UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
The beckoning break gives a good pump with runners galore. © Rockfax

FA. Roger Greatrick 1983.

Ticklists

Stanage HVS Challenge , Jem's Time in the Peaks , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peak Traverses

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris Craggs 5 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: How about Led A Dance at True North? Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How about Led A Dance at True North? Chris
Paul Tomo 5 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a very good route to test your staying power and getting a good pump on. The footholds are a little hard to find if you are on the short side which makes you work harder to stay on. Loads of gear if you can hang on for long enough, it would be nice to find a route like this but just a little longer...Paul Tomo..Let me know if you find one..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a very good route to test your staying power and getting a good pump on. The footholds are a little hard to find if you are on the short side which makes you work harder to stay on. Loads of gear if you can hang on for long enough, it would be nice to find a route like this but just a little longer...Paul Tomo..Let me know if you find one..
Si dH 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I got pumped absolutely solid on this and had to lower off within about 6 feet of the end. You have to work harder for both gear and holds than Id expected, there are very few "solid jams" and at 5ft11 there werent any footholds past about a 1/4 of th eway along. Very pumpy sloper dangling. Proper HVS, certainly, and I would say similar to Right Unconq in having no very hard moves (dont agree with 5b votes) but being extremely strenuous. Si
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I got pumped absolutely solid on this and had to lower off within about 6 feet of the end. You have to work harder for both gear and holds than Id expected, there are very few "solid jams" and at 5ft11 there werent any footholds past about a 1/4 of th eway along. Very pumpy sloper dangling. Proper HVS, certainly, and I would say similar to Right Unconq in having no very hard moves (dont agree with 5b votes) but being extremely strenuous. Si
Stone Muppet 4 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seems to me that it's ok-ish HVS for the tall, but probably hard as nails for the short who can't reach half of the footholds?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems to me that it's ok-ish HVS for the tall, but probably hard as nails for the short who can't reach half of the footholds?

Logged Ascents

379 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 66
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Congo Corner

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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