Rockfax Description
The leaning crack has a useful pocket and is well named.
A technical gem where forward planning will help. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

foobar123 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Technically my hardest lead yet! Went up with a left hand in the pocket first to get the gear in (Alien on the left was brilliant) then went back down to the rest. Crux move is definitely crossing hands to get the right in the pocket, but I nearly fell getting my feet up once I'd got my hands in the crack above.

with Sophie Miocevich
Alkis 15/Oct/17 Lead dog

Repeated it for Leona to have a go. The top was "moist". Hand slipped out of the jam.

with Leona
DubyaJamesDubya 15/Oct/17 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
climberchristy 22/Aug/17 2nd rpt

Chuffed for Lynn that she led this: her first 5c lead. Applauded by family of Japanes tourists who thought we were professional climbers. If only!

with LMS
LMS 22/Aug/17 Lead G/U

third ground up try.. took a cam out to get a better hand hold. really hard move getting hands in the right order!! super chuffed to get it done, the hardest lead I've managed yet

Hidden 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 20/Aug/17 Lead dog
Adam Long 13/Aug/17 Solo

2x, started from right then left.

with Ben Bransby
Amy121 06/Aug/17 2nd
quickdrawmcraw 06/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 17/Jul/17 2nd
Alkis 17/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Gordon Weight, Alasdair Dickinson, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 17/Jul/17 Lead β

Lead on Gordons gear, start felt surprisingly hard but the rest was ok

with Gordon Weight, Alkis Tsapanidis, Alasdair Dickinson
Gordon W 16/Jul/17 Lead RP

failed at it a couple of years ago. Felt relatively easy going 'wrong' handed and just pulling through it

with Alkis
Compo 22/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Got clean but did before, around 2011.

with Gareth
ambrooker 24/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Emma L-D, Mark, Tom
chiverstom 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Alice
tebs 11/Sep/16 Lead dog
with Adam, Tim
HimTiggins 11/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Bart
Pete_Mosely 13/Aug/16 2nd dnf
MrFantastic 10/Aug/16 Lead G/U
Alex Handley 10/Aug/16 Lead β

With pre placed gear. Great route

Felix la shat 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead
Francis Hardy 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

First E1 lead. Felt a bit brutal but beautifully protected up to the pocket, didn't try to stop and put in any gear after that. The starting move felt the most technical and then moving my left hand from the pocket to the undercut so I could get my right in the pocket felt very delicate.

Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd dog
Ben Grounsell 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Oli Grounsell
sopaz 12/Mar/16 2nd
Palmer 12/Mar/16 2nd
admackie 12/Mar/16 Lead

good stuff

Palmer 12/Mar/16 2nd
arrang 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
griffithpatrick 17/Oct/15 Lead dnf

Fell off near the top. Thank god that hastily placed cam held me

griffithpatrick 17/Oct/15 2nd rpt

Dom led. It was ok second time.

climberchristy 17/Oct/15 Lead rpt

Climbed in dampish conditions as a bit of a warm up for harder routes later. Great little route.

with bencole
James Oswald 17/Oct/15 Sent

Great to do this again

dom94 17/Oct/15 Lead β

Paddy fell of then I led it mostly on his gear, adding a few pieces of my own, nice route!

with Paddy
Wood for Trees 17/Oct/15 Sent O/S
Duncan Campbell 17/Oct/15 Sent β

Brilliant little route and well worth highballing. That pocket is just made to hold!

with The Wald, Dan Middleton, Will P-S, GuyVG
ralphio 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Delightful moves.

with Marcin
chrismadar 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Not sure if I can claim the onsight but there doesn't appear to be an option for 'Craig gave up half way so somebody needed to get the gear'. A really nice technical route with some pretty cool moves up to the pocket if you go with the right hand!

ned_85 13/Sep/15 -
with Mike, Ryan Baird
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead β
Rosie Henstock 11/Jul/15 2nd dog

Rope got stuck behind a cam in the upper crack. Took some careful nut key work to get it out!

