18m.

Rockfax Description
A classic Stanage E4 giving a bold outing. From the bottom right-hand corner of the face, climb a tiny groove to a poor rest. Swing left and pull up with difficulty (a small cam in the base of the flake is hard to place) then make the crucial layback/stretch to reach the deep horizontal break. Move right and use a good pocket to gain the easier final wall. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Good E4s, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, 50 of the Best, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, On Peak Rock, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ian Milward 3 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I seem to remember getting a couple of good small rocks, rather than a small friend, in the bottom of the flake when I did it, although it's a fair few years ago now!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I seem to remember getting a couple of good small rocks, rather than a small friend, in the bottom of the flake when I did it, although it's a fair few years ago now!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dom94 17 Aug TR Tried this a few years ago on lead and found it a bit too sketch back then, set up a top rope for crypt trip and had a go on this too
Tried this a few years ago on lead and found it a bit too sketch back then, set up a top rope for crypt trip and had a go on this too
Hidden 17 Aug TR dnf
Patrick Hill 25 May Lead O/S
with Scottish Nick
with Scottish Nick
henry james 24 May TR couldn't figure out the first move (might've been too far left) but managed the rest fine!
couldn't figure out the first move (might've been too far left) but managed the rest fine!
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
clanger ?? 2nd
mrblack ?? -
td72 20 Oct, 2018 Lead G/U
with bryan61
with bryan61
bryan61 20 Oct, 2018 2nd dog
with td72
with td72
janegallwey 30 Sep, 2018 TR
Hidden 30 Sep, 2018 TR
Hidden 20 Jun, 2018 TR dog
beni 12 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
Annika Marie 12 Nov, 2017 2nd dog
with beni
with beni
WB 5 Nov, 2017 Lead β Watched a few people top rope before i lead it. They made it look a lot easier than it felt
with Anna
Watched a few people top rope before i lead it. They made it look a lot easier than it felt
with Anna
Dave Turnbull, BMC 20 Aug, 2017 TR TR first go today, never got round to getting on this Extreme Rock tick, wisely perhaps, felt hard (and bold) from cold.
TR first go today, never got round to getting on this Extreme Rock tick, wisely perhaps, felt hard (and bold) from cold.
Martin Bagshaw 24 Jun, 2017 TR RP
with Tom Hudson
with Tom Hudson
Hidden 2 Nov, 2016 Lead
ferdia 17 Oct, 2016 2nd
Andy Moles 17 Oct, 2016 Lead Not in great style, pre-placed the lower gear then struggled to get going and lowered off it a couple of times. Enjoyed my successful attempt though.
with ferdia
Not in great style, pre-placed the lower gear then struggled to get going and lowered off it a couple of times. Enjoyed my successful attempt though.
with ferdia
Fraser13 25 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 TR O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 2nd
Dale Comley 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Great route, made a bit of a meal of the top having forgotten where to go but felt steady
Great route, made a bit of a meal of the top having forgotten where to go but felt steady
Hidden ??, 2016 2nd
James Thacker ??, 2016 -
Nick Russell 3 Oct, 2015 Lead dnf Took a tumble from the start - bruised heel and bum. Should have called it a day there but persisted. Got higher next time, fiddled in the unconvincing wires, placed the reachy cam, rocked up, but ran out of juice for the big move to the break. I'll be back.
Took a tumble from the start - bruised heel and bum. Should have called it a day there but persisted. Got higher next time, fiddled in the unconvincing wires, placed the reachy cam, rocked up, but ran out of juice for the big move to the break. I'll be back.
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 TR dog
Neal Jobling 2 Aug, 2015 TR dog
with Thomas, Tracy
with Thomas, Tracy
Antonio Ferra ?Jul, 2015 2nd dog
with gavin
with gavin
Hidden 23 May, 2015 2nd dog
sparkass 16 May, 2015 Lead RP An amazing route, an absolute stonker at E4. So glad I ditched the ego for headpoint. Never above 5c but the gear is dubious and tricky to place.
with Rob Lovatt
An amazing route, an absolute stonker at E4. So glad I ditched the ego for headpoint. Never above 5c but the gear is dubious and tricky to place.
with Rob Lovatt
Misha 26 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf Should auld acquaintances be forgot and never brought to mind? Don't think so, will have to get back on this once I've got more skills, slopeyholdability and bigger balls! Hard from the word go. Good red BD micro cam in the first placement, grey BD micro cam above which seemed to hold, followed by a crucial golden DMM offset which seemed good and held when I slipped off downclimbing but lifted out very easily on abseil... It was pretty shallow so didn't really want to test it and anyway the moves to the good flake hold looked nails. Hung around on the slopey handholds for ages shuffling back and forth but couldn't really figure it out at 5c and didn't want to commit so bailed. Went up the Dalesman instead, which was pretty good but a bit pumpy after all of the above. Rach seconded the Dalesman so abbed for the gear in Old Friends.
