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18m.

Rockfax Description
A great route with a hard, but safe start and excellent jamming above. The dubious looking jammed tooth at half-height has resisted many years of efforts to wrench it from its socket. Finish up the right-hand crack for the full effect. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1953.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Stanage *** HVS's, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 3 Star Stanage, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), The Gritlist, Stanage HVS Challenge, Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
pc1983 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Wow, this is a hard mother flipping HVS. I made the first break and was too tired, likely from being out of shape, sleep deprived and slightly hungover.
βeta?
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βeta: Wow, this is a hard mother flipping HVS. I made the first break and was too tired, likely from being out of shape, sleep deprived and slightly hungover.
spiderdan 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lower section protection worked well with Dmm I.m.p.s protecting my fall. Then laybacking and move up to chockstone- put a sling on it and then thought better of it and removed (feels dubious). Jamming technique would be v helpful higher up but I had to make do without! One full arm jam and will power over the mantel (make sure you have something good to protect final fall). Route took forever and felt epic to me! You know you have done it after.
 
Show beta
βeta: Lower section protection worked well with Dmm I.m.p.s protecting my fall. Then laybacking and move up to chockstone- put a sling on it and then thought better of it and removed (feels dubious). Jamming technique would be v helpful higher up but I had to make do without! One full arm jam and will power over the mantel (make sure you have something good to protect final fall). Route took forever and felt epic to me! You know you have done it after.
Duz Walker 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Slippy start quickly rewarded with a sit down rest. You could rid yourself of an entire racksworth of gear at any point onwards. Way up high hang of a right hand jam and survey the scenery before the final moves. Beached whale not compulsory. FRCS (Ed.)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Slippy start quickly rewarded with a sit down rest. You could rid yourself of an entire racksworth of gear at any point onwards. Way up high hang of a right hand jam and survey the scenery before the final moves. Beached whale not compulsory. FRCS (Ed.)
fenclimb 8 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I don't see what everyone's problem is with this route its great although hard nice thought provoking start to think about before you set off and some great jam's to top out, three stars all the way
βeta?
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βeta: I don't see what everyone's problem is with this route its great although hard nice thought provoking start to think about before you set off and some great jam's to top out, three stars all the way
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward, powerful, painful... another classic gritstone HVS 5b, I love 'em.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awkward, powerful, painful... another classic gritstone HVS 5b, I love 'em.

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Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
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Votes cast 105
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 90
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Eliminator

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)