TGreen 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey 27/Jun/15 Lead β
ipegg 21/Jun/15 2nd
Katsmiff 21/Jun/15 Lead dog

Really nice climb, shame I didn't have enough strength so fell off. Very doable.

Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Jun/15 TR dog
RM199 10/Jun/15 Lead dog

1 rest

Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead G/U
Jmpollard 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
dan gibson 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Olga
Hidden 26/May/15 Lead
ChrisVickers 26/May/15 2nd O/S
ChrisBrooke 10/May/15 Lead dog

One rest before pulling through the overlap. Spanked at the end of a good day. 30 second shake out and did it just fine. Oh well. The route name is a bit of a give-away in terms of which hand you need to work into the pocket!

with Gary Kitchen
OliverRoss 04/May/15 Lead O/S
with Alkis
kermit_uk 04/May/15 Lead O/S
with Phil Parkin
Alkis 04/May/15 Lead dog

Went wrong handed 5 times, each time getting the hold above and then downclimbing. By the time I thought that maybe I shouldn't be doing that, I was boxed, so dropped it after getting the crux sequence.

Matthew Ferrier 24/Apr/15 2nd
MSchobitz 24/Apr/15 Lead β

Basically on Matt's gear.

Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead dog
amccann 03/Nov/14 Lead β

On Bens gear.

shaunhumphreys 03/Nov/14 Lead β

On bens Gear, felt supprisingly ok

benkelsey 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S

good gear and easy moves to bomber jams

with Alex Mccan, Shaun Humphreys
John Bish 18/Oct/14 Lead
with James Martin
Neil McA 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with James Hall, Blond, Nick Wallace, Stan
John Bish 04/Oct/14 2nd
with James Martin
Gambit 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Only got it when I ignored all this hand stuff and climbed it

with Royston
Stig 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead RP
AdamPrzeslak 14/Sep/14 TR dnf
DavidR 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 04/Aug/14 2nd O/S

short but packs a punch! good route

with Dave
Emma Reynolds 30/Jul/14 2nd RP
kyaizawa 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Tricky, sustained and sequency, though there are bomber jams post-crux; probably a bit stiff at E1.

Guy Atkinson 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf

The holds are all there but they're not that easy to use, pretty sequency and strong, tried it a few times but couldn't get my right hand in the pocket (no way I was getting up without my left hand in there) Tom eventually figured out a sequence but took a fall after the vertical crack cos it was really scrittly and dirty. I can see how it's supposed to be an E1 but it doesn't feel like it.

with Tom Butterworth
MrBIond 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mrteale 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with MrBlond
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Roisin
Hidden 03/Jun/14 Lead
WillDoyle 17/May/14 Solo
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
Lazytraveller 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/14 2nd
Wil Treasure 04/Apr/14 Lead
rurp 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Hard start, easy middle , loads of gear, then technical hard finish

with bill farmer
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead dog
Jim Slater 22/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Gudge 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dprctr 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Crossed through to the undercut. Getting off the floor took a while to figure out!

Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead RP
The Norris 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Nice route, first 5C for me. i think my massive ape index helped avoid any necessity to use good technique.

with Gavin
Louise Hall 09/Jun/13 2nd dog

Such a frustrating climb. It made me forget how to climb, embarassingly scrappy and I just couldn't swap my hands in the pocket or find a non-strong way to get past the crux. I will be very happy if I get that in the future.

