Rockfax Description
The right-hand line with two pairs of strange pockets that provide both holds and awkward-to-thread runners. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Veale 1980

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

dewiturton 15/Oct/17 Lead
with keitht
keitht 15/Oct/17 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/17 TR dnf
Mark Duncan 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Repeated so Pete could second.

with Pete
Mark Duncan 21/Aug/17 Lead

Varied climbing. Hard start, which took a couple of goes and the sloppy ledge was worrying, but fine once found the holds. Not sure how anyone can thread the second pocket, I had carry on to the top, risking a possible (definite according to partner) groundfall.

with Morello
robgixer 29/Jul/17 2nd rpt
ColinD 07/Jul/17 Lead
with Henry
HenryMeier 07/Jul/17 2nd β
with ColinD
DanChad 30/Apr/17 2nd dog

Disappointed that I came off on my first attempt on the crux. Got it the second time with a bit more gusto.

with Paul Deane
kermit_uk 30/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Stroppy 01/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Seems very height/reach dependant

Hidden 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Sam McCarthy 31/Mar/17 2nd
Mowglee 25/Mar/17 Lead dnf

Couldn't reach between the pockets regardless of where my feet were, even crimping the top edge of the lower one. Very height dependant and not 5c for shorties! Escaped off to the side without loading owt so OS still there for when I've grown...

with Ali
leonwilson 18/Feb/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/16 2nd dnf
Hidden 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hillson 09/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Deezel65 03/Aug/16 2nd RP
MrFantastic 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/16 2nd
g1m147 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Mick.
Ben Harper 29/May/16 Lead rpt
with Mads
Flavio 07/May/16 Solo O/S
adi bryant 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
sopaz 12/Mar/16 2nd
with Rob, Mackie
admackie 12/Mar/16 Lead
dr_botnik 12/Mar/16 Lead

Got mackie to throw me up his bouldering pad to put on the ledge. Ethics?

with Mackie, Paul Renwick
amccann 17/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Nina
ninastirrup 17/Oct/15 Lead
JEP 07/Jun/15 2nd
Matthew Ferrier 24/Apr/15 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 24/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 19/Apr/15 TR dog
with Ben S
Hidden 18/Jan/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Jan/15 Lead
JasonK ??/2015 Lead
drobin ??/2015 Lead
Olli-C 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Waddle
Matt Harmon 03/Oct/14 Lead dnf

couldn't quite make the span- managed to get the second pocket once with a desperate attempt but ended up back on the ledge

Bernie L 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

First E1 very bouldery

amccann 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Tom A
Teappleby 03/Oct/14 2nd

still well hard if you can't span.

Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead
Teappleby 03/Aug/14 Lead

very long! if you can reach I'm sure it's fine but it was a committing move when you're short.

WillDoyle 17/May/14 Solo
giuly 14/May/14 2nd dog


with Ben Abell, Neil Shephard
Hidden 14/May/14 2nd O/S
Wil Treasure 05/May/14 Lead
bede.west 04/May/14 2nd O/S

odd one to grade. did it as the leader went up the hvs. gears good but you would hit the slab which is scary but safe unless you fell off the top. no way E1 for shorties

Lazytraveller 19/Apr/14 Lead G/U

Fell at bouldery start, did the rest clean. Then seconded it clean after Ric.

RichyBOYY 19/Apr/14 Lead β

on jords gear

alooker 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great little route. Take thin slings for the threads... At least top end 5b if not 5c

bencole ?/Apr/14 Lead rpt
kabutsu 11/Jan/14 2nd
with BRoe
MarkRoe 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
BRoe 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Niels, Heather O, whitehouse_rhys, Rob L, Mark Roe
DanOsb 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

rescued lynsey with my tallness. dogged still. pencil tick.

with lyns
stemill 28/Sep/13 2nd dnf

Finished up HVS next door. Ridiculously technical move for shorties is probably just a big reach for lanks.

with Mark, Graham
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead
john_ni 22/Sep/13 2nd
Jim Slater 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Gudge 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

2 pockets as only holds & runners - weird but awesome! Found crux very reachy - 5c? Didn't bother trying to faff around threading top pocket and just went for top.

with Helen B
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
climberchristy 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Finally led it clean. Still really hard for the short and really hard to thread the final pocket without stuffing it up as a handhold. At least 5c.

with bencole
RM199 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/13 2nd
Hillson 17/Feb/13 2nd
with Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson
PeteWilson 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Matt, Andrew Graham
dominic lee 18/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Humm1985 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Oct/12 2nd
ColinD 14/Oct/12 Lead dog

Faffed for ages on second pocket threading cord, slipped out just as I threaded it through. I should of used smaller tat and key to hook... got back on and finished it fine, grrr.

Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
freemanTom 23/Sep/12 2nd

6a to link the pockets for the short I reckon, fun route.

with Kyle Rance
georgedunton 16/Sep/12 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 04/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Bit of a tricky move for the short, short-lived, but enjoyable

with Jen Maxfield
Jake Young 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jem
Bry 03/Sep/12 2nd
harold walmsley 28/Aug/12 TR rpt
with Colin Struthers
Nick1812P 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Pete
pete1993 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Nick
Andy Hardy 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 15/Jul/12 2nd dnf

Took a rest trying to get up the first bit, and then couldn't find a good way of reaching between the pockets and doing the top.

will_benfold 15/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Could not find a way up the upper half; finished up Greydon Boddington instead.

with Cameron
Ed morris 19/Jun/12 2nd

One fall messing up the crux.

Andy Peak 1 19/Jun/12 2nd
Haydn Jones 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
snomonkee 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
jonleighton 12/May/12 Lead dog

Very bouldery. Also run out at the end unless you want to hang around and place gear in the second pocket.

Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Woodiee 05/May/12 2nd O/S

one for those with baboon arms ! glad i was seconding this one - foot slipped at the crux but held it on the pocket - then found an intermediate crimp, pretty cool route !!

Oliver Houston 05/May/12 2nd
kenneM ?/May/12 Lead
elCapitano ?/May/12 2nd
with kenneM
Gambit 23/Mar/12 2nd
with Barney
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
mark20 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
elCapitano 19/Nov/11 2nd rpt
with Kenny
Richard P Coates 06/Nov/11 2nd dnf
elCapitano 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
Hidden 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
The Big Sender 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S

a wee bouldery bastard

tradguy 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

thought the reachy direct start was the crux (5c). reach to get the 2nd pocket wasn't to hard if you move your feet up (lay-backing/smearing)! My threaded nut in the 2nd was hard to place and took up half the hold. Not as good as i expected it. One to do again to see if it is better 2nd time round??

with Gavin Singleton, Matt Fennelow
max_chan 30/Jun/11 2nd
pmurdy 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Jonny Reay
JRae 11/Jun/11 Lead

Fun little route. Felt like the top thread might blow with a fall though.

with Paul M
Hidden 10/May/11 2nd rpt
AMarchant 10/May/11 Lead O/S

Cracking route

ajc 24/Apr/11 TR RP
Jonathan Hall 17/Apr/11 2nd

Bloody reach!

9fingerjon 17/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with James H
disturbed_one51 17/Apr/11 Lead
with Wee man
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Peakology 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Lovely ledge to look at the next bit. Managed to shout 'TAKE' and nearly come off when I didn't even have a first piece in. Gave Cat a moment of confusion as to what she was supposed to do..

with cat
Chalky Cat 21/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Lovely route on second - a tentative reach and smear for the top pocket and topout which was fine on a rope.

with Dom
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd β
Cake 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jon, Matt
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead dnf
9fingerjon 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Owen, Matt G
Tim_C7 ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S

My first E1, bit of a cheat given im 6'3" and able to reach between the holds.

with Kevin Kilroy
kingholmesy ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Andy S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd dog
Flash29 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd β
Dave Foster 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Si's first E1.

with Si
ojp 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

First E1. Bottom bit took a while to work out. Decided to press on without the 2nd thread for a nice run out. Good moves quite tough! enjoyed it

with Dave
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
DKaye 12/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Got up the start easily, got the thread, then for the life of me could not reach the pocket by mantling. Boo. Finished up the HVS to the left. Tall second reached from a ledge a foot below where I was stood.

with Duncan MacNeil
will smith11 30/Aug/10 Lead

First E1. Thought it was Soft but dont have much to compare to.

with Twisty
Twisty 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Daniel Wicks 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
sce8 01/Aug/10 TR
with John Sergeant
uphillnow 02/Jul/10 -
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 30/May/10 2nd O/S

Good stuff.

with Todd, Tom, Ivan
g_quaglia 23/Apr/10 Lead dnf

made just past 2nd pocket but ended up eating slab. nice long walk back to car with ruptured tendons in ankle. good times

highrepute 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/10 Lead β
GrahamPlant 11/Mar/10 Lead
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
BeccaSnowden 31/Oct/09 2nd dog

Long reach is compulsory

with Tom
thomasadixon 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Tough move to get the second pocket, definately at least 5c (although a long span would probably make it 5a!).

Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead rpt
mic_b 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tom.e 14/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 16/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
minaturechris 08/Aug/09 2nd dnf

Could not reach the pockets and never likely to until I can pull up on pebbles. Not one for the short! Finished on Greydon Boddington (HVS 5B) to the left.

with Barra
metal arms 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/09 2nd O/S
chris sm 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 08/Jun/08 Solo O/S

Felt a little committing to solo, would've probably felt better if it wasn't 25 degrees at the time too.

The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Twisty 15/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Black ice on the top out- perfect friction.

with Phil Baxter
dicky79 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Pete
towdman 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Adam Armitage
Brown 18/Apr/07 Solo O/S
with John
chiverstom 21/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Katherine
cia05js 18/Feb/07 2nd
with David Moir
Ben Harper 18/Feb/07 Lead
dmoir 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with James Sexton
dannyboy83 18/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Dec/06 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Dec/06 Lead
alaan 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Definately 5c- very reachy but a lovely move for one of my stature. Threading the top pocket was a little fiddly...

A Crook 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S

5c for me. Massive rock up on an insipid little edge, thread runners where fun.

with Duncan Hassell
Ben1983 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
maybe_si 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with danger john
jchenoweth 15/Jul/06 2nd dog
Nicos 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2006 -
petellis ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/05 2nd dog
Rob Davies 26/Jun/05 Lead dnf

Couldn't stretch far enough

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 05/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 31/May/05 2nd
Shad ?/May/05 2nd
Alex Mason ?/May/05 Lead O/S

sling in the lower pockets. i think this sould get e2 6a i did a cut looe move with just a toe hook to get the other pockets after much deliberation powerful and then the top out was not so easy

with christov ramsden
Hidden 02/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S

tried to solo this. didn't facy it so got rope chucked up to ledge

with Chris Ramsden
mikeski ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
cem 15/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Daniel Armitage 25/Oct/03 Lead O/S

In the rain.

Mark Stevenson 30/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Palfreyman
Hidden ?/Mar/02 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 18/Mar/00 Lead rpt
with jon
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 23/Mar/95 Lead
with Martin Veale
Neil McA 19/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Martin Wilson, Beak 2
Hidden 24/Aug/80 2nd
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 58
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set