Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
Well-protected climbing on pleasing holds, and understandably popular. Climb the crack, passing an overlap early on, to a finish up the final groove (a bit loose) at the left edge of the roof. © Rockfax
FA. Colin Dickinson 1972. FFA. Dave Knighton 1976.
ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Northern Rock's Little Gems
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Shaun climbs 92 | 25 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Seconded this route previously and had no issues. Head fell off today but managed to downclimb and not take in gear get back in the zone and sent it great route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Seconded this route previously and had no issues. Head fell off today but managed to downclimb and not take in gear get back in the zone and sent it great route |
||||
C Witter | 26 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Some loose rock below and above top break...! Some of those blocks below the scoop are very hollow sounding and below that rock moves at the touch... that\'s not even to mention the choss in the scoop! Shame, as otherwise pleasant. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Some loose rock below and above top break...! Some of those blocks below the scoop are very hollow sounding and below that rock moves at the touch... that's not even to mention the choss in the scoop! Shame, as otherwise pleasant. |
||||
mattdarli92 | 14 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly block sounds like it's been wobbly for at least 5 years. Save your worry for the grime grabbing, mud munching top out! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wobbly block sounds like it's been wobbly for at least 5 years. Save your worry for the grime grabbing, mud munching top out! |
||||
donkarlo | 3 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I would like to claim E2 because that would mean I lead my first HVS, E1 and E2 in a day but it definitely didn't feel it. Superb route though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I would like to claim E2 because that would mean I lead my first HVS, E1 and E2 in a day but it definitely didn't feel it. Superb route though. |
||||
Dan-gerMouse | 21 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not an E2, but nice idea for a tick list i guess! E1, 5b - great route, technical and requires bit of foot manouvery! get on it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not an E2, but nice idea for a tick list i guess! E1, 5b - great route, technical and requires bit of foot manouvery! get on it! |
||||
r0b | 10 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I don't like loose holds so did the route without using the big rattly one - don't think it really increased the grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I don't like loose holds so did the route without using the big rattly one - don't think it really increased the grade. |
||||
Mick | 9 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yes, E1 5B my mistake! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Yes, E1 5B my mistake! |
||||
Mick | 4 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not E2 but a superb route, well worth doing, soft touch E1 5A? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not E2 but a superb route, well worth doing, soft touch E1 5A? |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Pinfold Quarry)