Should auld acquaintances be forgot and never brought to mind? Don't think so, will have to get back on this once I've got more skills, slopeyholdability and bigger balls! Hard from the word go. Good red BD micro cam in the first placement, grey BD micro cam above which seemed to hold, followed by a crucial golden DMM offset which seemed good and held when I slipped off downclimbing but lifted out very easily on abseil... It was pretty shallow so didn't really want to test it and anyway the moves to the good flake hold looked nails. Hung around on the slopey handholds for ages shuffling back and forth but couldn't really figure it out at 5c and didn't want to commit so bailed. Went up the Dalesman instead, which was pretty good but a bit pumpy after all of the above. Rach seconded the Dalesman so abbed for the gear in Old Friends.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 18 Apr, 2015 Lead RP Tough cookie but absolutely cracking route! Didn't use RPs, just a WC Zero 5 in the start of the flake and size 1 cam next to the big reach.
with Olk
Tough cookie but absolutely cracking route! Didn't use RPs, just a WC Zero 5 in the start of the flake and size 1 cam next to the big reach.
with Olk
hamer89 1 Feb, 2015 Lead RP
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Canyak ??, 2015 -
Matt Cooke 30 Nov, 2014 Lead G/U
dswansonlow 11 Oct, 2014 2nd rpt
Dan Geh 11 Oct, 2014 TR RP
with Freshers
with Freshers
dannyboy83 11 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Lovely, pumpy climbing.
Lovely, pumpy climbing.
rurp 2 Sep, 2014 TR RP Layback fine. Move to get the layback was desperate. Fell a few times here. Need stronger fingers on the small holds moving left
Layback fine. Move to get the layback was desperate. Fell a few times here. Need stronger fingers on the small holds moving left
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14 Jun, 2014 Lead dnf Backed off pretty early, I'll be returning with a mat :o)
Backed off pretty early, I'll be returning with a mat :o)
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 2nd
barni 19 Nov, 2013 Lead rpt
with Ami
with Ami
bwestwood 16 Nov, 2013 2nd
pie_eater_pete 16 Nov, 2013 Lead β
with bwestwood
with bwestwood
w.pettet-smith 30 Oct, 2013 - wanted to do for a while. not dissapointed!
with ben
wanted to do for a while. not dissapointed!
with ben
nathanlee 15 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S Great lunge off the flake, didnt bother with the rp's.
Great lunge off the flake, didnt bother with the rp's.
Matt Harle 10 Nov, 2012 Lead dnf
Zoomer 8 Oct, 2012 TR dog Honking! Only top roped but no intention of leading it, 6a climbing and had to yank on the rope a couple of times!
with A Student
Honking! Only top roped but no intention of leading it, 6a climbing and had to yank on the rope a couple of times!
with A Student
scott mayled 8 Oct, 2012 TR dog Top roped would never lead this, but good for the forearms. OOOCCHH!!cheers Zoomer!!
Top roped would never lead this, but good for the forearms. OOOCCHH!!cheers Zoomer!!
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden 26 May, 2012 TR β
jamiev 21 Apr, 2012 TR RP 2nd go on TR. Beautiful.
with Tom Lewis
2nd go on TR. Beautiful.
with Tom Lewis
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Bob ??, 2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2012 Lead O/S
with Andrea Morgan
with Andrea Morgan
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
phil64 23 Oct, 2011 2nd rpt
with nick gillett
with nick gillett
J.Wells 22 Oct, 2011 Lead RP Fell off at the flake, the cam ripped and hit the ground on rope stretch. Thought it was totally nails then realised I'd missed a hold when I went to strip the gear, gutted to have missed OS. Great route all the same!
Fell off at the flake, the cam ripped and hit the ground on rope stretch. Thought it was totally nails then realised I'd missed a hold when I went to strip the gear, gutted to have missed OS. Great route all the same!
