UKC

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Ticklists: Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 03/Feb -
Jamie Skelton 02/Feb AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
peter.herd 02/Feb AltLd
with Kevin Hall
cacheson 11/Jan Lead dnf

Second pitch would have been great fun in rock shoes, so we abbed off.

with Jake
Hidden 07/Jan AltLd O/S
davkeo 07/Jan AltLd O/S

A classic route in a beautiful & remote location. Doesn't get much better. Done in 7 pitches as Tim linked p3+4. Met one other team headed for Fuselage wall, otherwise we had the place to ourselfs. Memorable.

Misha 06/Jan AltLd O/S

Good route, good weather, fairly long day. Drove up on Friday evening, got to the car park shortly after midnight. Set off at 7.20am and back 15 hours later. Walk in was fine, started the route about 3 hours after setting off. I kick off up a cruddy approach pitch just to get to the first guide book pitch. Took a while as there were a few tenuous tech 6 moves on so-so gear. Mark did most of the fun diagonal ramp with a bit of moving together to Broad Terrace (V 5). The guide book description for the next two pitches isn't great. Another team was just ahead, taking a line on the left. I opted for a line further right, which was good fun and led to easy ground in one long pitch (V 6), probably not the guide book line though. Moved together up the easy ground. Had to wait for an hour and a bit for the other team on the crux while watching daylight fade away... Had to do the rest by head torch but it wasn't really an issue. Mark did the 20m pitch up to the evil chimney (techy V 6). I then tussled up the chimney - an exhausting experience! Impossible (for me) to get gear in at the back of the chimney as it's too narrow but no danger of falling out either... Ungradeable! Belayed on the ledge above so I could pull the sacks up (no way you can do the chimney with a sack on!) and had to wait for the other team anyway. I then led the rest of the pitch - fun airy climbing on hero hooks and small feet (VI 6). Mark finished our right up what we think was the guide book finishing pitch - a few pulls to easier ground (IV 5). Topped out at 8.30pm, 10 hours after starting, including waiting for the other team. Descent was on decent snow most of the way so fairly quick. Originally thought about doing Fight or Flight the next day but weren't keen enough in the end given the long drive back so just did Stirling Bomber in Sneachda.

robertmichaellovell 16/Jan/16 AltLd

Quality route on a quality mountain

with Fiona
graeme gatherer 09/Jan/16 -

Very alpine. Truly memorable. The descent down frozen scree was torture!

with Steve Elliot
lanky ?/Jan/16 AltLd

mike tried to take a short cut in the middle, ended up on some steep ground that was shorter but not quicker. mike did the crux, I did pitches with side

with Mike
Hidden ??/2016 -
hamish2016 14/Dec/15 AltLd
with pete graham, Tom Ripley
Pete Graham ?/Dec/15 -
malx ??/2015 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull 02/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with rich howells
thebigeasy 02/Mar/14 -

Great route which took a bit of clearing on the way. Felt very wintery. Hopefully the thaw coming doesn't clear all the snow/ice.

with JT
Hidden 17/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
Andrew Wilson 17/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with David Paul
Rob Pitt 05/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Miles, Lee Roberts
robgixer 30/Jan/14 AltLd
masa-alpin 30/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Rob lead P1 and 2 to Broad Terrace, we soloed for 20 metres, then Steve lead P3 and 4 (with a bit of moving-together) to the bottom of the top tier, Masa lead P5 (55m) with (unintentionally) a variation groove (VII, 8 on its own; first ascent; see for the line http://www.flickr.com/photos/alpiniste/12242810104/in/set-72157640366572375 ) above the infamous chimney to the same belay ledge, Rob lead the last pitch (40m). 3 parties from the BMC International Meet were behind us, waiting Masa to finish the crux pitch in off-route, which took over 2 hours, mostly at the off-route (aka new variation) part... The variation groove is nails (a touch easier for the talls), though reasonably well protected where it matters. The fact I dropped one of my axes right after I had made the crux hooking did quite a bit of spices to the experience, too, while still a tech 5/6 section was left, as it turned out. My hardest winter-climb ever. And an absolutely gorgeous and perfect day.

with Steve T, robgixer
Hidden 30/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
davesykes 30/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Great day marred only by the bottleneck at the bottleneck. A Japanese climber climbed a direct but slow way thru the roof above the belay leaving his axe behind in the process. Just enough light for the stiff little flake wall/traverse after the chimney pitch.

with Mirko Breckner
Hidden 29/Jan/14 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Paul Figg 16/Mar/13 AltLd

Climbed with Lawrence Monckton.Fantastic mountain experience.

with Lawrence Monckton
el cholo 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with carlos
Hidden 20/Jan/13 AltLd rpt
S Lynch 20/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul Prentice
michael83 20/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Mark020
Hidden 19/Jan/13 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ??/2012 AltLd O/S

The date I have put is wrong. Many years ago now. A brilliant day out culminating in moonlit bumsliding all the way down to the path.

with Simon Yearsley, Andy Brown
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
SWalls 21/Feb/11 AltLd
with Alex Moran
James Gordon ?/Feb/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Searle ?/Mar/10 AltLd
with gav
Hidden 28/Feb/10 AltLd dog
andyinglis 19/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
Neil Adams 19/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
sgl 18/Feb/10 AltLd
with Jess
Hidden 17/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Simon Yearsley 17/Feb/10 AltLd

Audrey's first Scottish mixed action.... Fun!

with Audrey Garipay
mux ??/2007 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day, blue sky hardly any wind and a beer handed to me when I got to the car. Top notch.

with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
NeilGriffiths 25/Feb/06 AltLd

Memborable day out. Happy boys.

with Dave Garry, frost
frost ?/Mar/04 AltLd
with D Garry N Griffiths
Hidden ?/Apr/99 AltLd
innes ??/1998 AltLd
phardman 30/Mar/96 AltLd O/S
with Jon Bibby
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Mar/96 AltLd O/S

Superb Day in beautiful Coire.

with Pete Benson
Hidden ?/Mar/92 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/87 AltLd
Jah ?/Mar/84 AltLd

A big alpine feel to this route.

with Phil butler, Mick fowler
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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 19
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set