20m.

Rockfax Description
The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then hand-traverse the lowest break to reach the cracks a short distance below the jammed block. Finish steeply up the left-hand crack. Good hard work. © Rockfax

FA. F.Pigott, Morley Wood 1929. Named after Dr. Rice Kemper Adams.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth doing, though probably not as your first VS. Can't really say I noticed much difference in grade between the direct and this version. The move at the end of the traverse has to be at least 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely worth doing, though probably not as your first VS. Can't really say I noticed much difference in grade between the direct and this version. The move at the end of the traverse has to be at least 5a.
Reds 25 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Failed miserably after knackering myself on the Direct. The new BMS g
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Failed miserably after knackering myself on the Direct. The new BMS g
Chris Craggs 25 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The 1989 guide says "an easier start is possible by traversing in from DC" it doesn't say at what height. And btw - it was graded VDiff when it was 1st put up!!! Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 1989 guide says "an easier start is possible by traversing in from DC" it doesn't say at what height. And btw - it was graded VDiff when it was 1st put up!!! Chris
jackie 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Really well worth doing. Even at 5'4" you can hand traverse it with your feet on good holds. Although you should be more careful than I was, in case your left foot pops on the transition move and you plummet rapidly toward the ground. Gear's good though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really well worth doing. Even at 5'4" you can hand traverse it with your feet on good holds. Although you should be more careful than I was, in case your left foot pops on the transition move and you plummet rapidly toward the ground. Gear's good though.
Jon Greengrass 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 32 votes and no comments? A powerful route certainly and high in the grade. If you're tall 6 foot plus you can hand traverse the break with your feet on good holds, or you could climb higher and traverse on jams or like me you could be lowered off and let your stronger partner lead the route instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 32 votes and no comments? A powerful route certainly and high in the grade. If you're tall 6 foot plus you can hand traverse the break with your feet on good holds, or you could climb higher and traverse on jams or like me you could be lowered off and let your stronger partner lead the route instead.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
georgenvk 15 Jun 2nd dog
aspiratti 15 Jun Lead dog
mrphilipoldham 27 May Lead O/S Solid HVS and not an easy one at that. Brilliant route, steep and jammy. Questioned life choices half way up. PS. 1929? Jesus!
Solid HVS and not an easy one at that. Brilliant route, steep and jammy. Questioned life choices half way up. PS. 1929? Jesus!
HenryMeier 27 May 2nd dog Got too pumped trying to figure out this move near the top. Much more sustained than it looks from below.
Got too pumped trying to figure out this move near the top. Much more sustained than it looks from below.
Hidden 25 May Lead rpt
poeter210 25 May 2nd rpt
with druss
with druss
abi.k.l 24 May 2nd dog
David Kay 24 May Lead O/S
with abi.k.l
with abi.k.l
jessieleong 25 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf After getting a sweet little move on Doctor's chimney- left hand reach, right hand on a small jug, toe jam and a right wide shoulder reach to get to the hand traverse ( big silver and big blue cam to protect)- I got spooked after I placed the gear. Tried to rest and not get shaken. Did the move on 3rd attempt but got way too pumped and a bit scared about final moves off the Doctor's saunter to the crack above,
After getting a sweet little move on Doctor's chimney- left hand reach, right hand on a small jug, toe jam and a right wide shoulder reach to get to the hand traverse ( big silver and big blue cam to protect)- I got spooked after I placed the gear. Tried to rest and not get shaken. Did the move on 3rd attempt but got way too pumped and a bit scared about final moves off the Doctor's saunter to the crack above,
matt davies 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
mattx1123 18 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Too pumped for the hand traverse after the surgeons saunter attempt
Too pumped for the hand traverse after the surgeons saunter attempt
Hidden 27 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
josefft 14 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf
max_chan 14 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sharron - PCC
with Sharron - PCC
climberchristy 3 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt Last route of a long day managed to feel harder than it probably is! Good climbing though.
with LMS
Last route of a long day managed to feel harder than it probably is! Good climbing though.
with LMS
LMS 3 Jun, 2018 2nd So tired! Last route of the day. Need more stamina...
So tired! Last route of the day. Need more stamina...
martinbettridge06 27 May, 2018 2nd
jimbonfire 27 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Alex Hyde 17 May, 2018 Lead rpt Bit of a ground up like last time as some of the gear had been pre-placed, fantastic route though!
with Emily, harry.morrish
Bit of a ground up like last time as some of the gear had been pre-placed, fantastic route though!
with Emily, harry.morrish
harry.morrish 17 May, 2018 Lead dnf very gritty hvs
very gritty hvs
emdawes 17 May, 2018 2nd Hardest route I've ever climbed. Harry can back me up on this one. Pretty sure Alex is a wizard like Joe.
