracs...

with Clare A
baldie_chick 18/Jul/10 AltLd dnf
with kidB
groovy_nut 12/Jul/10 -
with Patrick
GiveHerHelen 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jonny M 12/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 -
jonesieboy ?/Jul/10 -
DigitalSteak ?/Jul/10 -
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/10 -
with Emily
Lancer ?/Jul/10 -
nicjbuk 24/Jun/10 Lead
with mr bill butterworth
Hidden 22/Jun/10 -
benny_m 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Ben Briggs ?/Jun/10 Solo

Climbed the route to ski the Gervasutti couloir but had to ski back down the way we went up due to bad weather.

with Brendan
Hidden ??/2010 -
keith leonard ??/2010 -
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Ross L 08/Sep/09 2nd
with Ian, Jon Bracey
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
KatieG 02/Sep/09 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Sam-westcott ?/Sep/09 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead β
Jillybean 31/Aug/09 -
with Simon Marshall
Hidden 05/Aug/09 -
Tom Livingstone ?/Aug/09 -
Sam-westcott ?/Aug/09 -
munki1971 05/Jul/09 -
Hidden 29/Jun/09 -
BenJacobs 29/Jun/09 -

in descent

with Steve and Ollie
JamesRoddie ??/2009 -
with Alex Roddie
milkyjoe 28/Sep/08 -

wanted to do a paraglide descent, but ended up having to fly down from the midi. still spectacular though!

with tom
Hidden 27/Aug/08 Lead
Zoomer 21/Aug/08 Lead

2 days before big avalanche!Steady plod with a nice mixed finish. Unfortunatly met the biggest cock of a french guide on the descent who played up to all the stereotypes and nearly put us in mischief. His english clients whispered that 'he wasn't a nice man' as we passed them, ha, money well spent!

Jules 210681 21/Aug/08 2nd
DannyMac 21/Aug/08 2nd
Neil Mackenzie 10/Aug/08 -

descent through some cool territory

with Andy
andymoin 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Descent after chere col, Loads of interesting snow bridges over bergscrunds and huge seracs, a nice we walk. Must be a trudge and a half going up!

Hidden 10/Aug/08 AltLd
aged_ape 08/Aug/08 -
with MB
Tom Livingstone ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 30/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Only a hill 24/Jul/08 -

Well within guidebook time. A cracking mountain but the route was a little monotonous!

with James Roddie
Hidden 15/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
robertporter ?/Jul/08 -
jimbobimbo ?/Jul/08 AltLd
with Mel
david0811 30/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Joined the route after climbing Chere Couloir.

with Mark Reid
markfairbank 30/Jun/08 Solo

Moved roped together the whole way, just a snow plod really for acclimatisation purposes, but still my first 4000er with a great view from the summit.

with SteveyM
SteveMyatt 30/Jun/08 Solo O/S

Great view from the top, plently of inspiration. Had to summit to ourselves- nice touch for my first 4000er.

with Mark Fairbank
Hidden 18/Jun/08 -
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Griff87 ??/2008 -

Git Avalanched by collapsing cerac had to initiate rescue for climber below us who was struck by ice boulder

with Chris Sawdon
Hidden 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/07 Lead
matty g 01/Aug/07 AltLd
dj_brigham05 ?/Aug/07 -
rob k ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with C Amis
Hidden 29/Jun/07 2nd
bugmonkey 02/Jun/07 -
Wanderer100 ?/Jun/07 -
cheekyboy ??/2007 Lead
with Dave Stead
dror ??/2007 -

not good for first acclamatization unless you turn around well before summit.

Jim Brooke ?/Aug/06 -
with Juan
kevburr 28/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Eric du Camp
Hidden 24/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/06 -
Chris Davids 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Russell Lovett 09/Jul/06 AltLd
with andrew haigh
Tom Stoddart 01/Jul/06 -
with Tom Slade
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
Epic Ebdon ?/Jul/06 -

Awesome! Easy, but fun, cracking views.

with Jon Rogerson, Stuard Heald
tommytuffa ?/Jul/06 -
with ollie b
djking1983 30/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/06 -
Hidden 30/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Brian Birtle 27/Jun/06 -

Solo without the skis

with Moi-meme
Stuie 23/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Jon Rogerson & Tim Ebdon
Joubert ?/Jun/06 -
Brian Birtle ?/May/06 -
with Patagonian Thomas and Tom
Brian Birtle ?/Apr/06 -

On ski. Nice powder day!

with German Thomas
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Solo
mathquirk 22/Sep/05 -
with Babu Blatt
swiss ?/Sep/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Stefan ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S

More of a snow plod than a climb really, but 'had to be done' on the way to the summit of Mt Blanc.

with Pete Jenkins
Hidden ?/Aug/05 -
Hidden 28/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
mmalbon ?/Jul/05 -