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
giuly 19/May/13 TR dog
with Ben Abell, Neil Shephard
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd O/S
nick ferro 19/May/13 Lead dog
Sam Cooke 24/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Tadams 24/Feb/13 Lead dog
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Lead O/S
oi_now ??/2013 2nd
pie_eater_pete 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/12 2nd β
climberchristy 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Excellent. Technical and superb throughout. Gear is fantastic

with bencole
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Solo O/S
sparkass 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Bloke on a Rope 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A tricky little blighter nearly blew my on-sight.

with Matt
Climbster 02/Sep/12 2nd β
with Ian
antdav 01/Sep/12 Lead dnf

A couple of hard moves but well protected. Couldn't get the lay back to the pocket without aid.

with Ian Routledge
Nick1812P 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Pete
pete1993 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Nick
marcduhig 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Nicola
Compo 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Nice, not too obvious. Classic E1 short climb.

with Hannah
johang 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 10/Aug/12 2nd
mtempest 08/Aug/12 2nd
with Richard Waltham
Trevera 04/Aug/12 Lead
with nick sillem
Adrianw 04/Aug/12 2nd dnf

Failed to engage correct launch sequence

James Oswald 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

cool route. amazing little moving.

jwpil 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
cameron_hall 15/Jul/12 2nd β

Although I think Will did what I would have done anyway, it was much easier having just watched someone else deal with the wrong hand bit. :-)

SGD 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

I almost certainly did this with the wrong hand in 'the hold' but it worked. Lovely route packs a lot in for a short pitch and a short climber.

will_benfold 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Cameron
Andy Peak 1 19/Jun/12 Lead
Neil McA 17/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Andrew James
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd dog
deacondeacon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
pmurdy 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mike W
mwatson 18/May/12 2nd O/S

tall person beta makes this a pretty nice hvs

Rich Kirby 12/May/12 Solo
with Ruth
stuaart 14/Apr/12 2nd dog

That move felt properly hard---I'm sure a longer pair of arms would help!

with Neil Redgrave
stefie c 30/Mar/12 2nd
JohnFJP 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Twisty 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Nice start (again) but pretty steady- doesn't actually matter which way round your hands are- easy enough to swap them over- very well protected

with Byron Buck
Andy Peak 1 ??/2012 -
Hardonicus 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Attempted on Nick's gear. Got the pocket/undercut but didn't commit above. Lame...

with nick a, Luke Donaldson
jshields 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Dave Scott
Speeddemonsi 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jimbo C 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

My first E1 lead. The short jamming crack above the difficulties was very well received.

with Pete
tradguy 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Dave89 30/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Didn't commit once had the pocket. So Andre led instead and followed on second Lovely, but tough.

with Andre
Hidden 29/Jul/11 -
JRae 18/May/11 Lead
with A Saul
Reaver2k 18/May/11 Lead
with JRae
cragtyke 08/May/11 2nd
with john g
Hidden 03/May/11 2nd O/S
Brown 03/May/11 Lead O/S
with Gabriel
tebs 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this, nicely balancey past the pocket (seems like there's more than one way of doing it - mine was "wrong" but worked fine).

with Jon
Jonathan Hall 17/Apr/11 Lead

Ace route.

dominic lee 16/Apr/11 Solo O/S
MNA123 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Preety straightforward,it's the name that confused me.I spent ages climbing up and down trying to get my right hand in the pocket, as soon as i committed to left hand in pocket in went preety simply.

with john (Krank)
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jake Young 21/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Dave Knight, Tom Redmond
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead β
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
disturbed_one51 07/Nov/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 24/Oct/10 2nd
BeccaSnowden 24/Oct/10 Lead

Went up to the pocket with left hand and then decided it was wrong so tried to downclimb but had to rest on gear. Went up again with left hand in pocket and put right hand over to the undercut then matched on the undercut - so much easier than trying to reach the pocket with my right hand!

thomasadixon 24/Oct/10 Lead β

Had seen Al do it first. Seemed fairly obvious what to do though, just wasn't sure it was possible to reach that far!

with Mike, Becca, Alan
Dave Foster 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Si
ojp 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
Rachel Slater 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with kind strangers
mark20 10/Oct/10 Lead RP

Ground up second go

bigdrew 10/Oct/10 Lead β

With Marks gear insitu.

with Mark R
schaff 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tim
thetourist 02/Oct/10 TR O/S
uphillnow 10/Sep/10 Lead
will smith11 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Twisty
Twisty 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 23/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Danny Crump 10/Jul/10 TR
with Richard Vaughan, Sarah Pentelow
LiL Saz 10/Jul/10 TR
Graeme Hammond 01/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with federico
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead β
aking12 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
john lynch 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

great fun!

with Ant King, Neil Elmore
Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd
Milne 23/Mar/10 Lead O/S

just brilliant, thought the start was as hard as anything higher, awsome pull off the pocket for the crux, found myself laughing all the way up this. got to be worth 2 stars.

