Rockfax Description
The central chimney is a bit of a struggle. Easy climbing leads to the constricted central portion. This is most easily climbed facing left (or maybe right?) before things ease off. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly 1915

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, 100 Stanage stars, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Chatsworth to Bamford, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Starred VDiffs, Stanage Chimney Tour.

BenedictIEP 15/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Leleanor93 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Mike Bayley 02/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with John Sellars, Kathy Burgess
Tommackie 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S
RussLuckhurst 07/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Circus 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Seren
Ben Bransby 04/Jun/17 Solo
dewiturton 03/Jun/17 Solo
jeremyftaylor 13/May/17 2nd

Fun to watch. Less fun to do

CRead 26/Apr/17 Solo O/S

Bit of a thrutch!

Fallow 22/Apr/17 TR
Smiffy91 02/Apr/17 Lead
with Colin Clayton
LouiseMcMahon 25/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with Jed Lath
Jonny Holmes 15/Nov/16 AltLd
Hidden 22/Oct/16 2nd
jk25002 22/Oct/16 Lead
with bro
MrFantastic 27/Sep/16 Solo O/S
Dan Wilcox 17/Sep/16 2nd
Kirill 11/Sep/16 2nd
with Igor, Ilia
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd
Mr Wild 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Kate Humphreys
ig248 11/Sep/16 Lead
with Kirill
Ilia Nadyrbayev 11/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/16 Lead
marklyon 23/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Chan Ny
Andrew Barker 09/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
ipblake 06/Aug/16 2nd

Easier to second than lead, as less gear helps in the chimney!

with simo
Lev 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Helen Ross, Adrian Ross, Emma Ross
Simoisfab 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Blakey
Hidden ?/Aug/16 TR
joetoad667 31/Jul/16 Lead
keitht 31/Jul/16 Solo
scoth 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with louie
pawel suhy 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A bit struggling in the chimney but good climb. Lead route no. 100!

with Tom C
w-watson 30/May/16 2nd
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead
scottyp 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Joe north
Psych ?/May/16 Lead O/S
stratandrew 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Nils Elgar
Subwaycups 09/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Backed off - rain!

Simoisfab 06/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Got a bit stuck in the chimney section. Tuns out it was good to drop down a bit and use feet on the LHS

with Blakey
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead
Markheighton 18/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
funkyvin1 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Not one for fatties... Hence why I could barely move in the chimney. Got there in the end though.

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S

Didn't fancy the Blurter traverse without a rope so continued up this.

Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd dog
Mikethe boar ?/Aug/15 Solo
DanChad 23/May/15 2nd O/S

Fun swimming up through the chimney.

Hidden 23/May/15 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 23/May/15 Lead
Manc88 01/May/15 Lead G/U

Final lead of the day - fatigue and green rock lead to slip (and nicely skinned shin) on the first slab. More focus second time over led to a tired-looking lead with excessive protection. 'Constricted' description of the central section is very fitting, and led to a frustrating 30 seconds of trying to squeeze myself (and moreover my gear and chalkbag) past the chimney!

Hoyes 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

In trainers!

Batt 26/Apr/15 2nd rpt

James forgot his rock boots!

irishrose 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 18/Apr/15 2nd
danieleaston 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Chris, Steve
Steve Bartle 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Flavio 07/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Canyak ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
humptydumpty 15/Nov/14 TR RP

drizzle and fog, had a go on lead but felt too wet to commit. Lots of fun on TR - had a couple of goes.

batterj2 12/Oct/14 Lead dnf
with Stacey Powney
batterj2 12/Oct/14 2nd β
with Stacey Powney
shell145 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Ross
Powney 12/Oct/14 Lead
tombushell 11/Oct/14 2nd
with Ed
AaronBosley 11/Oct/14 Solo
Sam Husband 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Hard for HVD.

Stroppy 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
peterhubbard 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Conrad
SDM 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Michael
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 23

tom_lewis89 09/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/14 Lead
Jon_dL 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Becky, Phil Jennings
BareBears 20/Jul/14 2nd

Lots of fun done in trainer's. True grit climbing.... made more interesting carrying the leaders boots up on the harness.

with Joe Cresswell
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
ben.phillips 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Done as part of the 100 stanage stars ticklist. 43 routes in 15 hours. Absolutely exhausting, far too hot, and midge hell, but what an achievement! We had great fun. Well done Ben and thanks! The nut on this route lifted out, slid down the rope and hit ben in the balls. (It was a Wallnut 7). Classic.

with Ben Philips
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
giuly 21/Jun/14 2nd
with Neil Shephard, Chris Saunders
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
dannyevos 14/Jun/14 -
with Rick Clapham
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead dog
TonyF 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mike Dowsett
Alex Hallam 19/May/14 Solo O/S

