Rockfax Description
The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then hand-traverse the lowest break to reach the cracks a short distance below the jammed block. Finish steeply up the left-hand crack. Good hard work. © Rockfax

FA. F.Pigott, Morley Wood 1929. Named after Dr. Rice Kemper Adams.

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

pingora 08/Oct/17 2nd O/S

Keeps on coming at you from the moment you start the traverse until the very last move. Full value from this route

with Masaki
AndyScheller 08/Oct/17 2nd dnf

Just couldn't get the hand-jam after the traverse

PaulTanton 23/Aug/17 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/17 Lead dog
poeter210 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Archbishop 06/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Dan Shacklock
Droyd 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Emily
Ben Bransby 14/Jun/17 Solo
Alex Hyde 10/May/17 Lead O/S

Friend found the moving of the traverse a bit of a challenge, its not as juggy as it looked! Thought it was VS4c in the stanage guide so the challenge came as a surprise

with Sam
Katsmiff 08/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Moving from the hand-traverse to get into the break was hard work. Probably shouldn't have done it right after Surgeon's Saunter as I was still pumped.

Andy Moles 08/Oct/16 Solo
rurp 20/Sep/16 Lead
with bill farmer
rd20 07/May/16 2nd dog

Couldn't find handhold near top

with Tony Hall, Len
Flavio 07/May/16 Solo O/S
Andrew Sloan 11/Oct/15 2nd
with Tony Holdsworth
Tony Holdsworth 11/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Andy Lawrence, Mick Radford
Mick r 11/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Dan Geh 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Arjun
Hidden 06/Sep/15 2nd β
gpcomps 06/Sep/15 Lead dog

Found this very challenging, initially went off route above the hand traverse, had to use siege tactics to complete

miketong 06/Sep/15 2nd dog

Killer route, destroyed us both. My hands were pretty torn up from some shaky jamming. A real struggle!

AJ007 08/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
jshields 04/May/15 Lead

Got to be HVS!

TonyF 04/May/15 2nd O/S
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Canyak ??/2015 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
Nick Wallis 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Tracy, Laura
dannyboy83 28/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with Ben Corbey, Sky
rockman 05/Jul/14 TR

To remove gear.

Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd
nick ferro 05/Jul/14 -
efrance24234 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
jwhereat ??/2014 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Nov/13 Solo O/S
uphillnow 09/Jun/13 Lead

May have lead before. Seconded Cath Walton in 2012

with Graham Exley
Hidden ??/2013 Solo O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick1812P 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Jake
lithos 29/Sep/11 2nd
with carmen
qJoeq 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Dad
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Roget 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with robin
Hoyes 02/Jul/11 Lead dog

A difficult move following the traverse, must get stronger.

with Alex Y
btc 02/Jul/11 Lead dnf
with Bob Workman
Hidden 07/Jun/11 2nd
ColinD 07/Jun/11 2nd
batterj2 24/Apr/11 2nd dog

Known as Doctor's Saunter in Eastern Grit (Surgeon's Saunter in EG is known as Surgeon's Saunter Direct on UKC). Painful jamming but epic to finish!

with Tom Parry, Jamie Shaw
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead dnf
shaky2 06/Apr/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead dnf
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
PAJames ??/2011 -
Scott Anderson ??/2011 -
nick ferro 05/Sep/10 -

nice jams after a pumpy start. Good gear - HVS I reackon.

Climber1806 01/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 2nd
jtree03 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Tony, Brother Al
Graeme Hammond 17/Jun/10 Lead rpt

my new favourite climb on Stanage? Fantastic jams, jugs and lay-backs, classic 3 star stuff but without the polish and hype of stuff like inverted-V. First couple of pieces of gear in place after Richard failed attempt.

with morgan, Richard Williams
Lumbering Oaf 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Could get into cracks after hand traverse - next time!!