Hardest route I've ever climbed. Harry can back me up on this one. Pretty sure Alex is a wizard like Joe.
mskngch 8 Oct, 2017 Lead
pingora 8 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S Keeps on coming at you from the moment you start the traverse until the very last move. Full value from this route
with mskngch
Keeps on coming at you from the moment you start the traverse until the very last move. Full value from this route
with mskngch
AndyScheller 8 Oct, 2017 2nd dnf Just couldn't get the hand-jam after the traverse
Just couldn't get the hand-jam after the traverse
PaulTanton 23 Aug, 2017 Solo O/S
Hidden 20 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
poeter210 20 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with druss
with druss
Archbishop 6 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Dan Shacklock
with Dan Shacklock
Droyd 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
Ben Bransby 14 Jun, 2017 Solo
Alex Hyde 10 May, 2017 Lead O/S Friend found the moving of the traverse a bit of a challenge, its not as juggy as it looked! Thought it was VS4c in the stanage guide so the challenge came as a surprise
with Sam
Friend found the moving of the traverse a bit of a challenge, its not as juggy as it looked! Thought it was VS4c in the stanage guide so the challenge came as a surprise
with Sam
Katsmiff 8 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S Moving from the hand-traverse to get into the break was hard work. Probably shouldn't have done it right after Surgeon's Saunter as I was still pumped.
Moving from the hand-traverse to get into the break was hard work. Probably shouldn't have done it right after Surgeon's Saunter as I was still pumped.
Rafal Malczyk 8 Apr, 2017 Lead
Andy Moles 8 Oct, 2016 Solo
rurp 20 Sep, 2016 Lead
with bill farmer
with bill farmer
rd20 7 May, 2016 2nd dog Couldn't find handhold near top
with Tony Hall, Len
Couldn't find handhold near top
with Tony Hall, Len
Flavio 7 May, 2016 Solo O/S
Andrew Sloan 11 Oct, 2015 2nd
with Tony Holdsworth
with Tony Holdsworth
Tony Holdsworth 11 Oct, 2015 Lead rpt
with Andy Lawrence, Mick Radford
with Andy Lawrence, Mick Radford
Mick r 11 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Dan Geh 10 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with Arjun
with Arjun
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 2nd β
gpcomps 6 Sep, 2015 Lead dog Found this very challenging, initially went off route above the hand traverse, had to use siege tactics to complete
Found this very challenging, initially went off route above the hand traverse, had to use siege tactics to complete
miketong 6 Sep, 2015 2nd dog Killer route, destroyed us both. My hands were pretty torn up from some shaky jamming. A real struggle!
with gpcomps
Killer route, destroyed us both. My hands were pretty torn up from some shaky jamming. A real struggle!
with gpcomps
AJ007 8 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2015 Lead
Hidden 4 May, 2015 2nd O/S
dan_o_b ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Canyak ??, 2015 -
Canyak ??, 2015 -
Nick Wallis 12 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tracy, Laura
with Tracy, Laura
dannyboy83 28 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
with nimajneb, Sky
with nimajneb, Sky
nimajneb 28 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
rockman 5 Jul, 2014 TR To remove gear.
To remove gear.
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 2nd
nick ferro 5 Jul, 2014 -
efrance24234 20 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with beth-h
with beth-h
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
David Sherratt ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Alfie Conn ??, 2014 -
jwhereat ??, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden ?Nov, 2013 Solo O/S
uphillnow 9 Jun, 2013 Lead May have lead before. Seconded Cath Walton in 2012
with Graham Exley
May have lead before. Seconded Cath Walton in 2012
with Graham Exley
Hidden ??, 2013 Solo O/S
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Nick1812P 22 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
lithos 29 Sep, 2011 2nd
with Lemming
with Lemming
qJoeq 27 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with david14
with david14
Hidden 12 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Roget 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with robin
with robin
Hoyes 2 Jul, 2011 Lead dog A difficult move following the traverse, must get stronger.
