UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
The best route in the quarry follows the fine arete. Make tricky starting moves past some unconvincing wires/micro cams to gain the break. Finish more easily up the arete to the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
E1 5b in the BMC guide

FA. G.R.Fiddles, A.T.Braddock 1959.

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User Date Notes
Rob M 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 & first anything above VS for that matter. I top roped it afew times, the last of which without moving my ascender from 2m from the floor - a very silly idea as it made no difference, I still had to come back & lead it to say I'd done it right. Afew guys from down Stoke way at the crag on the day kindly belayed me. As far as the route goes, it's a one move 5a/ 5b wonder & if you place a number 4 wire into the back of the crack, turn it 90deg & pul it forward you're safe on the crux. Beyond that, there is potential for a ground fall but it's hard 4c from the crux onward in my opinion. I love this climb, I'm suprised mitre cracks sees so many ascents yet this sees so few but then it's easy for me to love it, I knew it intricately when I lead it!... I'll say with my hand on my heart, it's a low E1 with that wire & just for example, I'd happily lead this again over leading antidigestant which last time I looked only gets HVS bizarrely!
 
Show beta
βeta: My first E1 & first anything above VS for that matter. I top roped it afew times, the last of which without moving my ascender from 2m from the floor - a very silly idea as it made no difference, I still had to come back & lead it to say I'd done it right. Afew guys from down Stoke way at the crag on the day kindly belayed me. As far as the route goes, it's a one move 5a/ 5b wonder & if you place a number 4 wire into the back of the crack, turn it 90deg & pul it forward you're safe on the crux. Beyond that, there is potential for a ground fall but it's hard 4c from the crux onward in my opinion. I love this climb, I'm suprised mitre cracks sees so many ascents yet this sees so few but then it's easy for me to love it, I knew it intricately when I lead it!... I'll say with my hand on my heart, it's a low E1 with that wire & just for example, I'd happily lead this again over leading antidigestant which last time I looked only gets HVS bizarrely!
msjhes2 2 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Descent off the top was fine and the via ferrata cable is there, although it still looks like it is killing some trees. It is worth dropping a rope above mitre crack for belaying. This works well if you are doing a few routes on that wall as you can abb down and avoid the chose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descent off the top was fine and the via ferrata cable is there, although it still looks like it is killing some trees. It is worth dropping a rope above mitre crack for belaying. This works well if you are doing a few routes on that wall as you can abb down and avoid the chose.
Andy Reeve 30 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Ooh Fiend! Lay off the poor route! Must disagree, gear didn't find to be fiddly at all, good nut right on time for the (albeit) crux, bit of a stretch but my mate (who lead the route) is a short arse and didn't grumble at all. Nice moves and a good line imo.
 
Show beta
βeta: Ooh Fiend! Lay off the poor route! Must disagree, gear didn't find to be fiddly at all, good nut right on time for the (albeit) crux, bit of a stretch but my mate (who lead the route) is a short arse and didn't grumble at all. Nice moves and a good line imo.
Chris the Tall 2 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom end E1 but very pleasant. The polish isn't an issue as long as your technique is up to scratch.
 
Show beta
βeta: Bottom end E1 but very pleasant. The polish isn't an issue as long as your technique is up to scratch.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 72
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Traverse

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wildcat)
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