Adam Booth 19 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
Adam Booth 19 Aug, 2011 TR RP
ChrisBrooke 18 Jun, 2011 TR
with Duncan Bell
with Duncan Bell
Hannes B 24 May, 2011 2nd .. after having a banana whilst hanging on the flake still not gave enough juice and bigger balls
with Mike, Tom
.. after having a banana whilst hanging on the flake still not gave enough juice and bigger balls
with Mike, Tom
daviesxxx ??, 2011 -
Ben C ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
highlux 12 Dec, 2010 Lead RP not without whipping off first onto a purple metolius... glad to tick it on the redpoint.
not without whipping off first onto a purple metolius... glad to tick it on the redpoint.
searla 9 Oct, 2010 TR dog
dswansonlow 9 Oct, 2010 TR dog
with sarp
with sarp
FlorianCastagne 23 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Don't think, just climb
Don't think, just climb
Rowansb 28 May, 2010 Lead O/S BOLD! The cam in the flake didn't inspire much confidence, especially since that was the only sketchy piece protecting me from a groundfall...
with Ewan
BOLD! The cam in the flake didn't inspire much confidence, especially since that was the only sketchy piece protecting me from a groundfall...
with Ewan
hamish2016 13 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Alex
with Alex
Hidden 4 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
dominic lee 7 Mar, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
stevebarratt ??, 2010 Lead β On robs gear
with Rob Bryniarski
On robs gear
with Rob Bryniarski
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Ewano ??, 2010 TR
dswansonlow 17 Oct, 2009 TR dog
with sarp
with sarp
JonBrown 17 Oct, 2009 TR dog
Neil McA 5 Apr, 2009 TR rpt
with Edward de la Bilierre
with Edward de la Bilierre
Ally Smith 7 Mar, 2009 Lead dnf Reversed as couldn't get any RP's to stick
with EmilyG
Reversed as couldn't get any RP's to stick
with EmilyG
Ed Booth ??, 2009 Lead O/S
RossG123 ??, 2009 2nd
koopa ??, 2009 TR
Franco Cookson ??, 2009 Lead O/S E3 5c? 5b solo and then you poke in the cam with a finger which protects the crux quite nicely. Not sure where E4 comes into it.
E3 5c? 5b solo and then you poke in the cam with a finger which protects the crux quite nicely. Not sure where E4 comes into it.
Luke Brooks 30 Nov, 2008 Lead β Attempted two days ago, got to the break, so pumped I couldn't get past the pocket. Went like a dream today,
Attempted two days ago, got to the break, so pumped I couldn't get past the pocket. Went like a dream today,
Hidden 9 Nov, 2008 TR O/S
Toby Dunn ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
with Tom Randall
The old James turnbull ?May, 2008 Lead
with nick m
with nick m
OffshoreAndy 23 Feb, 2008 2nd
with Skell
with Skell
Skell 23 Feb, 2008 Lead RP
with Andy
with Andy
JulesV ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 31 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S 'this ain't gonna be no formality....' sure enough, it wasn't. If the cam in the flake holds then hard E4 6a. If not it's more like E5. Had little faith in the gear despite taking a while trying to get it right so felt like a solo. Brilliant line and moves either way.
with Toby, Barrows, Mason
'this ain't gonna be no formality....' sure enough, it wasn't. If the cam in the flake holds then hard E4 6a. If not it's more like E5. Had little faith in the gear despite taking a while trying to get it right so felt like a solo. Brilliant line and moves either way.
with Toby, Barrows, Mason
Hidden 31 Oct, 2007 Lead β
v.jester 8 Aug, 2007 2nd
with Mysak
with Mysak
dan gibson 15 Jun, 2006 Lead RP
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
redjerry ?Apr, 2006 TR O/S
Boy ??, 2006 -
bronsonite 27 Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
with Alex Cannon
Hidden 19 Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
Brown 29 Oct, 2005 Lead RP
with Paul
with Paul
Skinner - The Lock Climbing Wall 9 Sep, 2005 TR
with nick
with nick
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Neil McA 27 Nov, 2004 Solo O/S
Jon Read ??, 2004 Lead rpt Year a guess.
with John Wilson
Year a guess.
with John Wilson
Gus 17 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S Very hot day, greasy as sin. First time I'd let out a power scream on a route. been doing it ever since!
Very hot day, greasy as sin. First time I'd let out a power scream on a route. been doing it ever since!
