Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
Sustained and desperate and worth 7c+! Gain the hairline crack above the right-facing flake and follow it to the midway break. Step right and then back left, before moving up to a flake. Move back right and up. The route may have three peg runners. © Rockfax
FA. Mark Liptrot 1984.
Very good routes in the UK , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Definitive *** Lancs Grit
User | Date | Notes | ||
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hamer89 | 2 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Reccomend dropping a line to clip into for the steep mud bank at the top of the route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Reccomend dropping a line to clip into for the steep mud bank at the top of the route. |
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Andy Farnell | 13 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: At the break after the thin starting crack go up and right to the first peg, then step left (crux) using some small sharp crimps to the flake and second peg. From there the route goes right 2m to the last peg and then straight up to the top. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: At the break after the thin starting crack go up and right to the first peg, then step left (crux) using some small sharp crimps to the flake and second peg. From there the route goes right 2m to the last peg and then straight up to the top. |
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Graham Hoey | 27 Feb, 2003 |
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βeta: Is this description accurate? When I failed on it I was trying to gain the lefthans side of the upper face which seemed to be where the holds and pegs were. I tried going directly from the top of the thin crack and fell off, and by stepping right at the break going up a bit then trying to move back left, and fell off. Got fed up and bagged it. Are you sure it goes direct up the top wall after stepping right at the break? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Is this description accurate? When I failed on it I was trying to gain the lefthans side of the upper face which seemed to be where the holds and pegs were. I tried going directly from the top of the thin crack and fell off, and by stepping right at the break going up a bit then trying to move back left, and fell off. Got fed up and bagged it. Are you sure it goes direct up the top wall after stepping right at the break? |
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Grade: E6 6c ***
(Thorn Crag)