UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

18m.

Rockfax Description
A great route with a hard, but safe start and excellent jamming above. The dubious looking jammed tooth at half-height has resisted many years of efforts to wrench it from its socket. Finish up the right-hand crack for the full effect. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1953.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage *** HVS's , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Gutted to fall off after the initial hard moves. Still felt fairly sustained at the top. Great route though.
Show beta
βeta: Gutted to fall off after the initial hard moves. Still felt fairly sustained at the top. Great route though.
pc1983 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Wow, this is a hard mother flipping HVS. I made the first break and was too tired, likely from being out of shape, sleep deprived and slightly hungover.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wow, this is a hard mother flipping HVS. I made the first break and was too tired, likely from being out of shape, sleep deprived and slightly hungover.
spiderdan 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lower section protection worked well with Dmm I.m.p.s protecting my fall. Then laybacking and move up to chockstone- put a sling on it and then thought better of it and removed (feels dubious). Jamming technique would be v helpful higher up but I had to make do without! One full arm jam and will power over the mantel (make sure you have something good to protect final fall). Route took forever and felt epic to me! You know you have done it after.
Show beta
βeta: Lower section protection worked well with Dmm I.m.p.s protecting my fall. Then laybacking and move up to chockstone- put a sling on it and then thought better of it and removed (feels dubious). Jamming technique would be v helpful higher up but I had to make do without! One full arm jam and will power over the mantel (make sure you have something good to protect final fall). Route took forever and felt epic to me! You know you have done it after.
Duz Walker 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Slippy start quickly rewarded with a sit down rest. You could rid yourself of an entire racksworth of gear at any point onwards. Way up high hang of a right hand jam and survey the scenery before the final moves. Beached whale not compulsory. FRCS (Ed.)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Slippy start quickly rewarded with a sit down rest. You could rid yourself of an entire racksworth of gear at any point onwards. Way up high hang of a right hand jam and survey the scenery before the final moves. Beached whale not compulsory. FRCS (Ed.)
fenclimb 8 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I don't see what everyone's problem is with this route its great although hard nice thought provoking start to think about before you set off and some great jam's to top out, three stars all the way
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't see what everyone's problem is with this route its great although hard nice thought provoking start to think about before you set off and some great jam's to top out, three stars all the way
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward, powerful, painful... another classic gritstone HVS 5b, I love 'em.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awkward, powerful, painful... another classic gritstone HVS 5b, I love 'em.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 119
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 114
Votes cast 101
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Twisted Smile

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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