RM199 ??/2010 2nd dog
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
tom.e 31/Oct/09 Lead β
with Malcolm
Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
mic_b 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
leon 26/Sep/09 Lead
with Steven Davidson
Phill Mitch 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with gaz
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd dog
MD 02/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Ian W
Alex Winter 28/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Straigthforward once I'd worked it out and got the correct hand in the pocket (although the guy before me did it wit hthe other hand in, so hey ho). Crux for me was leaving the ground.

with Gary
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
spacey 11/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Paul Evans 11/Jul/09 Lead
with spacey
altairego 09/Jun/09 2nd
with Jim and Paul
joese7en ?/Jun/09 Lead rpt
UndeRsoGGycrAg 30/May/09 TR β
with Steve
Hidden 30/May/09 TR O/S
chrisjones199 25/May/09 TR dog
Andrew Barker 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Easy to work out the correct sequence before you start climbing.

Hidden 02/May/09 Lead dnf
Cake 02/May/09 2nd O/S

Nice pebble-jam left left me with a mark for days

with Matt
mjeffery 18/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond 14/Mar/09 2nd rpt

after failed lead, andy dog lead with gear in

Bradbury 14/Mar/09 Lead dog

Graeme tried it and put most of the gear in. He couldn't get past the pocket. I tied on and tried. Fell a couple of times on pocket move but then finished it.

Martin Haworth 01/Mar/09 Lead dog

Had one rest, disappointed not to get the on-site. Excellent route.

shaun walby 01/Mar/09 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2009 -
jiles ??/2009 Lead
Ben Harper 13/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Andy Webster
mullermn 16/Aug/08 2nd dnf

Barely got off the floor.

with Monkey
Monk 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tlr 24/Jun/08 Lead
Joe Dove 08/Jun/08 Lead
with kev
Ian Broome 16/Feb/08 Lead β
with Tanya
danoflynn 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Chris
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Nov/07 2nd β
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Solo RP
Mike_Hayes ?/Sep/07 -
with John Nightingale
adam carless 03/Aug/07 2nd O/S

By a completely different sequence to everyone else - no surprise there.

Hidden 03/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Pythonist 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S

I reckon Adam got the more usual sequence, but I found it much easier just to use the wrong hand!

Mick r 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
craig d 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Great route

with Simon Kincaid
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 28/Apr/07 Solo rpt
HimTiggins 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John
dannyboy83 21/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Daniel Armitage 25/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/06 Lead dog
loonyclimber 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S

as the name suggests... :D

with Ian
Joe Costello ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Liam
Lex_2004 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Piers Hemsley
featuresforfeet 29/Jan/06 2nd dog
with Fiend
Luke Brooks 26/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Solo β
Dave Musgrove ?/Jan/06 Lead
with David
Ben1983 ?/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Nicos 19/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/05 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/05 2nd
Alex Mason ?/May/05 Lead O/S

class route underrated 3* definately wud have another go. gr8 moves

with lee robinson
chris sm ?/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
nickcanute ??/2005 Lead O/S
mikeski ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Oct/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/04 2nd
jonnyboy 09/Oct/04 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 2nd
Strong Steve 07/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 06/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Billg 24/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Hidden 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Roget 21/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
ukb & bmc shark 09/May/87 Solo O/S
with Phill Dickens
Neil McA 18/Jul/86 Lead rpt
with Tom Lewis
Neil McA 19/Jun/86 2nd O/S
with Martin Wilson, Beak 2
Mark Kemball 29/Nov/82 Solo
with Paul Clark, Paul "Curly" Williamson
20 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 79
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 70
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set