UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
The zig-zag cracks give a great little route. © Rockfax

FA. G.R.Fiddles, A.T.Braddock 1959.

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User Date Notes
Jonathan Hall 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Top out is v dirty still, needs digging out
βeta?
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βeta: Top out is v dirty still, needs digging out
astrange 13 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected and nice climbing. Top out not so nice - very dirty!
βeta?
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βeta: Well protected and nice climbing. Top out not so nice - very dirty!
smudge 10 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Top of the crag is f@*d. I’d heard about it happening a number of years ago, but now you have to top out over a tonne of loose earth (or mud after the rain). Shame because the route is good. I’ll help cleaning the crag but it needs to be done thoughtfully.
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βeta: Top of the crag is f@&#*d. I’d heard about it happening a number of years ago, but now you have to top out over a tonne of loose earth (or mud after the rain). Shame because the route is good. I’ll help cleaning the crag but it needs to be done thoughtfully.
Craig Samuels 17 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Early season a lot of dirt on some of the holds. Needs more traffic to tidy the route up. Top also very loose soil and vegetation. Red ants still present!
βeta?
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βeta: Early season a lot of dirt on some of the holds. Needs more traffic to tidy the route up. Top also very loose soil and vegetation. Red ants still present!
Dave Garnett 30 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very dirty top-out at the moment.
βeta?
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βeta: Very dirty top-out at the moment.
Rob M 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be gentile with the bat's, they keep the midges down! ;) seriously though they're always there, in the horizontal usually. I keep off this route now (done it twice). So many other routes at this cliff are neglected & they're of no less quality than this one.
βeta?
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βeta: Be gentile with the bat's, they keep the midges down! ;) seriously though they're always there, in the horizontal usually. I keep off this route now (done it twice). So many other routes at this cliff are neglected & they're of no less quality than this one.
greedo 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Look out for bats sleeping In the bigger crack!. Don't disturb them, remember how cranky you feel when woken up????
βeta?
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βeta: Look out for bats sleeping In the bigger crack!. Don't disturb them, remember how cranky you feel when woken up????
Rob Davies 12 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There are bolt anchors above the muddy ledge. Assuming they don't get chopped, it's best to use these a belay then abseil, as using a lower-off drags the ropes through loads of mud.
βeta?
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βeta: There are bolt anchors above the muddy ledge. Assuming they don't get chopped, it's best to use these a belay then abseil, as using a lower-off drags the ropes through loads of mud.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent. The Tree root in the belay is dead although it still feels solid enough but won’t be for much longer. Options at descent without it are not pleasant. Hack up the loose rocky grass to a big tree is maybe the best option.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent. The Tree root in the belay is dead although it still feels solid enough but won’t be for much longer. Options at descent without it are not pleasant. Hack up the loose rocky grass to a big tree is maybe the best option.
Fidget 14 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Bats still seemed to be there this week too! I enjoyed this although got pumped which I didn't expect. The top out was the scariest bit as the grass was so dry! Didn't find there to be much (any) polish at all after the first couple of moves, I even smeared quite happily (two things I normally avoid - polish and smearing).
βeta?
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βeta: Bats still seemed to be there this week too! I enjoyed this although got pumped which I didn't expect. The top out was the scariest bit as the grass was so dry! Didn't find there to be much (any) polish at all after the first couple of moves, I even smeared quite happily (two things I normally avoid - polish and smearing).
Skyfall 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Thought this was a really nice route and towards upper end of VS, though mostly due to the polish. And judging by the smell and squeaking coming from the crack higher up, the bats are still in situ.
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βeta: Thought this was a really nice route and towards upper end of VS, though mostly due to the polish. And judging by the smell and squeaking coming from the crack higher up, the bats are still in situ.
Chris the Tall 2 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The bats are deep in the upper crack and can easily be avoided. Plus they don't bite, unlike the ants at the top.
βeta?
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βeta: The bats are deep in the upper crack and can easily be avoided. Plus they don't bite, unlike the ants at the top.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 94
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 91
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pearly Gates

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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