A difficult move following the traverse, must get stronger.
btc 2 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf
with Bob Workman
with Bob Workman
Hidden 7 Jun, 2011 2nd
ColinD 7 Jun, 2011 2nd
batterj2 24 Apr, 2011 2nd dog Known as Doctor's Saunter in Eastern Grit (Surgeon's Saunter in EG is known as Surgeon's Saunter Direct on UKC). Painful jamming but epic to finish!
with Tom Parry, Jamie Shaw
Known as Doctor's Saunter in Eastern Grit (Surgeon's Saunter in EG is known as Surgeon's Saunter Direct on UKC). Painful jamming but epic to finish!
with Tom Parry, Jamie Shaw
Hidden 6 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
shaky2 6 Apr, 2011 2nd dnf
Hidden 6 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
debsb ??, 2011 Lead
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Scott Anderson ??, 2011 -
nick ferro 5 Sep, 2010 - nice jams after a pumpy start. Good gear - HVS I reackon.
nice jams after a pumpy start. Good gear - HVS I reackon.
Climber1806 1 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 2nd
jtree03 24 Jul, 2010 Lead
with Tony, Brother Al
with Tony, Brother Al
Graeme Hammond 17 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt my new favourite climb on Stanage? Fantastic jams, jugs and lay-backs, classic 3 star stuff but without the polish and hype of stuff like inverted-V. First couple of pieces of gear in place after Richard failed attempt.
with morgan, rich_hw
my new favourite climb on Stanage? Fantastic jams, jugs and lay-backs, classic 3 star stuff but without the polish and hype of stuff like inverted-V. First couple of pieces of gear in place after Richard failed attempt.
with morgan, rich_hw
Lumbering Oaf 12 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf Could get into cracks after hand traverse - next time!!
Could get into cracks after hand traverse - next time!!
Will_Maxwell 2 Jun, 2010 Lead dog
with Debbie Armstrong
with Debbie Armstrong
J.Wells 31 May, 2010 2nd β
with mark20
with mark20
Hidden 21 May, 2010 Lead O/S
geddicakes 28 Apr, 2010 2nd
chrisallan 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
santobugito 23 Apr, 2010 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 7 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S Lacks the direct line stating and finishing on the left but is more balanced overall and fantastic moves and jamming mean its still a great classic and HVS for most.
with Pete aka Dad
Lacks the direct line stating and finishing on the left but is more balanced overall and fantastic moves and jamming mean its still a great classic and HVS for most.
with Pete aka Dad
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
Jim Slater 31 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S Confused?!.. my guidebooks have Doctors Saunter (VS indirect on SS with hand traverse) and Surgeons Saunter, the direct line at HVS 5b.
with Rosa
Confused?!.. my guidebooks have Doctors Saunter (VS indirect on SS with hand traverse) and Surgeons Saunter, the direct line at HVS 5b.
with Rosa
jimmys 17 Oct, 2009 2nd dnf
with remus
with remus
adi bryant 24 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Austyn
with Austyn
theo.mooney ?Jul, 2009 Lead feels pretty steep.
with Mary Moloney
feels pretty steep.
with Mary Moloney
jon bradley 27 Jun, 2009 Lead dog Brutal - sat after hand traverse. Too much beer the night before
with Charles Brett
Brutal - sat after hand traverse. Too much beer the night before
with Charles Brett
Mike_Hayes 25 Jun, 2009 -
with John Nightingale
with John Nightingale
Glyn Davidson 24 May, 2009 Lead dog
with Dan77
with Dan77
Dan77 24 May, 2009 2nd
orge 10 May, 2009 2nd dnf Climbed the start of this yesterday and continued on Doctor's Chimney. Was shocked when the top section of the starting block moved about an inch as I was pulling up/back on it! Seemed to stop because it caught on the arete. We considered recent seepage might have played a part. Given that it's a beginner's climb in a popular area and most people would not treat the block with suspicion, figured it was worth posting a note of caution.
Climbed the start of this yesterday and continued on Doctor's Chimney. Was shocked when the top section of the starting block moved about an inch as I was pulling up/back on it! Seemed to stop because it caught on the arete. We considered recent seepage might have played a part. Given that it's a beginner's climb in a popular area and most people would not treat the block with suspicion, figured it was worth posting a note of caution.
jcurley 21 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf Couldn't get out of the hand traverse, great route though
with Chris Drinkwater
Couldn't get out of the hand traverse, great route though
with Chris Drinkwater
blahblahblah 18 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf VS4C ???