Will_Maxwell 02/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Debbie Armstrong
J.Wells 31/May/10 2nd β
Shauna 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve
geddicakes 28/Apr/10 2nd
with Liam
chrisallan 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
santobugito 23/Apr/10 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Lacks the direct line stating and finishing on the left but is more balanced overall and fantastic moves and jamming mean its still a great classic and HVS for most.

with Pete aka Dad
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Jim Slater 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Confused?!.. my guidebooks have Doctors Saunter (VS indirect on SS with hand traverse) and Surgeons Saunter, the direct line at HVS 5b.

with Rosa
jimmys 17/Oct/09 2nd dnf
with remus
adi bryant 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Austyn
theo.mooney ?/Jul/09 Lead

feels pretty steep.

with Mary Moloney
jon bradley 27/Jun/09 Lead dog

Brutal - sat after hand traverse. Too much beer the night before

with Charles Brett
Mike_Hayes 25/Jun/09 -
with John Nightingale
Glyn Davidson 24/May/09 Lead dog
with Dan
Dan77 24/May/09 2nd
orge 10/May/09 2nd dnf

Climbed the start of this yesterday and continued on Doctor's Chimney. Was shocked when the top section of the starting block moved about an inch as I was pulling up/back on it! Seemed to stop because it caught on the arete. We considered recent seepage might have played a part. Given that it's a beginner's climb in a popular area and most people would not treat the block with suspicion, figured it was worth posting a note of caution.

jcurley 21/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Couldn't get out of the hand traverse, great route though

with Chris Drinkwater
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead dnf
mjeffery 15/Apr/09 2nd
figfour 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with ken
Mr. K 23/Nov/08 Lead dnf
springything 23/Nov/08 Lead dnf
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 -
deacondeacon 26/Jul/08 Lead
with Paul
deacondeacon 26/Jul/08 Lead
tebs 15/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Oh dear. Harder than expected, unless i'm missing something. Couldn't progress beyond the end of the hand traverse, have a feeling it may require a technique known as "jamming". Backed off.

with Alex
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
alisonk ?/Jun/08 2nd dog

Bit of a battle at the bottom

with Alex
Sankey 22/May/08 Lead O/S

Top bit felt well out there at VS. Think there is some confusion in the naming here compared to the new Stanage guide, which has Surgeons Saunter down as the direct, and Doctors Saunter down as the hand traverse start, which I looked at but refused as it looked hard!

with Jon M
morganator ?/May/08 2nd
with Steve Ebbens
Daxman ?/May/08 Lead dnf

Oh dear just managed to down climb (side climb really!) after getting stuck at the end of the hand traverse. A mighty climb!

with Rick Clapham
mattyork2 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Adam Hodgson
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
martin48 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with dave
Rob Davies 20/Oct/07 2nd
with Phil Ashton
Alfredo ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Ben H
b.hayley ?/Aug/07 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 26/Jun/07 Lead dnf

I was so cold I could not clip the cam placed in the vertical crack at the end of the traverse. I dropped onto another in the traverse break.

with Jo Bowen
Hidden 17/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Geras 10/Jun/07 Lead dnf

the travers and manover into the crack is very tiring. Pumped out on a greasy day, I will be back!

with Rich B and Kiwi Pete
Hidden 24/May/07 2nd dog
Hidden 24/May/07 2nd O/S
mshorter ??/2007 -
colin milton 28/Jun/06 2nd

couldn,t do the direct start, nice one pep

with pep
Hidden 07/Jun/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/06 Lead dog
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd RP
with reeeve
climbingrev 17/Sep/05 TR rpt

Lovely climb. Traverse and switch quite tiring. Quite steep.

Hidden ?/Jan/05 Lead
DerwentDiluted 05/Jul/04 Lead
with Laurie Smith
dan gibson ??/2003 Solo O/S
Mark Stevenson 03/May/02 Solo O/S
Chalky Cat ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dom Rich Sarah
Peakology ??/2002 Lead O/S
with cat
Ropeboy 02/Jul/01 Lead
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
goi.ashmore 22/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Kaspar Martin
Hidden ?/Jul/99 2nd
rurp ??/1996 -
nigehughes ?/Jun/95 Lead
with Scouse Atkins
goi.ashmore 28/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
Hidden 13/Jun/93 2nd
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??/1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
BRUCESTRAC ??/1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Hidden 10/Jun/89 Lead
stp 04/Sep/88 Solo O/S
malc 07/Jul/85 Lead O/S
mark-abz 16/Nov/84 Solo
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/83 -
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/83 -
babymoac 27/Jun/81 2nd
with MTW
rogerskews ??/1976 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set