There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start just right of the arete and climb past the right edge of a thin overlap. Head up to power through the final roof centrally. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Craggs 1983.
Jaimey's tricky slab list , Stanage Slab , Eastern Grit E1s
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Northern Mountain Monkey | 27 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Also my first E1 lead. I agree that it is a good first E1 lead as the gear on the crux is good and the route is escapable. Im 6'4" and I found the roof pretty tricky as I had to get 'scrunched' up in order to reach the holds above the roof. The slab is easier than it looks (4a?) although I think there is the potential for decking out at the top of the slab. Well worth doing. NMM | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Also my first E1 lead. I agree that it is a good first E1 lead as the gear on the crux is good and the route is escapable. Im 6'4" and I found the roof pretty tricky as I had to get 'scrunched' up in order to reach the holds above the roof. The slab is easier than it looks (4a?) although I think there is the potential for decking out at the top of the slab. Well worth doing. NMM |
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MeMeMe | 19 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 too. Was a bit contrived but pleasant combination of delicate slab at bottom and bold roof at top. I'm 5'10" and found no problem reaching, my partner is several inches shorter and could reach okay once she found appropriate footholds. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: My first E1 too. Was a bit contrived but pleasant combination of delicate slab at bottom and bold roof at top. I'm 5'10" and found no problem reaching, my partner is several inches shorter and could reach okay once she found appropriate footholds. |
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Jon Greengrass | 6 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: contrived and escapable but some pleasant climbing on the slab none the less. climbing through the roof is problematical but entertaining. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: contrived and escapable but some pleasant climbing on the slab none the less. climbing through the roof is problematical but entertaining. |
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Grade: E1 6a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)