My first 4000 meter sumit. Relatively easy as you get 6am Midi cable car to 3800 meters then walk via the gate to narrow snow/ice ridge to the Vallee Blanche at about 3500 meters (I think). From here you thread your way through the massive crevaces on the north west face to the long ridge on the skyline. Then continue for what seems like forever along the top of this to scramble up the the little rocky pyramid that makes up the sumit. A few days after we did this a number of Royal Marines were killed in an avalanche on the same route - a stark reminder of the dangers of alpinism.

with Mick
jimorothy ?/Jul/05 AltLd

Zipped up this telling Rachel how, round by round, England would go about winning the World Cup in 2006... ah well.

with Rachel Crolla
Somerset swede basher ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Masa Sakano
chrissloan84 ?/Jul/05 -

More of a roped up walk than a climb

with Sim
fizzy_elephant ?/Jun/05 -
with Rob Williams
Stuart Johnston ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S

In winter with snow shoes before I knew how dangerous this face could be!

with Lara Kuehl
clams ??/2005 -

Left too early and got to summit before dawn

with AD, Liam
Ewan Russell ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S

Suffered altitude sickness, which felt quite severe at the time.

with Mike(Dad)
Will Gordon ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Irish bloke
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Alpandy ?/Jul/04 -
Hidden ?/Jul/04 -
Will Homoky 26/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

4-5 hrs from hut. Good conditions.

with Ned Atkins
LardClimber ?/Jun/04 -
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
tom_holdsworth 20/Sep/03 -
with Will Taylor
Hidden 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
edek_w ?/Jul/03 -
Phill_ Thompson ?/Jul/03 -
with Mike Lea, Lucy Prins
abbeywall ?/Jul/03 -
with K
Hidden 30/Jun/03 -
easers 14/Jun/03 AltLd
with Doug Aitken
Smelly Fox 20/Apr/03 Lead dnf
with Rosie, Al reaney, Rob Clifton
Dave Bond ?/Sep/02 -
with john leyland
markshaf 02/Aug/02 Lead
with Gareth Hartwell
MJH ?/Aug/02 -
with Keith D
mikehenesy ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Rob Beadnel
Andy Clarke 29/Jul/02 Lead

So well acclimatised were able to jog up and made summit in about 1hr 40.

with JamesW
stuartm555 19/Jul/02 AltLd

with Douglas Cowan
Ander 10/Jul/02 Solo
with Kev
Hidden ?/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/02 AltLd
Ian Roberts ?/Jun/02 -
barrington1978 ?/Aug/01 -
Bob M ?/Jul/01 -
with Richard Mott, Jill Stevens
Tim W ??/2001 -
nickdonohue 03/Sep/00 -

In descent

with Mark McCarthy
paul birch ?/Jul/00 -
andrewbooth1000 30/Aug/99 Solo
rlrs ?/Aug/99 AltLd
Antony Mariani ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
ajoliver ?/Jun/99 -
with Jonathan Russell
Hidden 10/Aug/98 -
Tarquin ??/1998 -
surfdad ??/1998 -
Richard Alderton ??/1998 -
Bilbo 05/Aug/97 -
with Steve
tomkhoward ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Nick (SICMC)
Colin Edwards ?/Jul/96 -
with Miles Goff, Malcolm Flatt, Clive Osbourne
Hidden ??/1996 Solo O/S
stokesrees ??/1996 Solo
auld al ?/Jul/95 Solo O/S
John Andrew Simpson ?/Mar/95 AltLd O/S
with Jim O Kane
Hidden 10/Jun/94 Solo
brady 30/Jul/93 AltLd
with Mark Duffield
Hidden 27/Jul/93 -
Hidden 27/Jul/93 -
Hidden 27/Jul/92 -
Hidden ??/1992 -
Hidden ?/Sep/90 Solo
Ratfeeder ?/Aug/90 Solo O/S
with Nick, Nige M
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/90 Lead

Done as part of 3M's route up Mont Blanc.

with Luc Percival
Hidden ?/Jul/90 -
crossleysm ??/1990 -

In descent

mark-abz ?/Aug/88 Solo

Descent after Gervasuti Pillar

mark-abz ?/Aug/88 Solo

In descent

with Andy W
freeheel47 ?/Jul/87 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
jmr 15/Jul/77 AltLd

Nice day long ago. My first 4000er. Easy climbing, but loose snow slopes - recognised these days as quite dangerous, hence PD+. We found a nice little alternative finishing gully with considerable exposure. Memorable but for the wrong reason. Got sick on descent. A psycho, (you, the police and I know who you are) had 'spiked' my water bottle with some yellow-brown oily stuff. If you (psycho) ever read this then stay away from me and climbing. Such people exist even among climbers it seems. Didn't realise what had happened at the time, but found out later in life. Bob had to push me back up the arete to the A. du Midi for the last cable car down. Also on a bit of dark note, there had been a recent plane crash on the final ridge with debris: aircraft tail still sticking out of the snow! Wow. What a day!

with Bob Howard
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
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Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
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