Neil McA 29 May, 2003 2nd rpt
with martin veale, martin cooper
with martin veale, martin cooper
Mark Riley ?Apr, 2003 Lead β
with Stuart Greenall
with Stuart Greenall
martroberts 14 Apr, 2002 TR RP Didn't feel like leading it at the time. Either before the toprope or after!
Didn't feel like leading it at the time. Either before the toprope or after!
Hidden 3 Apr, 2002 TR
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24 Mar, 2002 Lead O/S
with Joe le Sage
with Joe le Sage
Ben Bransby 22 Sep, 2001 Solo
goi.ashmore 15 Aug, 2000 Lead β
with Matt Hirst
with Matt Hirst
daviesxxx ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Ian Jones ??, 2000 Lead RP 1 yo yo on a very cold day. Got good runners.
with John Kirk
1 yo yo on a very cold day. Got good runners.
with John Kirk
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
pipof747 ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
GeoffG 9 May, 1999 2nd
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
D Tempest ??, 1999 Lead O/S Not sure of the year
with Rick
Not sure of the year
with Rick
Gordon Stainforth 16 May, 1998 2nd Best and hardest route I've ever done on grit.
with David BA Jones, Carrie Jones, Steve Dean
Best and hardest route I've ever done on grit.
with David BA Jones, Carrie Jones, Steve Dean
sadams 26 Oct, 1997 2nd
with Hugh Cottom
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden 12 Oct, 1997 2nd
Roget 28 Sep, 1997 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Chris the Tall ?Aug, 1997 TR dog
with Bill G
with Bill G
steveb2006 20 Jun, 1995 TR Top rope after a frightening experience recently trying to lead it
Top rope after a frightening experience recently trying to lead it
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
andybirtwistle 14 May, 1994 Solo rpt Led then soloed.
Led then soloed.
crossleysm ??, 1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 1993 TR
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Hidden 21 Jul, 1992 Lead β
Rob Davies 15 Sep, 1991 TR dog Fumbled long reach from groove to break 1st go by getting hands wrong way round
Fumbled long reach from groove to break 1st go by getting hands wrong way round
Hidden 14 Sep, 1990 TR
mark-abz 21 May, 1990 TR
with Phill R
with Phill R
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1990 Lead O/S No idea what date I did it but Mandy remembers seconding it after I lead it.
No idea what date I did it but Mandy remembers seconding it after I lead it.
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Billg 19 Sep, 1989 Lead O/S
with Alan Doig
with Alan Doig
Hidden ?Jun, 1989 -
steveb2006 30 Oct, 1988 Lead dnf A frightening attempt as the runners on right look as though they will lift out when pulled from left. Jibber back right and lower off. Also fail on Impossible Slab
with Simon Mee
A frightening attempt as the runners on right look as though they will lift out when pulled from left. Jibber back right and lower off. Also fail on Impossible Slab
with Simon Mee
David Slater ?Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
with Simon Tempest
with Simon Tempest
Brian Wilderspin 2 Apr, 1988 2nd dnf To hard for me :(
with Perric Crellin
To hard for me :(
with Perric Crellin
UKB Shark ??, 1988 Lead O/S Think with John Myers or Phill Dickens
Think with John Myers or Phill Dickens
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Bruce Kerr 21 Oct, 1986 Lead
with Sandra Graham
with Sandra Graham
Neil McA 4 Sep, 1986 Lead O/S
with Martin Wilson, Tom Lewis
with Martin Wilson, Tom Lewis
Mike Owen 11 Oct, 1985 Lead O/S
with Graham Lipp
with Graham Lipp
sadams 4 May, 1985 Lead rpt
with John Dunne
with John Dunne
Hammy 30 Aug, 1984 TR
Dave Musgrove 27 Jun, 1984 Lead β
with Paul Dawson
with Paul Dawson
Andy Nicholson ?May, 1984 2nd O/S
with Spike
with Spike
Steve Lewis 29 May, 1982 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
with Alun Richardson
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??, 1980 Lead
petemeads ?Jul, 1978 Lead Reached the layback flake but couldn't stretch to the next break or reverse the traverse - had to jump off onto the tiny stopper protection (which held). Second time made a proper job of it, making one move up the flake before reaching. One of the best routes on gritstone for my money.
with Steve Taylor
Reached the layback flake but couldn't stretch to the next break or reverse the traverse - had to jump off onto the tiny stopper protection (which held). Second time made a proper job of it, making one move up the flake before reaching. One of the best routes on gritstone for my money.
with Steve Taylor
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 45
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set