UKC

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Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 24 June to 20 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.

Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
Well-protected climbing on pleasing holds, and understandably popular. Climb the crack, passing an overlap early on, to a finish up the final groove (a bit loose) at the left edge of the roof. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Dickinson 1972. FFA. Dave Knighton 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Northern Rock's Little Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
Shaun climbs 92 25 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Seconded this route previously and had no issues. Head fell off today but managed to downclimb and not take in gear get back in the zone and sent it great route
βeta?
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βeta: Seconded this route previously and had no issues. Head fell off today but managed to downclimb and not take in gear get back in the zone and sent it great route
C Witter 26 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose rock below and above top break...! Some of those blocks below the scoop are very hollow sounding and below that rock moves at the touch... that\'s not even to mention the choss in the scoop! Shame, as otherwise pleasant.
βeta?
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βeta: Some loose rock below and above top break...! Some of those blocks below the scoop are very hollow sounding and below that rock moves at the touch... that's not even to mention the choss in the scoop! Shame, as otherwise pleasant.
mattdarli92 14 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly block sounds like it's been wobbly for at least 5 years. Save your worry for the grime grabbing, mud munching top out!
βeta?
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βeta: Wobbly block sounds like it's been wobbly for at least 5 years. Save your worry for the grime grabbing, mud munching top out!
donkarlo 3 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I would like to claim E2 because that would mean I lead my first HVS, E1 and E2 in a day but it definitely didn't feel it. Superb route though.
βeta?
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βeta: I would like to claim E2 because that would mean I lead my first HVS, E1 and E2 in a day but it definitely didn't feel it. Superb route though.
Dan-gerMouse 21 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not an E2, but nice idea for a tick list i guess! E1, 5b - great route, technical and requires bit of foot manouvery! get on it!
βeta?
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βeta: Not an E2, but nice idea for a tick list i guess! E1, 5b - great route, technical and requires bit of foot manouvery! get on it!
r0b 10 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I don't like loose holds so did the route without using the big rattly one - don't think it really increased the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: I don't like loose holds so did the route without using the big rattly one - don't think it really increased the grade.
Mick 9 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, E1 5B my mistake!
βeta?
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βeta: Yes, E1 5B my mistake!
Mick 4 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not E2 but a superb route, well worth doing, soft touch E1 5A?
βeta?
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βeta: Not E2 but a superb route, well worth doing, soft touch E1 5A?

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 76
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 119
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Necromicon

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Pinfold Quarry)

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