Quality traditional route.

petecallaghan 03/May/14 Solo
Easty14 27/Apr/14 Lead
tomaca12 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S
alexcollins123 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead
Theodorus2 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Nick_Merriman 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Retro Rowan 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tedswag 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Paul ablitt 30/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Paul ablitt 30/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Jackwd 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
MichaelGallimore 21/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Done as part of the first successful completion of the stanage winter challenge, in a time of 7hrs. Cheers for an amazing day James :)

Goodstuff 21/Dec/13 2nd O/S

Route 4 of the Stanage Winter challenge. Brilliant! Getting established in the upper rift is the crux.

with Mike Gallimore
Feneley 19/Oct/13 2nd

Very wet

Pete Pozman 08/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Went into the chimney to place some gear and couldn't get out again. Enormous udge fest got me up. Just like the old days. A fine climb. So much effort for only a VDiff?

with John Byrne
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead
dbm 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 01/Sep/13 2nd
with Rosie
mountaingoatgirl 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
ifletcher 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with tgeh
tgeh 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with imogene
Paul Hy 29/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Laura
Joe Jackson 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Carl Rich
TRFrost 18/Aug/13 Solo O/S
with D. Gledson, N. Price
mrmattwright 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

10 Routes in a session, Alps training.

with Adrian Fletcher
jason smeeth 14/Jul/13 2nd
with StuartP
StuartP 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 30/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Becky E 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with John Maxfield PCC, Marilyn
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jamie d 01/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead β
inspiration_needed 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

awkward chimney

with Mat Cooper
leeds_belle 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Tight - Marc couldn't second.

AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Jake Young 11/Nov/12 2nd
with Laura
lbarras 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with jake
lcullum7 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Jack Lee
Josh_West 27/Oct/12 2nd
Darrell Read 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Cerith Morgan (BUMC), Liz Dent (BUMC)
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead
jwa 14/Oct/12 2nd
with John Hillman
Hidden 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Mr Fuller 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 15/Sep/12 Solo O/S
phleppy 09/Sep/12 Lead


with Mark
RMG 21/Jul/12 2nd
with haydng
haydng 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Was probably facing the wrong way!

with RachelG
stev1e.wilso 27/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dylan
bigbadbob12345 27/May/12 2nd
Hidden 16/May/12 Solo O/S
nogoodgrice 28/Apr/12 2nd
with Neil Casson
Hidden 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Irn Bruce 15/Apr/12 2nd
dsh 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
RichyBOYY 01/Apr/12 Lead
RyanOsborne 25/Mar/12 2nd
kozzi 11/Mar/12 Lead
John-Henry 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 07/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Jonny Raines 31/Oct/11 2nd O/S
catty_9 30/Oct/11 Lead

wet to start then sunny but windy

with Emily Logie
Becky H 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
speedymccreedy 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ElvisLeg 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
AndyPagett 22/Oct/11 Lead
with Rich Saunders, John Buckle, Adam Mitchell
mbradberry2008 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
flyinfrenchy 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 15/Oct/11 2nd
Palmer 02/Oct/11 Lead
Blurgy319 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Rimon Than
Hidden 21/May/11 Solo O/S
kfowler141 26/Apr/11 Lead
Reds 25/Apr/11 2nd rpt
althesin 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Reds
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
ollylegg 18/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
cmars89 15/Apr/11 Lead
with crpw
crpw 15/Apr/11 2nd
Andrew Cross 23/Jan/11 2nd dog
with Tadams
Tadams 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cross
SteveHi 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Ashley Clark
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
gethin_allen 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Jimbo C
Jimbo C 06/Nov/10 2nd
with Gethin
DRIFTER_S14 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Dave Pellatt 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice, bit of a squeeze getting in! Quite juggy.

with Sophie Foxen
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Solo
Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Ron 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Dawn
Hidden 08/Sep/10 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Solo O/S
sjblake 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

All good until I got into the chimney: dark, damp, horrible and tight - really tight. Got my fat ass wedged in the chimney, but shuffling got me through it - just.