VS4C ???
mjeffery 15 Apr, 2009 2nd
figfour 5 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with ken
with ken
DubyaJamesDubya ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
with Andrew Bevan
Mr. K 23 Nov, 2008 Lead dnf
springything 23 Nov, 2008 Lead dnf
with Mr. K
with Mr. K
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27 Sep, 2008 Solo O/S
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Jul, 2008 -
deacondeacon 26 Jul, 2008 Lead
with Paul
with Paul
deacondeacon 26 Jul, 2008 Lead
Hidden 15 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf
feilx 11 Jun, 2008 Solo O/S
feilx 11 Jun, 2008 Solo O/S
alisonk ?Jun, 2008 2nd dog Bit of a battle at the bottom
with Alex
Bit of a battle at the bottom
with Alex
Sankey 22 May, 2008 Lead O/S Top bit felt well out there at VS. Think there is some confusion in the naming here compared to the new Stanage guide, which has Surgeons Saunter down as the direct, and Doctors Saunter down as the hand traverse start, which I looked at but refused as it looked hard!
with Jon M
Top bit felt well out there at VS. Think there is some confusion in the naming here compared to the new Stanage guide, which has Surgeons Saunter down as the direct, and Doctors Saunter down as the hand traverse start, which I looked at but refused as it looked hard!
with Jon M
morganator ?May, 2008 2nd
with Steve Ebbens
with Steve Ebbens
Daxman ?May, 2008 Lead dnf Oh dear just managed to down climb (side climb really!) after getting stuck at the end of the hand traverse. A mighty climb!
with Rick Clapham
Oh dear just managed to down climb (side climb really!) after getting stuck at the end of the hand traverse. A mighty climb!
with Rick Clapham
mattyork2 16 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with Adam Hodgson
with Adam Hodgson
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead O/S
martin48 21 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with dave
with dave
Rob Davies 20 Oct, 2007 2nd
with Phil A
with Phil A
Alfredo ?Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
b.hayley ?Aug, 2007 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 26 Jun, 2007 Lead dnf I was so cold I could not clip the cam placed in the vertical crack at the end of the traverse. I dropped onto another in the traverse break.
with Jo Bowen
I was so cold I could not clip the cam placed in the vertical crack at the end of the traverse. I dropped onto another in the traverse break.
with Jo Bowen
Hidden 17 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
Geras 10 Jun, 2007 Lead dnf the travers and manover into the crack is very tiring. Pumped out on a greasy day, I will be back!
with Rich B and Kiwi Pete
the travers and manover into the crack is very tiring. Pumped out on a greasy day, I will be back!
with Rich B and Kiwi Pete
Hidden 24 May, 2007 2nd dog
Hidden 24 May, 2007 2nd O/S
mshorter ??, 2007 -
colin milton 28 Jun, 2006 2nd couldn,t do the direct start, nice one pep
with pep
couldn,t do the direct start, nice one pep
with pep
Hidden 7 Jun, 2006 Lead rpt
Hidden 7 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2006 Lead dog
Jon Greengrass ??, 2006 2nd RP
with reeeve
with reeeve
climbingrev 17 Sep, 2005 TR rpt Lovely climb. Traverse and switch quite tiring. Quite steep.
Lovely climb. Traverse and switch quite tiring. Quite steep.
Hidden ?Jan, 2005 Lead
DerwentDiluted 5 Jul, 2004 Lead
with Laurie Smith
with Laurie Smith
dan gibson ??, 2003 Solo O/S
Mark Stevenson 3 May, 2002 Solo O/S
Chalky Cat ??, 2002 2nd O/S
with Dom Rich Sarah
with Dom Rich Sarah
Peakology ??, 2002 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 2 Jul, 2001 Lead
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead
goi.ashmore 22 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Kaspar Martin
with Kaspar Martin
Hidden ?Jul, 1999 2nd
rurp ??, 1996 -
nigehughes ?Jun, 1995 Lead
with Scouse Atkins
with Scouse Atkins
goi.ashmore 28 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
with Simon Coles
Hidden 13 Jun, 1993 2nd
Marti999 ??, 1990 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??, 1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
with Chris Cracknell,Various
BRUCESTRAC ??, 1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Hidden 10 Jun, 1989 Lead
stp 4 Sep, 1988 Solo O/S
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1986 Lead
with Richard Tuting, Simon ????
with Richard Tuting, Simon ????
malc 7 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
mark-abz 16 Nov, 1984 Solo
ajtay ??, 1984 Lead
Dave Musgrove 28 Aug, 1983 -
Dave Musgrove 28 Aug, 1983 -
babymoac 27 Jun, 1981 2nd
with MTW
with MTW
Rick51 8 Oct, 1978 Lead
rogerskews ??, 1976 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 49
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set