Hidden 05/Jul/10 Solo O/S
payeo20 03/Jul/10 2nd
richyclimb 03/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
AsleepOnBelay 19/Jun/10 2nd

An enjoyable classic, awkward thrutchy fun.

with Sarah Davis
Ian Archer 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S


with Ben Thompson
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead
JonF 01/May/10 2nd
colin milton 16/Apr/10 Solo
AndyPagett 10/Apr/10 2nd
with Adam Mitchell
Sophie Nunn 07/Nov/09 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead
yellowjersey 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/09 2nd β
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead
Luke Goddard 22/Aug/09 2nd
BennoC 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Tight squeeze

with Buz
madaxeman 02/Jun/09 Lead

sweartastic, i think they heard me on Burbage!

markbenton 02/Jun/09 Lead
with Trevor
Hidden 02/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Creep_pea 25/May/09 Lead O/S
with Tim
Tasermiut 23/May/09 2nd O/S
lyneux 23/May/09 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 10/May/09 2nd O/S
stickwoman ?/May/09 2nd
with charles jefferson, nathan hall
Jamboli ?/Apr/09 Lead dnf
howlingbaboon 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Fitzhugh & Ady
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
wahniel 30/Oct/08 2nd O/S

in icy rain.

with Stewart McConnell
Hidden 12/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Justinho 20/Sep/08 TR O/S
with Mat White
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
poofish 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Gary
gazbonutter 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Brown 16/Aug/08 Solo O/S
tobydunford 15/Aug/08 Solo O/S
DJayB 10/Aug/08 Solo O/S
Simon Caldwell 10/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Carmen
chris2451 10/Aug/08 Solo rpt
RCrockford 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mike A
1918hasti 23/May/08 Solo
Hidden 06/May/08 Solo rpt
John Eley ?/May/08 Lead O/S
mills85 23/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Peter
chadrads 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with mills85
Hidden ??/2008 -
greatowl ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Bex_M 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Ewan Buckingham
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead
Neil Pacey 28/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 17/Jun/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Thomas L 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S

My second outdoor lead climb :)

with Chris Britton
Hidden 22/May/07 Lead
Hedley 22/May/07 2nd O/S
vvanhinsbergh 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Awesome route which requires a lot of wriggling good HVD

with Matt Whitfield & Mike Swinn
a_simecek 22/Apr/07 2nd
with Alex Dyhouse
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Jim Vach 11/Apr/07 Solo O/S
JonBray 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
scarybiker 01/Apr/07 2nd
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Pelleas 20/Oct/06 Lead

Completed after Adrian fell off it.

with Chris
SuperstarDJ 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S

I was starting to panic when I got wedged in the bottom of the overhanging chimney bit but some good thrutching and wiggling got me far enough to start climbing again. This was Phil's first outdoor route - not the easiest! Sorry Phil!

with Phil Storer
Charlie Williams 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S

I just remembered why I don't do HVD.

with Chris Fitzpatrick
Browny 15/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/06 2nd O/S
tree.d 09/Sep/06 -
with G Taylor
Mutl3y 13/Aug/06 Lead
with Clog
Clog 13/Aug/06 2nd
with Mutl3y
Hidden 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/06 TR
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd
2RoyalAnglian ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with mark ansty
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
fizzy_elephant ?/Oct/05 Solo
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Solo
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 07/Aug/05 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
JoW 06/Jun/05 Lead

A few bushes along the way!

Nicos 08/Apr/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Different Steve ?/Apr/05 Solo
Somerset swede basher 02/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Steven Gibbs
kitch22 01/Sep/04 2nd
with Daniel Metcalfe
Simon Caldwell 15/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Tracy
Chris Davids 11/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Dad
Allan Young 31/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Megan Stanley
MaccMark 13/Jun/04 2nd
with Val Young
Hidden 02/May/04 Lead O/S
Cornish Merlin 24/Apr/04 2nd
victim of mathematics 24/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/03 -
Laramadness 29/Mar/03 2nd β
Hidden 27/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ?/May/00 Lead
kevtoo04 ??/2000 Solo

narrow in places, shoulder jamming essential...

Raggar ??/2000 Lead
Rock Fairy ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
bigphil 15/Mar/98 Solo
Roget 28/Sep/97 Solo O/S
with jon
Hidden 03/May/97 Lead
craig h 10/Aug/96 Solo O/S
Chris Ellis 08/Oct/95 Lead
with David Mirfin
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
epic ed 20/Jun/92 Lead dog

Completely overgrown at top.

with Claire M
Raggar 23/Oct/88 2nd
with Steve B
Iain Thow 05/Jun/88 Solo
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
mark-abz 31/May/87 Solo
Tom V ??/1985 -
tapley 08/Jul/83 Solo
Hidden 31/Aug/81 Solo
Dave Musgrove 29/Jul/81 -
with Kim Greenald
babymoac 24/Jan/81 Solo
Nigel Bond 13/Feb/77 Solo
with Dave Jolliffe
rogerskews ??/1975 -
Hidden 13/May/67 Solo
mikej 13/Sep/66 Solo
with Brian Lefevre, John Lee
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High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set